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Anderson & Sheppard cut open.

bengal-stripe

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This is (actually was) a conventional constructed Savile Row suit:


AndersonSheppard006.jpg

Suit made by A&S in 1997

AndersonSheppard001.jpg

Pad-stitching inside lapel

AndersonSheppard002.jpg

Chest piece and shoulder padding

AndersonSheppard003.jpg

Collar and lapel

AndersonSheppard004.jpg

Shoulder seam (hand stitched)

AndersonSheppard005.jpg

Sleeve seam (hand stitched)

AndersonSheppard007.jpg

Lapel underside (It doesn't show, but the underside is far more dimpled than a lapel made with a blindstrich machine.)

This is a totally handmade suit.

The only sewing machine used is a conventional straight lockstitch machine. They also used an over locker to finish the cut edge of the trouser seam allowance (inside the leg). At one time that finish would have been done by hand. The pad stitching inside the jacket is not particular fine (I've seen much neater made garments), but perhaps that accounts for the famous A&S softness.
 

itsstillmatt

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Great pics Bengal. The looseness padstitching is very similar to that in my Rubinaccis which I will not be taking apart but have obviously seen in fittings at the shop. In that, I assume that you are correct about the softness.
 

rnoldh

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Originally Posted by iammatt
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Great pics Bengal. The looseness padstitching is very similar to that in my Rubinaccis which I will not be taking apart but have obviously seen in fittings at the shop. In that, I assume that you are correct about the softness.


You are passing up a great opportunity to show that Rubinacci has more hand work than a Kiton.

Why not get identical jackets made when you get a Rubinacci. One to wear and one to tear apart
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Panzeraxe II

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Originally Posted by iammatt
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Great pics Bengal. The looseness padstitching is very similar to that in my Rubinaccis which I will not be taking apart but have obviously seen in fittings at the shop. In that, I assume that you are correct about the softness.


I don't believe you - I have heard Rubinacci is a machine-made garment (in Hong Kong). Please tear apart your jacket and prove your statement above.
 

Will

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Originally Posted by Panzeraxe II
I don't believe you - I have heard Rubinacci is a machine-made garment (in Hong Kong). Please tear apart your jacket and prove your statement above.

I believe you are confusing Matt's coats with Rubinacci's "R" line of sportswear which is fused and machine sewn in China.
 

LSeca

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A little off-topic here, but why does the date read 18/03/97? Does the 18 part signify the week the jacket was made?
 

tonylumpkin

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Originally Posted by LSeca
A little off-topic here, but why does the date read 18/03/97? Does the 18 part signify the week the jacket was made?
18th day of March 1997. Sorry. Will got it in first.
 

Omegablogger

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Originally Posted by Will
It's the date the jacket was completed in Euro format. 18 March 1997.

As an aside I was in the US a while back and went to the bank to cash a cheque. The cashier told me I had written the date wrong, I said I hadn't, she said I had and so on. The impasse was finally broken when I informed her that we had dates before she even had a country...she accepted the cheque.
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Faded501s

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
SF is clearly gripped by madness at the moment, but we really should add all these pics to the Wiki or something. I'm finding them very informative, and I'd hate to see them lost with the passage of time.

+1. I even have an old Hagar I'd be willing to sacrifice for the project
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MilanoStyle

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
SF is clearly gripped by madness at the moment, but we really should add all these pics to the Wiki or something. I'm finding them very informative, and I'd hate to see them lost with the passage of time.

+1. Someone, please open up Brioni, Isaia, Attolini, Saint Andrew (PRPL) suits and post the pictures. Consumers have rights to know what they are buying.
 

Tarmac

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Originally Posted by LabelKing
Can these suits be patched up after they have been opened up?

Seems rather a shame.


well someone has to take one for the team

*stepping back*
 

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