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And suddenly appeared my first jantzen shirt! pics

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wicozani, Jun 7, 2004.

  1. wicozani

    wicozani Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2004
    Location:
    The Black Hills of South Dakota
    This past Friday I received my first Jantzen shirt from Hong Kong. I've finally had a chance to wash and iron it and am wearing it today. [​IMG] I'm very pleased with the quality. The fabric is Stripes #330, and I intended for this to be worn primarily as a sport shirt. However, I think it will also work with a nice solid blue tie and possibly other colors as well. I'm wearing a tie just to show how it looks with a tie, though I wouldn't wear the tie shown (i.e., I have no solid blue tie at the moment). [​IMG] The stitching and pattern matching are all excellent. The fabric is a silky Italian 120's two-ply. The color is not quite as shown on the Jantzen website. My monitor shows a range of blues, from sky to turquoise blue. There is actually very little true blue but rather a melange of purple-blue and blue-grey. I still like it a lot. The buttons are very nice Trocas shell and are hand-sewn. I requested side pleats for the back and here is a picture of the back. [​IMG] These were the measurements I submitted: Shirt Length: 29 Chest: 40.5 Waist: 33 Hip: 33 Shoulder: 18 Sleeve: 35.5 Neck: 16.25 Height: 5ft. 11 1/2 in. Weight: 184 lbs. Wrist Size: 7.5 inch Special for Thicker Watch: Left Hand 1/4" Bigger Shirt Fitting: Form (4"-6" Allowance) Shape of Shoulder: Regular Shape of Body: Normal Material: Stripes #330 Collar Style: #A3, (Long Semi Spread) Tie Space: 1/8" (Standard) Back Height: 1 1/2" (Normal) Stitching for Collar and Cuff: 1/4" (Our Standard) Collar Point: 3" (Long) Cuff Style: Single Cuff #5S (Round Double Button) Contract Collar: Self Collar & Cuff Cuff Height: 2 3/4" (Standard) Pocket Style: No. 2 no flap (Diamond) Front Placket: French Front with Stitching Width of Placket: 1 1/2" (Standard) Select one: With Sleeves Extra Button Shirt Tail: Regular Shoulder Pleat: Side Pleat Select One: With Split Yoke Buttons: Gray 3.4mm thickness Trocas Buttons Monogram Style: Inside Yoke #21 Other: I also requested higher cut armholes. So, what does everyone think? At first I thought that it fit me too tightly, but I've been wearing it all morning and it don't find it constricting at all. I am thinking about ordering the collar points a little longer (3 1/4") and the shoulder width a little wider (3/4"). Also, in reading it seemed like most first-timers wish they had ordered their sleeves a little longer. Therefore, I ordered mine 1/4" longer than I usually wear, and they appear spot on. Do they appear a little long to your eyes? Finally, I'm thinking I'll go with a plain back (no pleats) and yoke next time. Thanks for any and all of your thoughts. I'm already looking forward to having Ricky make up a shirt for me out of this fabric: HTML a href=" http://www.jantzentailor.com/checkers451.htm ">Page a > [/quote] Thanks in advance for your comments and ideas. Regards, Jeff H.
     
  2. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,686
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2004
    I think that it fits well except for the shoulders, which should be at least 3/4" wider and you measured your hips wrong as well. You should measure them at the hip bone -- this would be at about the pubic bone height. I'm guessing your hips are only moderately more narrow than your chest. The shirt will fit better with a correct hip measurement, trust me.

    The collar looks good to me -- but that fabric, whoa that's bright.

    What do the trocas buttons look like? Are they white or yellow? Also, what does everyone think about side pleats? Is it better to go pleatless or with the side pleats?

    BTW, do one more single shirt order with corrected measurements before ordering a batch. A change in the shoulder measurement could affect arm length even if you don't change the arm measurement.
     
  3. wicozani

    wicozani Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2004
    Location:
    The Black Hills of South Dakota
    Thanks for your reply. The Trocas buttons on my shirt are a dark grey, almost like a black mother-of-pearl. They are very nice. Also, I must take back my assessment of the color, made while sitting beneath fluorescent lights. I've just returned from lunch and there is plenty of nice blues in the fabric.

    I agree that I mis-measured my hips. Indeed, the tightest fit in the whole shirt is around my hips, but even then it is not too bad. How will ordering with a wider hip measurement affect the appearance of the shirt above the waist? Finally, yes, I agree with you that I should order one more single with revised measurements before ordering a batch. Thanks again and take care.

    Regards,

    Jeff
     
  4. tdial

    tdial Senior member

    Messages:
    248
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2004
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    I agree that the shoulders are a bit too narrow. I'd say they are a full inch to an inch and a half too narrow. The sleeve length is perfect, from what I see.

    The collar length is also fine, in my opinion.

    I also agree that the bottom of the shirt looks a bit too snug, but just slightly.

    Make those adjustments and I'd say you have it perfect.
     
  5. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

    Messages:
    2,686
    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2004
    By widening the hip measurement, I think that the shirt will fall better over the belt line. This is simply because of how the shirt will be tapered -- the angles will be more natural and the shirt should actually even hug your body better/more comfortably.

    What color are the nature colored trocas going to be? Are trocas just like MOPs?
     
  6. AlanC

    AlanC Senior member

    Messages:
    7,805
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    Location:
    Heart of America
    I love the fabric, very Jermyn Street. My preference would have been no pocket and double cuffs, but then again, it's not my shirt. Obligatory ernest comment, with that belt, you must be a gypsy or gangster. [​IMG]
     
  7. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Looks much better than I expected that fabric to look. [​IMG] Very nice; of course there are the fit issues mentioned, mainly the shoulders should go out 1" and then adjust sleeve length. I saw my uncle's Jantzen shirts (I posted his HK trip photos a while back) and they are very nice. I notice a bit of the under sleeve bagginess though. I think I will send him a shirt that fits me perfectly but is just too cheesy to continue wearing, for him to work from.
     
  8. discostu004

    discostu004 Senior member Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
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    Apr 5, 2004
    Location:
    7,908 Feet, Colorado
    pretty cool, but then again, i like bright loud items. i would think it'd look really cool with a jacket on where it shows just a part of it (subdue it). pretty cool though.
     
  9. brescd01

    brescd01 Senior member

    Messages:
    543
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2004
  10. vero_group

    vero_group Senior member

    Messages:
    506
    Joined:
    May 16, 2003
    Agree the shoulders are too narrow.

    Now I'm going to try to guess where Jeff H. lives based on the background of the photos: New Mexico?
     
  11. regularjoe

    regularjoe Senior member

    Messages:
    276
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    Feb 2, 2004
    Their email correspondance is iffy at best. You're better off with a phone call from what I hear.
     
  12. Tom

    Tom Senior member

    Messages:
    274
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    Jan 6, 2004
    Location:
    Berkeley, California
    I like the shirt, but the posture must go. I reccomend that you find yourself a good chiropractor that specializes in posture and schedule a visit. Poor posture can negatively impact virtually every function of the nervous system, and also impacts looks. Good posture is good health and has the added benefit of helping you cut a dashing figure in your new shirt. This public service health announcement by Tom (the chiropractor) [​IMG]
     
  13. jcusey

    jcusey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,802
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    Apr 24, 2003
    I can't add anything to what others have said about the fit of the shirt, but I really do like the fabric. Bold stripes are the best. Well, not the best, but still pretty good.
     
  14. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 5, 2002
    Location:
    New York City
    Really? Ricky usually gets back to me same night or next day at most. Also, I was very skeptical ordering from them at first; in fact, I was the first person on this board to ever order from them, think about how scary that would have been. Reguardless, they are very reliable and I don't think anyone has ever run into a problem with them.

    BTW, I placed an order with them 2 weeks ago for the most expensive Jantzen shirt to date, a $58 linen shirt.
     
  15. AlanC

    AlanC Senior member

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    Location:
    Heart of America
    Do tell about the linen shirt. I've looked but not seen linen listed. Is it white?
     
  16. j

    j Senior member Admin

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    Linen. Oh jeez.. let's hear it.
     
  17. brescd01

    brescd01 Senior member

    Messages:
    543
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2004
    Thank you for the advice. My issue is not trust, I have no doubt I will get a shirt I send, back, and that my shirts will be decent. But my issue is that there are innumerable little problems and questions that go along with any internet order and I am not comfortable initiating a transaction until I have found a reliable route of communication. The possibility remains that Ricky's emails have been filtered out by my spam filters and I missed them. But until I solve this mystery I am hesitating.
     
  18. coatandthai

    coatandthai Senior member

    Messages:
    272
    Joined:
    May 7, 2004
    I just got my first Jantzen in the mail, and I never heard a peep from Ricky. I just placed my order, waited 3 weeks and there it was. It's a very nice dobby white with contrasting blue stitch buttonholes. Fits far better than most OTR.
     
  19. wicozani

    wicozani Active Member

    Messages:
    35
    Joined:
    Jun 7, 2004
    Location:
    The Black Hills of South Dakota
    Thanks for the comment. I live in the beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota. I also used to live in Santa Fe, NM back "in the day."

    Jeff
     
  20. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    New York City
    I'll let you all know how the linen shirt turns out. I'll even post some pics when I get it. It's black linen BTW.
     

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