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AMIDÉ HADELIN - OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD

Amidé

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Email inquiry to "contact" on your website bounced.

Text of my email:

Please clarify chest size info:

Hello,

For the Fine Bengal stripe size 42 Chest size is 59.75 cm X 2 or 47 inches. Correct?

Probably to too trim for me I wear 50 in. chest more or less.

Please confirm.

Thanks
Thanks for letting me know. Not sure why that email bounced, since it is the correct address. 🤔
Anyway, you are correct regarding the sizing. As for chest size you would probably be better off with our size 44 shirt. Obviously that has a wider collar as well..
 

Bespoke DJP

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Dear @Amidé,

Your new FW collection is starting to take shape, hence I sincerely hope that you would not mind with couple of pertinent questions:

a) Braces:
Have you by chance ordered "grey flannel" or relevant braided-end braces, akin to the previous year's oatmeal (that appear in the braces' section of your site)? Perhaps this is not a half-bad idea for all us gentlemen who already have, want to contemplate, or renew their grey flannel suits!

b) Sleeveless cardigans:
- Can you please measure with precision and let me know what is the diameter of the buttons?
- Are the same size buttons used across all garment sizes (from EU46 all way through EU56)?

Thanking you in advance,

Best,

Dimitris
 

Amidé

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Dear @Amidé,

Your new FW collection is starting to take shape, hence I sincerely hope that you would not mind with couple of pertinent questions:

a) Braces:
Have you by chance ordered "grey flannel" or relevant braided-end braces, akin to the previous year's oatmeal (that appear in the braces' section of your site)? Perhaps this is not a half-bad idea for all us gentlemen who already have, want to contemplate, or renew their grey flannel suits!

b) Sleeveless cardigans:
- Can you please measure with precision and let me know what is the diameter of the buttons?
- Are the same size buttons used across all garment sizes (from EU46 all way through EU56)?

Thanking you in advance,

Best,

Dimitris
Thank you for reaching out Dimitris.
As for the braces, no flannel or additional loden braces are coming in for this A/W season. I might consider something similar for next autumn (2023). Ordering such braces now would mean having them delivered around April/May, or perhaps they could be included in my next allocated production slot in February, but that wouldn’t make sense in terms of season. The closest thing to grey braces that will be coming in with the next delivery somewhere in the next 2-3 weeks are a rerun of the ones below:

D49E97B7-0F00-4CA8-AAC0-F50AF9AFE458.jpeg


As for the buttons, I sent my knitwear manufacturer 20mm natural horn buttons to use on all garments. They slightly vary in size (19.8-20mm), but are used on all sizes across the current (and still upcoming) range.

Best,
Amidé
 

Bespoke DJP

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Dear @Amidé,

Thank you very much with your - as always - kind and informative answer!

To tell the truth, it's been quite some time now since I had in mind to send you a PM concerning the braces' proposition, but you know some things happen in everyday matters and these ideas just evaporate! Since it is certain that you welcome suggestions of the kind, perhaps there will be a next time!

That said, the braces above look great, I like all the colors-textures-materials coordination, but I am seeing them working (aesthetically) more on a worsted suit; for the flannel it would be more becoming the flannel-y offering like the oatmeal one. My comment was, as I wrote above, if by chance these were (already) ordered! The whole discussion now is about next FW.

Finally, as far as the buttons are concerned, I recall a pertinent discussion in the Unfunded Liabilities Thread, not that much time ago. The difference in the torso's area (geometrically speaking) of a, say, EU48 (my size) with EU56 is considerable, and an esteemed fellow of ours - tailor - mentioned that an adjustment in the size of buttons on e.g. a single-breasted jacket, following the difference in the jacket's size, creates (obviously if I may add) a more balanced result. I have found a random picture of a gentleman (size EU46) in a similar sleeveless cardigan, alas, the buttons seemed huge on him! Should you think about it for next FW and discuss it with your maker, perhaps a "golden solution" might be an escalation of the size of the buttons per, say, 2 sizes and on: EU46-48: 16mm, EU50-52: 18mm, EU54-56: 20mm; merely an idea for further elaboration. I am almost certain that no merchant, retailer, on-line vendor, and the like has ever done this before!

Food for thought for the gentleman-host of this Thread.

Best,

Dimitris
 

Amidé

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Dear @Amidé,

Thank you very much with your - as always - kind and informative answer!

To tell the truth, it's been quite some time now since I had in mind to send you a PM concerning the braces' proposition, but you know some things happen in everyday matters and these ideas just evaporate! Since it is certain that you welcome suggestions of the kind, perhaps there will be a next time!

That said, the braces above look great, I like all the colors-textures-materials coordination, but I am seeing them working (aesthetically) more on a worsted suit; for the flannel it would be more becoming the flannel-y offering like the oatmeal one. My comment was, as I wrote above, if by chance these were (already) ordered! The whole discussion now is about next FW.

Finally, as far as the buttons are concerned, I recall a pertinent discussion in the Unfunded Liabilities Thread, not that much time ago. The difference in the torso's area (geometrically speaking) of a, say, EU48 (my size) with EU56 is considerable, and an esteemed fellow of ours - tailor - mentioned that an adjustment in the size of buttons on e.g. a single-breasted jacket, following the difference in the jacket's size, creates (obviously if I may add) a more balanced result. I have found a random picture of a gentleman (size EU46) in a similar sleeveless cardigan, alas, the buttons seemed huge on him! Should you think about it for next FW and discuss it with your maker, perhaps a "golden solution" might be an escalation of the size of the buttons per, say, 2 sizes and on: EU46-48: 16mm, EU50-52: 18mm, EU54-56: 20mm; merely an idea for further elaboration. I am almost certain that no merchant, retailer, on-line vendor, and the like has ever done this before!

Food for thought for the gentleman-host of this Thread.

Best,

Dimitris
As for the buttons, there’s two main issues. The buttons and the button holes.
Identical buttons that are only say 2mm larger in diameter ranging from (e.g.) 18-24mm are hard to come by. In case of a special order (my suppliers can make almost anything) the minimal order quantities per size would probably mean we’d have enough buttons for the next 5 years. I’d rather put my money elsewhere to be honest.
Also, different button sizes would mean having to make different sized button holes. And although that doesn’t sound complicated, it does lead to challenges in production.
With bespoke items things like this are really not a problem, with batch produced items like our knitwear, moving away too far from standard is usually costly. Our knitwear is made in small numbers, which already makes them more expensive. Having to change the settings for the button holes for nearly every size up only adds to the production cost.
So, can it be done? Yes.
Will it be a likely feature for the future? No.
 

Bespoke DJP

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There is absolute, relentless truth in every single sentence that you've wrote above, dear @Amidé!

Thank you again for your input.

Best,

Dimitris
 

ericgereghty

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For whatever it's worth, I will say I LOVE the tweed (I think it was Moon?) braces I have. Not sure I'm likely to ever really wear them with a suit, but will undoubtedly do so with odd jackets.
As well, I would also stump for braided end fastenings as well...or (likely less popular sentiment incoming) white leather fastenings...though white braided ones are gorgeous as well!
 

Bespoke DJP

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Re: grey flannel braces (Fall 2023 suggestion)

An extremely nice braided ends' choice for grey flannel braces which would match perfectly with a grey flannel suit and equally with odd grey flannel trousers, is the following:

1663657194563.png


Here, the braided ends are mounted on a 25mm elastic set, still, exactly the same ones (maker's economies of scale) are used in the other braces' widths as well.

Best,

Dimitris
 

Amidé

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For whatever it's worth, I will say I LOVE the tweed (I think it was Moon?) braces I have. Not sure I'm likely to ever really wear them with a suit, but will undoubtedly do so with odd jackets.
As well, I would also stump for braided end fastenings as well...or (likely less popular sentiment incoming) white leather fastenings...though white braided ones are gorgeous as well!
Glad te learn your pleased with your tweed braces, they are indeed made from Abraham Moon Shetland tweed.
And yes, for suits flannel or loden would work better, so perhaps we’ll be doing some new (grey) flannel or loden braces for next year.
 

Amidé

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Re: grey flannel braces (Fall 2023 suggestion)

An extremely nice braided ends' choice for grey flannel braces which would match perfectly with a grey flannel suit and equally with odd grey flannel trousers, is the following:

View attachment 1834416

Here, the braided ends are mounted on a 25mm elastic set, still, exactly the same ones (maker's economies of scale) are used in the other braces' widths as well.

Best,

Dimitris
Yes, that would work as well. What we normally do is try to select braids that work well with the braces fabric and leather. So it will depend on the loden or flannel used for next A/W which braids will be used exactly. It’s safe to say that the colours of the leather and braids will not be extravagant, since they will be mainly intended for use with suits.
 

Amidé

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Another look at some of our new AW22 items!

B862F9E9-8356-4901-8A07-E1498E5D5F6B.jpeg
 
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stephen nyc

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Looking to try out this collection of ties preowned, if anyone has any they'd like to sell please PM. Thanks
 

Amidé

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More new items have arrived! Check out our small range of Black Tie accessories, a collection that will be expanding over the next months.

C3A209A6-4F00-4A7B-8B22-0D3AFE9A1631.jpeg
39A91A23-254C-40F3-B4C9-C06D10518C3C.jpeg
190335D6-30CF-4248-9DA7-35C262F34FFD.jpeg
 

Amidé

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For those of you who are in the area, we will be displaying at the Amsterdam Super Trunk Show this Saturday, October 1st.

0B065D89-FB86-4AD4-9EC4-3DDDDC1DBDCA.jpeg
 

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