Analysis: 6 tweed jackets. Tipping point(s) b/w "old man" mothball vs stylish/trendy?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Reevolving, Apr 22, 2011.

  1. Reevolving

    Reevolving Senior member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] Some of these jackets look decidedly OLD, while others, not as much. Why? To start, SF trolls, please just buzz off now, and find other people to annoy and disturb. I'm looking forward to some constructive analysis and resolution. Let's articulate some of the differences in these 6 jackets, and assess what impact is has. Also, let's not discount the role of context.... To start, some questions to consider:
    1. Does wearing jeans change the perception? (#1)
    2. Is it the open chest / button stance? (3 button vs 2 button)
    3. Does lack of tie make it more youthful?
    4. Can waist suppression overcome an "old" pattern?
    5. Does the size of the check/pattern play a role?
    6. How about the pose? Hand in pocket? Human vs. mannequin?
    7. If the model is under 40, does the jacket loooks less old? (#1's face is partly visible)
    8. Do the height of the buttons have any impact .... ?
    9. Body type: Model is skinny. If he had a pot belly, the whole look would be different.
    10. Camera angle? (#4)
    I have many comments, but will start off with only a few: #1 is wool, but it doesn't really look like a stiff wool jacket. Loose and floppy plays into this. #5 was included b/c it's solid. It looks light and summery, and not mothballish. Patterns add to the old man effect. #6. Does the "corpse" pose make it look older? What if #6 was posing like #1 (and with jeans....) Thanks in advance for some thoughtful observations & analysis...
     
  2. alliswell

    alliswell Senior member

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    I'd rank them 6,5,1,2,4,3.

    #6 looks the best because it has the softest, best fitting shoulder, the trimmest waist, the highest gorge and the shortest length.

    #3 looks oldest because it has the strongest shoulder (roped), it's blocky, the collar is too long and the pockets, collar tab and other details are very country.

    You can see the others morph from young to old in the order I've indicated as the details turn from 6 to 3.
     
  3. ohdannyboy

    ohdannyboy Senior member

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    No troll, but i dont' see 3 or 4; also, big fan of #5 for just the reason you said; it looks light, spring-y and comfortable
     
  4. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Senior member

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    2/3/4 look used car salesman/frumpy to me. I don't think younger people look good in gold/yellow tones unless there is a strong faded or greyish component to them. I think 6 is the "tipping point" here.
     
  5. gladhands

    gladhands Senior member

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    #3 looks oldest because it has the strongest shoulder (roped), it's blocky, the collar is too long and the pockets, collar tab and other details are very country.


    Leather buttons, son. Leather buttons.
     
  6. NewYorkIslander

    NewYorkIslander Affiliate Vendor

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    its a very fine line thats tread here. Firstly, its about the confidence that the wearer has in the jacket, probably the most important thing. If you feel like an old man in it, you will look like one. Second, I think the quarters can make a jacket look much more "hip". The more open, the hipper. Lastly, yes, in the pics you provided the wearer can make a jacket look one way or another. The tweeds done up all waspy, look very old manish, the ones in dark denim, look more hip. Last thing is the cut of the coat...the shorter and the more silhouetted they are the more hip they are. Hope that helps.

    Also, please note that jacket number one simply doesn't fit the wearer. More silhouetted doesn't mean tighter.
     
  7. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    I think 5 and 2 are younger. the model doesn't help with #1, but it's still workable. #3 is the obviously dated one with the padded shoulders, squared off sleeve heads, leather buttons, low pockets, etc.
     
  8. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    1/2/3/4 want burning both for style and (non) fit.

    5/6 OK with jeans for informal affairs/cleaning the car etc.
     
  9. DerekS

    DerekS Guyliner

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    Let me preface this by saying that i REALLY like tweed jackets. A lot. I think the key (obviously) to pulling off a tweed jacket without looking like grandpa is fit. I have a tweed with leather buttons that COULD look very old mannish....but the arms are incredibly slim, waist is supressed quite a bit, and the notch in the lapels are very high. It looks best with dark denim because the slimness and its a bit shorter than most of my sportcoats.

    Personally I just dont like 3 button jackets so its hard for me to make any unbiased opinion on them...they almost always look bad...to me.

    NYR hit it on the head as well.....other than fit, confidence is key. I wear a bowtie with my tweeds sometimes....and ive never once felt like a grandpa.
     
  10. Master Squirrel

    Master Squirrel Senior member

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    I'd wear 2,4,5. (if they fit)s.

    start, some questions to consider:

    1. Does wearing jeans change the perception? (#1)
    If you are not youthful and are trying to look youthful, you will look like an aging Baby-Boomer.

    2. Is it the open chest / button stance? (3 button vs 2 button)
    I prefer 3-button, but that's my take.

    3. Does lack of tie make it more youthful?
    No.

    4. Can waist suppression overcome an "old" pattern?
    No. Colors and patterns come and go. I can find you some men's tweed with hot pink and teal flecks in it.

    5. Does the size of the check/pattern play a role?
    It does, but if you are referring to age suppression... I cannot help

    6. How about the pose? Hand in pocket? Human vs. mannequin?
    Are you photographing for sale of said items?

    7. If the model is under 40, does the jacket loooks less old? (#1's face is partly visible)
    People will look at the model first, jacket later.

    8. Do the height of the buttons have any impact .... ?
    Yes. 100% Are you trying to start a clothing line?
     
  11. Barnabus

    Barnabus Senior member

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    I like 2 and 5 the best. Wouldnt wear the other ones
     
  12. VelvetGreen

    VelvetGreen Senior member

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    Here's my two cents as a tweed afficionado. The following are just a few thoughts. There are many kinds of tweed jacket, from the traditional heavy fitted 'suiting jacket' (like 4), 'fashion' tweed (1...kind of...), through to field jackets, hacking jackets (usually in a heavy tweed designed for pushing your way through brambles), and things that look like 'tweedigans' (2) or gamekeeper's clothing. The old man factor is somewhat dependent on context. What was designed to be functional clothing for the British countryside will look out of place in the city, for starters. It will look fuddy duddy when somebody tries to turn it into a fashion jacket (...I don't like the look of 6). You can wear them with jeans, but really, it should be moleskins or needlecords to avoid looking like an arriviste. Two button tweed jackets have the problem of making you look like a pot bellied sergeant major. I can't pin it down, but for me, showing too much shirted chest in a garment designed for the countryside is an incongruity. Which is why you find them on old men who like to give the impression they are still sons of the soil, but prefer the club bar to the field. Houndstooth dates badly, and does not give as much structure as a bold check. I prefer the latter. Leather buttons are rather quaint, IMHO. Cordings have the right idea when it comes to these jackets, I think.
     
  13. Reevolving

    Reevolving Senior member

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    8. Do the height of the buttons have any impact .... ? Yes. 100% Are you trying to start a clothing line?
    Can you comment on the buttons of the above 6 jackets?
     
  14. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    [​IMG]
    #6 looks the best fitwise and stylewise. No fit issues anywhere as far as I can see. Get it pressed properly and you'll be good.
     
  15. JakeLA

    JakeLA Senior member

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    #6 looks the best fitwise and stylewise. No fit issues anywhere as far as I can see. Get it pressed properly and you'll be good.

    These aren't photos of the OP wearing the various jackets; they're just photos he pulled off the net.
     

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