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American Blazer V. British Blazer

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by slaavwmr, Feb 13, 2005.

  1. slaavwmr

    slaavwmr Senior member

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  2. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is Ben Silver stretching things, a bit. I suppose the key differences, in their view, are that the "English" coat has a more structured shoulder and side vents, whereas the American coat is more "trad": softer shoulder, flapped patch pockets, center vent.

    I must say that no dyed-in-the-wool English dandy I know would be caught dead in that "English" coat.
     
  3. slaavwmr

    slaavwmr Senior member

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    Then what type of Blazer would they wear?
    Do they wear Blazers?
     
  4. uppercase

    uppercase Senior member

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    Agree that that "English" blazer just doesn't look like anything you would see in London.

    But why not? Is is those bottons, the low buttoning point or those trans-Atlantic shoulders - neither here nor there, or what?

    I can't put my finger on it.
     
  5. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    Nope, the American version has the soaring eagle butons, heh.

    koji
     
  6. Trilby

    Trilby Senior member

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    Double breasted in Britain. The only single breasted blazers I've seen here have been on Americans.
     
  7. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

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    DB English style blazer (as done by RL) [​IMG]
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, Trilby is right.  DB is much, much more common in Britain for blazers.  In the rare cases when one sees an SB blazer, it will almost always be flannel or hopsack or some rougher, spongier cloth; three-button; side-vented; with open patch pockets.  A worsted two-button blazer with besom or flapped pockets is a strictly American creature.

    The classic blazer is DB in flannel (or doeskin or hopsack, etc.), slightly lighter than true navy, 4-on-2 button stance, with open patch pockets.  You will also see a lot of worsted blazers with flapped pockets and a 6-on-2 stance, exactly like the one depicted above.
     
  9. Thracozaag

    Thracozaag Senior member

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    I know I'm opening up a can of worms here, but what is the exact story behind the appellation of 'blazer'. I've heard many conflicting accounts.

    koji
     
  10. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The bottom line is, nobody knows. None of the traditional accounts can be proved.
     
  11. slaavwmr

    slaavwmr Senior member

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    So, from what I can tell, the difference between the two are slim and have nothing to do with the country style.

    That being said, anyone have an opinion on the quality of the two items. Maybe Ben Silver questions have to go to the other forum, but I figure I will post it here for now and maybe add it to the other one later.
     
  12. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I wouldn't go so far as to say "nothing."  Side vents are more typically English, whereas center vents are definitely American.  The coat called "American" really does look like an "American/Trad" coat.  I just think it's a stretch to say that the other one is quitessentially "English."
     
  13. Trilby

    Trilby Senior member

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    It would be interesting to know whether they sell more of the American or "English" version.
     
  14. slaavwmr

    slaavwmr Senior member

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    (slaavwmr @ Feb. 13 2005,11:23) So, from what I can tell, the difference between the two are slim and have nothing to do with the country style.
    I wouldn't go so far as to say "nothing." Â Side vents are more typically English, whereas center vents are definitely American. Â The coat called "American" really does look like an "American/Trad" coat. Â I just think it's a stretch to say that the other one is quitessentially "English."
    What about the cut. I am not going to wear a DB blazer, and I would like something more british looking, not planning a trip to London anytime soon. So I guess, is the blazer a more british looking one, or it just a line from Ben Silver?
     
  15. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    In my opinion (true Brits, weigh in please), a 2-button worsted blazer is never going to look English to the English. But at least the side vents give it an air of Britannia.
     
  16. YoungFogey

    YoungFogey Senior member

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    In the mid-eighties, living in England I owned a British-made and bought blazer that was two button SB. It had double vents, though.

    I think the SB blazer was once quite common in England but is beginning to disappear. Perhaps this is due to the SB's ubiquity in America (and no Brit wants to be mistaken for an American), as well as the rise of the SB blue blazer as the hallmark of the security guard uniform.
     
  17. Horace

    Horace Senior member

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    In the mid-80's, I bought a SB blazer, side vent, "made in England" in shop in London. Terrifically heavy wool it was made out of. It was remarkably well-made.
     

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