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An informed "What jeans should I buy?" thread.

Surfrider

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For some time now I've been reading the various "denim 101" resources (on both SF, and other fora), browsing other "what should I buy?" threads, asking questions of vendors, et cetera. I've learned a LOT about high-end denim, and thus what I do and don't want in a pair of jeans, but I am still unsure of what to buy.


  • I realize most people either love leg twist, or hate leg twist. Being from the latter camp, I understand I should ideally buy jeans made from broken twill, or sanforized denim at the very least. I really, really hate leg twist.


  • I hate sitting *on* my wallet, so I will avoid jeans with a low yoke/pockets, instead looking for jeans with pockets and a yoke in a more Wrangler-esque style. I am also aware of the unique pocket placement on Iron Heart's SEXIH0 series, but their price puts them out of my reach.


  • I love beautiful fades just as much as the next person, but I very much prefer "blacker" dyes over those that take on an royal blue cast. And though I love their fit, the "blueberry" color of worn-in Wranglers is an absolute deal-breaker.
    The slightly greenish tint of natural indigo dye is nice, but as long as a dye is nice and dark, I don't care if it's natural or synthetic.


  • I understand that irregular, "slubby" denim is another love-it-or-hate-it thing. Some folks love it because it "adds character," but in my eyes, it's an undesirable imperfection.


  • I prefer my jeans to be slightly fitted, but certainly not "skinny." I lift weights a bit, and do lots of leg-centric sports, so while Dior 19s or Thin Finns are too tight, RB1s are too roomy.


  • I absolutely *can not* spend more than $300. I shouldn't even spend that much, truth be told.


If I lived in Fantasy Land, I'd own pair of slightly-relaxed Wrangler repros with Iron Heart's quality of construction, made from a denim that was heavy, but still smooth like Studio d' Artisan or Rag & Bone's fabric. They would be dyed with a natural indigo that gave nice, Flathead-style fades, yet stayed dark in the un-abraded areas (kinda like Poly's beautiful PRPSs). And, of course, they'd only cost $100....!


Sadly, I do not live in Fantasy Land, and so I realize I probably can't get exactly what I want. That said, any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
 

JohnnyLaw

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I think that Nom de Guerre classic fit jeans meet all of your criteria.

1) Sanforized.

2) The back pockets are really long so your wallet ends up on the back of your thigh so you don't sit on it.

3) Very dark indigo.

4) Smooth denim.

5) Slim but not skinny cut with a mid-rise.

6) Cost around 220$ including SF discount from Peasant.

I recently picked up a pair for myself and I really like them. Hardware is really nice (doughnut buttons, interesting rivets) and the denim is not as stiff as APC but still has a good weight to it. The selvage is pretty cool and the hems are chainstitched, if you care about that kind of thing. My only complaint is that the stitching is not perfect in some places, but it's a minor issue.

Also, in the future there is a pinned "I have a jean" thread for questions like this.
 

asobu

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I can't see why this needs its own thread and why you can't just post it in the regular denim/small questions thread... because you're more "informed"?
 

onion

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Originally Posted by bobaochen
you only buy you like jean ,is ok,because many advice will make you confusion of your design,and often the first choose is perfect,you can try in (Link removed, I'm not quoting your spam!)
Originally Posted by asobu
I can't see why this needs its own thread and why you can't just post it in the regular denim/small questions thread... because you're more "informed"?
I would say probably because threads with such high amount of posts often pass up questions in which the majority of people don't have an answer for. While it does have it's use, it can be completely useless for more technical posts. Not to say this is a particularly good example of one that needs its own thread, but....
 

asobu

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Originally Posted by onion
I would say probably, because threads with such high amount of posts often pass up questions in which the majority of people don't have an answer for. While it does have it's use, it can be completely useless for more technical posts. Not to say this is a particularly good example of one that needs its own thread, but....


Perhaps, but if users start making new threads for all their different preferences the forum would probably be filled with them pretty soon. All I'm saying is, just because you have a few more preferences in choosing your denim doesn't really warrant a whole new thread, imo. This is just one thread so I don't mind, but I would mind if the first page had several threads like this.
 

whodini

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I was about to make a very Whodini-esque post about the OP needing to pour over photos/measurements/etc. from our affiliates or others (BiG) since he obviously has a clear picture of exactly what he wants, but not today. Maybe because I'm still drunk from breakfast.

So with that mind, I've got a few comments/suggestions:
1) Why not just bespoke your jeans?
2) Johnny's rec sounds like what you're looking for. Not sure how the backpockets on the Nudie AJ's are (you can look up that thread) but you might want to take a look there.
3) As I'm sure you read during your reasearch, leg twist can happen with any jean, sanforized or not. Out of 10 pairs I have, 10 are sanforized and 4 or 5 have a leg twist. It's just a gamble.
4) I'm with asobu. This thread is no different from posts made on "jean." People are informed there, too. Join the crowd.
 

whacked

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5EP Low Down Boot in Resin.
 

Concepts_BLC

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This is a tough question... There are so many good jeans you could buy. I am a firm believer in going out and trying everything on and not listening to the opinions of other people on how certain brands fit... A pair of True's will fit you different than they fit your best friend or co-worker.

A few brands I am feeling right now are

Denim Design Lab - Core Denim is dope , and the limited edition pieces are CRAZY!

Vintage Levis - Timeless, classic, and proven. The brand speaks for itself. The Factory X pieces inspired by Andy Warhol are amazing. Its like owning a piece of art that you can wear.

Double RL - Extremely limitted pieces, and somewhat tough to find.... This brand has almost an underground following. Somehow Double RL has managed to fashion mainstream radar for some time. I believe there are only about 25 locations in the world that carry the brand currently.

Considering the price range you are looking I would suggest you check out Denim Design Lab or Double RL.... Both have some of the qualities you are looking for.
 

Surfrider

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Originally Posted by asobu
I can't see why this needs its own thread and why you can't just post it in the regular denim/small questions thread...
For the reason that another poster already mentioned; that thread seems to be more for single, quick-and-dirty type questions, not more involved, multi-part inquiries that I had. It just didn't seem appropriate. If I needed to know, say, what size I should order my one-wash BrandX Superawesomes in, I absolutely would have posted there.
because you're more "informed"?
No. I only mentioned this because it is uncouth to be that person who says "Hey, I'm lazy; spoonfeed me the information I can't be bothered to go out and find myself!" I, like most other people, completely ignore these kinds of lazy questions, so I wanted to point out that, yes, I have done some research, no, I was not able to find for myself the information I am after, and no, I am no asking a question that has already been answered fifty times last month (ala, "hey, wut size apc's should I get if I ware a 30 in levis?!"). Call me crazy, but that's all pretty standard "How to Ask Questions the Smart Way" stuff... Mea culpa. :p
Originally Posted by whodini
I was about to make a very Whodini-esque post about the OP needing to pour over photos/measurements/etc. from our affiliates or others (BiG)....
Actually, I have done a lot of this. I went to a local fabric store and bought a measuring tape, then took measurements of my favorite jeans both right out of the wash, and after they'd been worn for a few days. I then compared my known measurements to what is made available at places like Self-Edge, BiG, Denim Bar, and so forth...though, I must admit, I kinda forgot about Peasant. I even called Self Edge to ask a couple questions about the texture of some of their brands (a detail which is not mentioned by many vendors in their product descriptions). And while I was able to rule out a LOT of jeans that won't work for me, I wasn't able to find what I was looking for. Sure, I have a few jeans on my short list (Skull 1050xx 6x6, SDA Wrangler repros...don't know if I can find any though...and so forth), but I wouldn't presume to think I've read up on all the brands and all the models worth noting. Don't mistake me; I'm not trying to be a smartass here, but....isn't this why we ask questions in places like this in the first place? Anyway, thanks for the suggestions though.
Originally Posted by JohnnyLaw
I think that Nom de Guerre classic fit jeans meet all of your criteria.
This is exactly why I posted; I don't recall seeing these at any of the online vendors I've browsed. Thanks for the tip; I'll look 'em up.
Originally Posted by Concepts_BLC
I am a firm believer in going out and trying everything on and not listening to the opinions of other people on how certain brands fit... A pair of True's will fit you different than they fit your best friend or co-worker.
Normally, this is exactly what I would do. Unfortunately, I live way the hell out in the sticks, so popping in to BiG or DB just isn't an option.
Thanks for the recommendations though; I'll be sure to google 'em.
 

onion

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Originally Posted by Concepts_BLC
I am a firm believer in going out and trying everything on and not listening to the opinions of other people on how certain brands fit....
That simply isn't possible for a huge amount of people. I live in a city with almost two million people, and I still don't know a single store that sells 5ep, Kicking Mule Workshop, A.P.C, etc.
Originally Posted by Concepts_BLC
A pair of True's will fit you different than they fit your best friend or co-worker.
Not true. True Religion jeans look horrible on all body types.
 

Concepts_BLC

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Concepts in Cambridge MA will take phone orders and have very fair prices, so if you find something give us a call.
 

Surfrider

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Originally Posted by onion
Not true. True Religion jeans look horrible on all body types.
Ee's funny because ee's true...!
</accent>
 

Baron

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Context has the full line of NdG jeans and they have an affiliate discount too, I believe.

The ESEF jeans probably also fit your criteria - you have to search for their thread and email them. They're selling their jeans for the ridiculously low introductory rate of $120.
 

drizzt3117

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SD-103s sound like a good match. I think the NDGs have too high a rise, personally.
 

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