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Many thanks, gents. I've been reading, learning from and respecting DW's posts on SF for many years now. I was surprised he hadn't been interviewed online. Magazine articles and videos have a sad tendency to disappear sooner or later when added online, blog posts are much more enduring in this sense. The virtual form does not change listed opinions and personal histories, DW's text will remain as it is as long as Keikari lives.
I still have around two dozen older interviews to add and several pending ones. If you'd like to have a cordwainer, tailor, specialized maker, writer or such interviewed, please contact me and I will make it so. Menswear is all about learning, inspiring and sharing.
^I'll be writing about it next week. Trouble is, DW's posts are scattered all around SF and it'll take a long time to search and compare differing opinios. Gemming has its backers and opposers, I'm trying to come up with a post that will look at the pros and cons in a non-biased way. I'm against gemming in principle, but I've never had a pair broke down due to its failings. The glues in use today are strong and the method has been favoured for a long time now. If you have any links of in-depth posts to share, I'd be delighted.
^I'll be writing about it next week. Trouble is, DW's posts are scattered all around SF and it'll take a long time to search and compare differing opinios. Gemming has its backers and opposers, I'm trying to come up with a post that will look at the pros and cons in a non-biased way. I'm against gemming in principle, but I've never had a pair broke down due to its failings. The glues in use today are strong and the method has been favoured for a long time now. If you have any links of in-depth posts to share, I'd be delighted.
I may have a contact for you. He has an inside man in Austro-Hungarian shoemaking, offering truly handmade shoes.
I'm not even sure where my posts on the subject are. That said...and I won't attempt a rehash of everything here...I will say this: Much of what you say is probably correct but I don't think that anyone on this forum has ever worn a pair of Goodyear welted shoes hard.
As a bootmaker I see (or did when I was repairing) both shoes and boots worn day after day in desert heat, rainforest wet, mud, volcanic grit, barnyard acids, oil and gasoline, and subject to just plain everyday inattention and abuse. "Rode hard and put up wet." And really, that's not only the norm for most footwear, it is the expected norm.
Because those are exactly the kinds of conditions that shoes evolved to deal with. I have no doubt (never did) that people who wear their shoes in controlled environments, mostly on carpets on the odd Monday, and who tree and condition and polish and pamper and coo over them will never see the gemming fail...and if they do, either not recognize what has happened or care. And because the customer never sees the down and dirty business of repairing the shoe...never sees what's underneath that outsole with a hole in it...they don't ever think about the consequences or make the connections about the inherent weaknesses that Goodyear welting and gemming bring to the process..
But I have. And as a shoemaker, intimately knowing both the consequences and the alternatives, I can't find it in myself to excuse a product that has so lost its sense of purpose and place and become so attenuated that it's almost non-functional in the real world. Nevermind the fact that Goodyear welted shoes are posing as/pretending to be something they are not; or that both the mechanics and the essence of quality and skill are, by default, deprecated to the point where such concepts begin have no meaning in contemporary society.
The fact that Goodyear welted shoes are now so divorced from their roots that they must be returned to the factory in order to be restored (a job that a skilled repairman in every neighborhood could have done in years past) begs several questions:
Isn't it convenient for the manufacturer to have a captive audience so dependent on their singular product and services? That's the crucial impact/import of "marketing"--that no one questions it. So is it the shoe you're buying or the marketing?
What happens to the footbed...so essential for long term comfort and foot health...that a good shoe develops with wear? Or have both customer and maker so abandoned reasonable expectations...along with quality leather for the insoles...that the idea of objective quality becomes meaningless--style trumping substance.
What happens to the concept of "quality?" What happens to the skilled workers? The human resources?
What happens to the skills themselves? The knowledge?
And yes, you can spend almost any imaginable amount of money to insure you are acquiring quality. But esp. if quality is your primary goal there are literally hundreds of makers who can give you bespoke quality for not much more than all the endless clones and ticky-tacky currently being marketed as RTW.
How does the very concept of "Style" square with endlessly repetitive iterations of the same-old-same-thing ?
Because when you come down to it the issue is not whether Goodyear welting/gemming has any objective value relative to accessibility or affordability or even utility...despite everything that is sacrificed in its implementation...but rather, in light of the alternatives, whether it deserves to be held up as an exemplar of quality much less as desirable for those seeking quality. Especially in a milieu where paragons-of-the-exceptional meet and take tea together.
Oh, I could go on and on...as I'm sure you're aware...I've already formulated and lost half a dozen striking and important thoughts composing this post to this point. Because, admittedly, it's a complicated issue. But just because it's complicated is not reason enough, in my estimation, to avoid thinking about the subject. Or to pretend it isn't important.
Wasn't it Socrates who said "The unexamined life is not worth living."?
Let's hope, it's not handmade like that:
On the other hand, while I would want my inseaming stitches to be both closer together and better set in the insole than in the second set of photos, I nevertheless believe it is better...much better...than gemming.
Where are these pictures from?