Anglo-Italian

[sargeinaz]

As @te0o says, not a big problem for me either. TBH, I find the martingala pockets more annoying as (because of the style, I know) they aren't really placed well for hands.

In other AIC news, I bought a pair of their washed cotton chinos (back on sale recently) and find them to be fine, I guess. But, for £330 they don't feel particularly amazing quality and the rise is a bit lower than I'd like. On the rise, in general, I find there's a difference between their RTW trousers and what the staff wear - or what is the perceived house style. Seems a bit odd.

I totally agree with this and have thought this for a while. The AIC guys all have suits with extended shoulders and high rise trousers and when I look at the sizing chart for the jackets they have room in the chest and waist, but fairly narrow shoulders for the tagged size (compared to let’s say Natalino which more on the extended side) and the trousers have a lower rise for the tagged size compared to what I see the AIC guys wear as well.

This is particularly apparent with Jake’s newer jackets and trousers which are definitely more extended in the shoulder and roomier as well as higher rise/roomier trousers than what he had a couple years ago.

 

[mina262]

I tend to size up and tailor the waist in a bit.

 

[dapperdan88]

I totally agree with this and have thought this for a while. The AIC guys all have suits with extended shoulders and high rise trousers and when I look at the sizing chart for the jackets they have room in the chest and waist, but fairly narrow shoulders for the tagged size (compared to let’s say Natalino which more on the extended side) and the trousers have a lower rise for the tagged size compared to what I see the AIC guys wear as well.

This is particularly apparent with Jake’s newer jackets and trousers which are definitely more extended in the shoulder and roomier as well as higher rise/roomier trousers than what he had a couple years ago.

I've been eyeing AIC but have hesitated for this very reason. Most of my wardrobe is MTM but the closest RTW size would be 50. According to the size chart the chest and waist have room but the shoulder measurement seems oddly small.

Does anyone have first hand experience with size comparisons between AIC and Spier & MacKay or Suitsupply? Most of my closet is S&M but I am familiar with SS sizing.

 

[jssdc]

First AIC MTM order on the way. Simple navy blazer in the house hopsack to start. Happy to post photos and impressions when it arrives.

 

[turned_up]

I totally agree with this and have thought this for a while. The AIC guys all have suits with extended shoulders and high rise trousers and when I look at the sizing chart for the jackets they have room in the chest and waist, but fairly narrow shoulders for the tagged size (compared to let’s say Natalino which more on the extended side) and the trousers have a lower rise for the tagged size compared to what I see the AIC guys wear as well.

This is particularly apparent with Jake’s newer jackets and trousers which are definitely more extended in the shoulder and roomier as well as higher rise/roomier trousers than what he had a couple years ago.

I have also observed that in Jake's recent (couple of years?) jackets and trousers. It would make sense that his are all AI bespoke rather than MTM, I mean, why not?
Sizing up is the way to go for MTM and RTW though as for both, the jacket sleeves are unfinished and the waist is easy to control. The only issue with RTW is the trouser back pockets where in a roomier pair they would limit how much you can have the waist taken in.
I wish they had kept their MTO programme for jackets...For those of us for whom their sizing works, it was excellent value for the product/service.

 

[sabmoll]

As @te0o says, not a big problem for me either. TBH, I find the martingala pockets more annoying as (because of the style, I know) they aren't really placed well for hands.

In other AIC news, I bought a pair of their washed cotton chinos (back on sale recently) and find them to be fine, I guess. But, for £330 they don't feel particularly amazing quality and the rise is a bit lower than I'd like. On the rise, in general, I find there's a difference between their RTW trousers and what the staff wear - or what is the perceived house style. Seems a bit odd.

Exactly my sentiment, unfortunately. I love their lookbooks and they are very kind online and instore but it's come to a point where I can neither justify their prices (330 for chinos that aren't all that special, same goes for their knitwear and shirts) nor have the patience for their lack of quality control (shirts with wildly varying body/sleeve measurements, tailoring that fluctuates from season to season, overall impression of a make that leaves room for improvement given their price point (and "made in Italy" is not something that overcomes these inconsistencies for me).
As also stated in this thread already, in store they often recommend sizes/fits that are on the slim side, while all the staff is dressed in these very relaxed and louche fitting house style clothes.

 

[nabass]

Would folks still recommend the AI chinos or have any other RTW suggestions? I'm looking for flat front, smart casual. AI and Armoury are top on my list currently. I'm in the US (and not NYC) so wanted somewhere it's feasible to do online / by mail. And if the chinos work out would also want some dress pants.

 

[turned_up]

Would folks still recommend the AI chinos or have any other RTW suggestions? I'm looking for flat front, smart casual. AI and Armoury are top on my list currently. I'm in the US (and not NYC) so wanted somewhere it's feasible to do online / by mail. And if the chinos work out would also want some dress pants.

Have you checked Rubato's officer's chino?

 

[nabass]

Have you checked Rubato's officer's chino?

I actually was just looking into those. Any thoughts on how they compare? From the pics / measurements look a little wider fit than I was thinking, but it's a little hard to tell as there aren't many pics. They look nice though.

 

[Iskander]

I actually was just looking into those. Any thoughts on how they compare? From the pics / measurements look a little wider fit than I was thinking, but it's a little hard to tell as there aren't many pics. They look nice though.

They do fit quite wide and the material has an odd sheen to it FYI

 

[turned_up]

I actually was just looking into those. Any thoughts on how they compare? From the pics / measurements look a little wider fit than I was thinking, but it's a little hard to tell as there aren't many pics. They look nice though.

They are comfortable and the rise is medium to high, depending always on what you are used to. Higher than AI but lower than Casatlantic. The hem is also relatively wide but not like the workwear-style chinos you see out there.

The sheen is due to the cotton being mercerized (ie treated). You can read online about it but from my experience with those, it seems to make it durable and somewhat less susceptible to stains although I do find that the sheen effect seems to be reducing the more I wash them. I think there’s also an older review of them on Permanent Style.

 

[multiccy-csa]

Gents,
On the topic of coveralls, i have long weighed up the pros/cons of emerald green vs 'Barbour sage' green variants, while i believe a chap here once commented there were in fact coveralls in three different shades of green. I currently have the emerald and though it looks beautiful when wearing around the house (as you do), outdoors, particularly if the sun dare come out, i fear it is just a little too loud (and/or perhaps too emerald..?), and so was considering moving it on and replacing it with one of the other quieter varieties. Does anyone have a comparison shot of all three?
I suspect there is a 'long coverall' in one shade, and then shorter versions in emerald and the other green....but at this point my mind boggles.
Thank you all.

 

[VinnyDinny]

I actually was just looking into those. Any thoughts on how they compare? From the pics / measurements look a little wider fit than I was thinking, but it's a little hard to tell as there aren't many pics. They look nice though.

I have AIC and Rubato chinos and find they're kind of as you'd expect given the brands. AIC are pretty standard, unremarkable, very soft material, not too wide, but easily wearable. Rubato are much stiffer material (more Japanese/workwear), wider, and more of a look (especially given the pockets). I like them both but tend to wear AIC's to the office and Rubato's more with denim shirts, M-65, etc...