An Interview with B&Tailor

[WDTodd]

Although I've yet to have a suit made at B&Tailor, I have visited and of course, left impressed. The interview was a very good one, Claghorn. Thank you. In the future, if you need any help with translation from Korean into English, I'd be happy to help.

 

[Claghorn]

I would go to London if the final prices are similar than the prices they are offering at the moment.

Many thanks for your help Claghorn.

Unfortunately, this won't happen. They were seriously considering it, but between Australia, Singapore and Hong Kong, and moving into a new location, they felt they had enough on their plate this year. It may happen late 2015 though. I know it's something they'd like to do at some point. TTO put a positive spin on it: at least they were more concerned with maintaining quality than with expansion.

Given their prices, and the number of trips they'd want to make (they aren't comfortable with anything less than two fittings and would prefer four for new clients), the number of pieces they need is a lot (40+). And the would be impossible to do in 3 days. They just aren't ready to do it right

Doesn't NSM charge comparable prices? I wonder how many pieces they need to get commissioned to turn a profit.

Although I've yet to have a suit made at B&Tailor, I have visited and of course, left impressed. The interview was a very good one, Claghorn. Thank you. In the future, if you need any help with translation from Korean into English, I'd be happy to help.

Thanks! You absolutely should get a suit or a jacket from them. The father, in particular, is wonderful to work with. Very, very gracious and warm.

 

[Penfold]

Do they plan come to Hong Kong? Looked around their websites but can't see anything. Thanks in advance to anyone who knows anything.

I've already had Y William Yu attempt an homage to a B& Tailor suit from a photograph (that's going about as well as you'd expect

). Given that I'm living only a few hundred yards away from Chan I guess I could go there but every time I see a B& Tailor piece... well, it moves.

One question - how does this Liverano cut work on bigger, Western frames? I'm dieting at the moment and if I reach my goals then I get to reward myself with lots of new commissions (thus also incentivising me to stay thin) - but even if I get there I'm going to be 6' 1", square-shouldered, barrel-chested and definitely quite unlike any of the slender and sleek chaps in all the photos. There's a nagging worry that the more natural shoulder and particularly the open quarters will not flatter my body shape. On the other hand these guys are clearly masters of the fit (though they might not have too much experience with the rugby-player build) and that's 90% of the battle.

Budget flights from HK to Seoul and a fly-in, fly-out approach to fittings are always the fallback plan.

 

[Claghorn]

There is a decently sized difference between their Australian prices and their local prices. Depending on how much they charge in HK, it may be almost as economical to fly in a few times (not to mention more fun).

Anyway, I don't know when they plan on going to HK, only that they mentioned that they were going to start going their and Singapore at the end of the year. You might email them to ask; the younger brother generally responds very quickly.

In terms of frame, I have no idea. But Liverano (from which much of B&T's cut is modeled) looks alright on Ethan, and he's a bit heavy set.

 

[Penfold]

Thanks @Claghorn - I shall email them. It's a slippery slope from here on - pushing off from simply lurking on the boards, gathering momentum down past enquiring emails and well-I-might-just-drop-in-since-I'm-passing-how-does-the-eleventh-sound? and on further towards the nadir, where I'm standing on a street in Seoul taking a call from Mastercard who are just the tiniest bit upset that I've just tried to spend the thick end of eight figures in KRW in one hit and won't take "but you should see the angle of the shoulder seams" as an excuse.

I've seen Ethan around in Hong Kong a couple of times and would agree that, although our mothers could doubtless tell us apart, he would probably fit into my coats, not that he'd want to. Maybe I'm just seeing what I want to see but the smaller shoulders and open quarters on his Liverano coat don't lend themselves to deceiving the eye re: bulk in the midships region (neither does 3-r-2 perhaps). Of course it's still a beautiful piece which he wears well, and the camera probably adds a few lbs too. It just doesn't make me want to go to the trouble of developing a relationship with a tailor that is seven hours away from my front door when I have Chan et al. within fifteen minutes.

But if I shed thirty-five lbs... to be continued.

 

[tchoy]



Do they plan come to Hong Kong? Looked around their websites but can't see anything. Thanks in advance to anyone who knows anything.

I've already had Y William Yu attempt an homage to a B& Tailor suit from a photograph (that's going about as well as you'd expect 

).  Given that I'm living only a few hundred yards away from Chan I guess I could go there but every time I see a B& Tailor piece... well, it moves. 

One question - how does this Liverano cut work on bigger, Western frames?  I'm dieting at the moment and if I reach my goals then I get to reward myself with lots of new commissions (thus also incentivising me to stay thin) - but even if I get there I'm going to be 6' 1", square-shouldered, barrel-chested and definitely quite unlike any of the slender and sleek chaps in all the photos.  There's a nagging worry that the more natural shoulder and particularly the open quarters will not flatter my body shape.  On the other hand these guys are clearly masters of the fit (though they might not have too much experience with the rugby-player build) and that's 90% of the battle.

Budget flights from HK to Seoul and a fly-in, fly-out approach to fittings are always the fallback plan.

The trunk show dates have been announced here. Most tailors doing trunk show will charge slightly more their home base. You have to consider the travailing and hotel accommodation expenses.

You should not worry about too much about how the Bntailor will suit you or not. The point of going bespoke is to get a fit that suits our body shape and everyone is different. If a tailor knows what they are doing they'll make you look good.

http://subskin.tumblr.com/post/90445598712

 

[jedwards]

Not to disagree with you Tchoy, but I just want to add a different perspective from your statement here:

You should not worry about too much about how the Bntailor will suit you or not. The point of going bespoke is to get a fit that suits our body shape and everyone is different. If a tailor knows what they are doing they'll make you look good.

There is not much point in going to well known tailors if you just want a generic, unremarkable suit without that tailor's particular signature touches.... Might as well just go your local tailor and save on the difference?

In my view potential customers should be asking themselves "do I like this tailor's signature style?"

If you are just going to SR / Naples / Liverano or even BT because it's 'cool' on SF but then not accepting any of that tailor's signature touches, making everything more conservative and mainstream at the pattern making and basting stage... what's the point in producing a suit that looks like any other?

 

[Claghorn]

Well in the case of B&T, at that price, the quality is probably better than any of its nearby competition.

Though I am acting on your advice for my next jacket

 

[tchoy]



Not to disagree with you Tchoy, but I just want to add a different perspective from your statement here:

You should not worry about too much about how the Bntailor will suit you or not. The point of going bespoke is to get a fit that suits our body shape and everyone is different. If a tailor knows what they are doing they'll make you look good.

There is not much point in going to well known tailors if you just want a generic, unremarkable suit without that tailor's particular signature touches.... Might as well just go your local tailor and save on the difference?

In my view potential customers should be asking themselves "do I like this tailor's signature style?"

If you are just going to SR / Naples / Liverano or even BT because it's 'cool' on SF but then not accepting any of that tailor's signature touches, making everything more conservative and mainstream at the pattern making and basting stage... what's the point in producing a suit that looks like any other?

Of course that is very important you have to like the house style to begin with. I don't think Bntailor or Liverano would change their house style just because you are bigger built. What I am trying to say is to the OP is most tailors would work around the bodies shape that we have to make us look good.

My good friend Ethan is prime example with his Liverano suits, he looks very good in them and clearly show a good tailor can makes you looks slim.

 

[jedwards]



Of course that is very important you have to like the house style to begin with. I don't think Bntailor or Liverano would change their house style just because you are bigger built. What I am trying to say is to the OP is most tailors would work around the bodies shape that we have to make us look good.

My good friend Ethan is prime example with his Liverano suits, he looks very good in them and clearly show a good tailor can makes you looks slim.

Fair point, but even just looking through his tumblr, his weight and build seems to change a lot.

I wouldn't recommend someone who is thinking about going bespoke for the first time but still with yo-yo weight go bespoke.

Even if you move up or down a trouser size, it can be a pain to get alterations done. With significant gain either way on your top half, the jacket may become almost un-serviceable.

It's always best to have a stable weight before getting bespoke done. (Or at least happy and accepting of your current weight).

I see Ethan is leaving the armoury on Tumblr which is a shame as he has done a lot of educating through his website and theirs.

 

[tchoy]

Here's an interview of Joe Ha aka incontro who works with Bntailor.

http://violamilano.com/the-journal/post/133624005142/interview-with-joe-ha/

 

[Cleav]



Here's an interview of Joe Ha aka incontro who works with Bntailor.

http://violamilano.com/the-journal/post/133624005142/interview-with-joe-ha/

Excellent, thanks tchoy

 

[hippotamus]

Heard they were in HK for trunkshow, wonder how did it turn out ?

 

[BespokeKiwi]

Here's an interview of Joe Ha aka incontro who works with Bntailor.

http://violamilano.com/the-journal/post/133624005142/interview-with-joe-ha/

@tchoy
- Thanks. Like many at SF, I've always admired your consistent good fits and looks.

- I'm grateful to @Claghorn and you for the introduction to B&Tailors and their fitter/agent Joe Ha.
- Especially, as Joe Ha -- when located down under in Australia -- is more easily accessible to me in New Zealand; than my Hong Kong Tailor who doesn't do trunk show tours down under.
- I shall be getting in touch with Joe Ha in early 2015 for a personal consult and some new commissions, once my present work in progress new commissions -- from my Hong Kong tailor -- have been successfully completed.

BK


Edit: Typos corrected.

 

[BespokeKiwi]

@Claghorn
- Thanks for starting this B&Tailor interview thread (a good read) and introducing B&Tailors, the source behind many of your consistent good fits. Much appreciated.

- Best wishes for the upcoming move back to the states, which I expect will be a real "culture shock" for Mrs C. and you after your time in the SK.

BK