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An American Rube in Paris

whnay.

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From February 8th to the 15th I was fortunate enough to spend some time vacationing in Paris.

First I wanted to share some observations about the City. Flusser makes mention of it in Style and the Man but it bears worth repeating. The eye for display is unmatched anywhere in the world. Simple pleasures like chocolate, cheese, and mustard are displayed with such care and grace that you can’t help but taste. Clothing is displayed with such hypnotic elegance that it takes several moments to register. That being said men in general dressed as good or slightly better than there metro counterparts in New York and notches below their brethren in several Italian cities I’ve visited including Rome and Milan. Women were another matter; I’ve never seen so many average looking people catapult themselves into sexiness than in Paris. Billowed coats, skinny jeans and patent leather flats was the look of choice with each woman pulling it off with their own twist, it’s a shame so many have to waste themselves to smoking.

The food, as expected was excellent, though towards the end of my trip I was growing tired of traditional French cuisine. Now that I’m back I wish I had taken the time to try a couple of the Chinese places I past while walking near the Rodin museum or the nice Moroccan place down from my hotel on the right bank. Le Comptior near Odeon was a highlight as was Taillevent, though lunch was somewhat spoiled by the rude behavior by the German couple sitting next to us. Ice cream or sorbet at Berthillon should be mandatory for any American; you’ll never look at Breyers or any other dominant ice cream player in the states the same. Maison Du Chocolat was also a worthy experience.

Clothing was a mixed bag. Obviously you’ve got the major fashion houses but outside of Kiton and Cifonelli off Rue Marbuef only Arny’s carried RTW clothing that many would find stylish, I can’t say much about Old England only because I found the staff so obnoxious and pushy that I left after checking out the selection of EGs. Cifonelli was outrageously expensive, Arny’s was having a sale at 50%. More on that to follow. French luxury clothing provider Zilli looked as if it had exclusive rights to adorn Arab oil tycoons and Russian gangstas, they have an adjoining shoe store that is above average but nothing to write home about. I also checked out a street style forum favorite APC, which was a lot smaller than I imagined. I picked up a pair of new standards 110EU and was on my way.

Shoes ran the gambit and overall the variety was extraordinary though John Lobb’s decision to blonde wood all of its stores (as RJ had mentioned in an earlier post) was a complete let down, I snubbed the bastards from purchasing Vales because of it though they almost got my wallet out of my back pocket for their selection of belts priced in the 300EU’s. I’ll save the Vales for my local NM salesman. Aubercy was sort of a let down; the shoes were more delicate than Berluti and also somewhat effeminate. I passed on a pair of gorgeous suede captoes at 750EU. Carmina was great and Miguel was nice to deal with, prices ranged from 500EU to 280EU with a custom patina service for 50EU extra, turnaround time can be as quick as three days. I picked up a pair of burgundy full brogues on the Philadelphia last for a great price of 316EU. He was fascinated that I had learned about his store via the men’s clothing forums. G Sene next to JL on George V was strange, a very varied collection of shoes ranging from clownish to semi-clownish. The entire store was on sale for 350EU. I was actually impressed by fashion house Fratelli Rossetti, whose modern take on many classics was a nice change of pace. The quality is not at the Carmina level but would be a nice alternative to many brands in the US. More on Berluti and Corthay later. I never made it to Cape Cod or Altan.

Pictures to follow over the weekend.
 

whnay.

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The following is a collection of thoughts from my travel journal about my adventures. Don't worry I'll update them with pictures.

Charvet

"Good evening everyone United flight 942 to Paris will be delayed due to weather, more details to follow as we get them."

So began my trip, 90 minutes later we're on the tarmac heading to 35,000 feet and my first taste of Paris. First I've got to wade my way to the back of the plane and the fumes of airline food. I've got a group of Wisconsin sisters that looked as haggard as any Green Bay fan as I've ever seen on the left of me and a LA wannabe complete with the taped up Ray Ban's on the left. Thank God I've got the center row all to myself. The linebacker core ended up gabbing the entire trip and Moby was on his Apple mixing club tunes, the glare from his notebook keeping me awake through the night.

Only the slight skid of the tires from the plane allowed me to wake up long enough to know we finally arrived, I take a quick glance at my watch...10.45 am. After the usual debacle that ensues after such an international flight I leave the plane and arrive at baggage claim, I'm on my way. I figure I've got enough time to get to my room, shower up and hit to the road but Paris transportation had other ideas. After standing in a taxi line for 30 minutes without budging I get anxious and decide to take the RER into town. After purchasing my ticket I head down and wait for the train only to be told through my rough interpretation of French that trains going into downtown had been shutdown for the day, finally the AirFrance bus (what a savior). I finally get into town at 2.15 as the bus driver had to negotiate his way through several Union rallies held in the middle of several streets in the northern suburbs of Paris. At the time I was too tired to care.

Get to the hotel, its nice and roomy which from what I can tell is unique for Paris and the left bank. Quick change and I'm out the door, first stop Charvet.

Charvet as many of you know is one of the last bastions for men left in the world, its walls and racks contain almost endless goodies for the sartorially inclined including extremely nice printed ties and pockets squares stacked up to 400 in a batch. After gazing over the selection I decide to try my hand with some of the sales people, who at this point have sequestered themselves in a corner. For a moment I don't know whose the Lion and who is the Antelope...

"Par lay voo Anglay" I mutter in some gibberish southern twang tuned French. Silence and glares, I began to laugh out loud. Who the hell I'm a kidding I tell myself. I extend my hand to the man of the pack and introduce myself in English. After the initial shock, Chris as I'll later learn extends his hand to yet another American rube (though as I learned later was pleasantly surprised by this young Yankee from a place in the United States he'd never heard of).


My face starts to tingle as we enter the elevator leading up to the second floor otherwise know as the land of a million stripes. The door opens and I'm suddenly taken aback, my eyes are at a loss and my mind has trouble processing the sheer magic of the room. After I catch my breath I explain to Chris what I'm looking for... a simple blue, a blue candy stripe and a pink micro check. I figure that three shirts for the first silo gives me enough to capture the variety of the place to let know me know what in the future will work for me, Chris agrees. We head over to the blues; there are over 200 in every shade imaginable. Pricing as I learn is based upon several factors including cloth grade, most in the collection are III to V grade but grades reach into the XX's with Sea Island 240's and other rare and vintage fabrics topping the list. As an FYI demi-measure begins at 310EU and jumps 30 EU in either direction for RTW and bespoke. After about 10 minutes I decided to go with a light IV grade broadcloth, very simple but nice. We then head over to the stripes, there are so many that it's literally hard to concentrate. Chris looks around and selects four or five bolts and we ponder the widths, the weights and the feel of them for five minutes I pick a light blue stripe in V grade. Then its over to the pinks via a stroll through the grays, reds, greens and yellows. After my initial blush through the 100 odd pinks on the table Chris pulls out a book of fabrics found at the workroom in France. After about 200 pages I pick the micro check that I was looking for, grade IV.

Next comes the fitting, I mosey over to one of the rooms and after about a half hour I'm ready to pick out the remaining details. First the cuffs, after some pondering I finally decide to trust my gut and keep it simple. Two button barrel cuff for all three. Next the collars, I'm advised against anything with a high back collar, Chris asks if I prefer button downs on dress shirts to which I snicker at the suggestion. He whips his brow; I guess most of his American clients prefer to spend $450 on Brooks Brothers knock-offs, morons. I pick two spread collars and one semi-spread with a rounded edge (exclusive to demi-measure and bespoke).

We head back downstairs and settle the account, I leave an initial deposit with delivery scheduled for the end of March.
 

RJman

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Christophe's a nice guy -- I'll probably be seeing him tomorrow. Sounds like you had a good trip. Great post.
 

whnay.

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Originally Posted by RJman
Christophe's a nice guy -- I'll probably be seeing him tomorrow. Sounds like you had a good trip. Great post.
Please tell him I said hello.
 

Zegnamtl

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I am glad to hear you enjoyed your stay in one the greatest cities in the world. If visited with an open mind, it is hard not to fall in love with everything about the city, specially the women, your assessment is spot!
 

RJman

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Originally Posted by LabelKing
I would like to see pictures.

Why didn't you two meet up for some artisan drinks and tales of Ernest?

Didn't realize you were a fran. Put your trousers back on.
 

Tomasso

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Originally Posted by whnay.
I guess most of his American clients prefer to spend $450 on Brooks Brothers knock-offs, morons.
I'm American, Charvet is my shirtmaker, I like BD shirts (1/3 of my shirt wardrobe), I'm a moron?
crazy.gif
BTW, all the top EU shirtmakers will gladly make BD's as they are quite popular there, especially Italy.
 

whnay.

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If you wear them formally with a tie and a dark suit....yes. It will always look inferior to a more formal collar.
 

King Francis

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I wouldn't go so far as to say anyone is a moron for wearing buttondown collars, but I've never really liked them, especially for wear with dark suits, as whnay pointed out. I would almost always prefer to wear or see a point, spread, or cutaway collar. But I don't exactly have an extensive wardrobe, so what do I know.
 

nioh

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Wonderful report! Sounds like you had a lovely first experience of Paris.
 

Matt

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speaking of Paris - RJ/Etienne, my annual pilgrimage forthcoming.

April 25 and 26 I have to be in Toulouse, but once again Ill do a weekend in Paris ahead of the conference, and probably five days somewhere else. Rome maybe.

Be good to catch up again.

Zach - can you coincide?

Any others likely to be around?
 

globetrotter

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Originally Posted by m@T
speaking of Paris - RJ/Etienne, my annual pilgrimage forthcoming.

April 25 and 26 I have to be in Toulouse, but once again Ill do a weekend in Paris ahead of the conference, and probably five days somewhere else. Rome maybe.

Be good to catch up again.

Zach - can you coincide?

Any others likely to be around?


**** - 21-27 leading a sales training in colombia, then staying there with the family for a vacation. would have loved to have set it up.

I will have to be in vietnam before august, though.
 

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