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Ambrosi Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ambrosi, Apr 14, 2011.

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  1. chogall

    chogall Senior member

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    Ambrosi is normal height. But Mafoofan very short even with Asian standards.
     
  2. spectre

    spectre Senior member

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    It can be nice but too much of it devalues the product. If you apply it everywhere, like all around the side adjusters, it just screams 'look at my pants, they are SO handmade'. Not exactly subtle. Then, the rest is hidden, so only you know it's there, so two extremes both with downsides. Like working button holes - the dilemma is to keep them done up and no-one knows they are working or undo them and risk being showy and pretentious, or have people point out your buttons are missing.
    A tasteful amount of visible hand stitching is nice, but that can be obtained without ridiculous prices.
    If, of course, the thread is perhaps silk instead of cotton, leading to more elasticity, that is practical and desirable, but also unseen.
     
  3. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Last edited: Oct 18, 2014
  4. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    Just to be clear, my post was in response to Jensen, who said that anyone who buys from Salvatore now must be a masochist or a sucker. It obviously wasn't to be flippant about what Michael went through.
     
  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Jensen was commenting on michaels story...

    I agree with Jensen. I wouldn't want to commission anything from Ambrosi after hearing michaels story. Idling for 2 years...

    Is there anything particularly special about ambrosi's pants? Why do people still come back?

    Doesn't NSM do pants for like half the price?
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2014
  6. coolpapa

    coolpapa Senior member

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    Pants is one thing I think NSM does really well. At least the cut and fit.
     
  7. dieworkwear

    dieworkwear Senior member

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    1. I said most, which does not mean every single traveling tailor. It just means most. Yes, NSM prices are less than Ambrosi's.

    2. The stuff I've seen by Ambrosi have been nice looking. This doesn't mean that he makes the best pants in the world. Yes, other tailors make nice pants.

    3. If you're already paying the prices that traveling English tailors charge, Ambrosi's prices are at least on par, if not cheaper, than them.

    4. I don't discount Michael's story. But I was told that I would receive a fitting in two months, and my pants before Christmas. Seems like a reasonable turnaround to me. And if any issues come up, I can contact my credit card. Like everyone else who is ordering right now.

    5. I've also heard from a couple of reliable sources that there are two sides to the fight between Foo and Amrbosi, but people who know have stayed away from this thread because they think it's become a clusterfuck.

    6. The fight between Foo and Ambrosi is different from the fight between Ambrosi and many of his other customers, who have expressed discontent in this thread and others. As as I understand it, he has a small operation (which I can confirm, as I saw it) and demand quickly outpaced production capacity. So, some orders got lost in the midst of all that. Things seem to be under control now, as growth has been steady, rather than exploding. So, turnaround times seem to be more reliable.

    7. TBH, I kind of find the pile on at this point kind of tiring. Not people who have legitimate issues with Ambrosi, of course. But just people who want to pile in in this kind of "me too-ism," where they just want to echo other people's concerns.

    8. I don't really understand why you're concerned with other people's purchases, esp since Ambrosi hasn't wronged you personally.
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  8. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

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    Do any of you folks (that commission 'brosi pants) request bottoms below the knee that are not so severely tapered, or is the taper part of the affection you have for these pants? Personally I think the taper looks terrible. I look at the Armoury tumblr and there are all these folks wearing amazing jackets with ridiculous trousers (with exceptions, of course...). I get the quality, but the styling looks off...
     
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2014
  9. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    I was in Naples in September and it never entered my mind to get
    pants from Ambrosi given his record of a few years back. In fact,
    I visited no tailors but contented myself with sighseeing and eating
    fabulous food.
     
    2 people like this.
  10. conradwu

    conradwu Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Certainly didn't mean to suggest you can't use your own card...

    I was just interested in what makes Ambrosi pants so special... sounds like not a whole lot compared to NSM etc.

    Some people like the collect suits and SC's from different artisans/manufacturers. Perfectly fine.

     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014
  12. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

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    Not only with Ambrosi but with many local tailors in Naples the rule is simple; just don't focus on exact fitting or delivery times. Let the process go on, it may take 2 months, 3 months etc. The guy may say he will ship your pants/suit in september but don't get pissed off if you don't receive it in September you may receive it in October or November or even maybe December. This is the golden rule. Given the structure of tailoring business it's 100% normal that the guy may not respect his engagements in time. If you are running a big business you can hire people and increase your production for a given time but this is not something that you can do with bespoke tailoring and everybody can have some personal problems in the life.
    I had two pants from Ambrosi last year and he delivered quickly. They are ok. They are very well finished but i don't like that much the cut. Solito cuts much better my pants.
     
  13. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    One thing that I think Ambrosi does extremely well is get the tapering right. What he made is me is comfortable but looks slim. Everything I've seen on the Armoury guys seems I be the same. Tailored, sharp perhaps but well within the pale of reasonable. FWIW I think that's one advantage that modern trousers have over golden age ones.
     
  14. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    Ambrosi was cutting / making trousers for Solito, at least on the US tour way back when. Has that changed?
     
  15. nioh

    nioh Senior member

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    Don't get the Ambrosi v NSM comparison, been a client of both for many years and Ambrosi are leagues above NSM. Not gonna rain on anyone's parade, but anyone who says NSM's trousers are similar or better than Salva's need to re-evaluate the meaning of fit.
     
  16. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

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    I've used both and while I'd give Ambrosi the edge, it's pretty close.

    I'm travelling at the moment but can post photos next week if this is a comparison people are particularly interested in.
     
    4 people like this.
  17. nioh

    nioh Senior member

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    To be completely honest, all of the trousers NSM made for me are a let down. It could be that they were switching tailors too frequently (perhaps still are?), but each trouser is different from the other. And I never found then to be very shaped at all. Salva on the other hand, keeps delivering the same fit and quality time and time again.

    That being said, I know some here keep other makers in higher regard, but for those of us not being able to travel to Naples frequently to seek those makers out, I still believe that Salva offers the best trouser available.
     
  18. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Canta, I think it would be very useful to see a comparison of Ambrosi and NSM.
     
    2 people like this.
  19. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Agree with Cantab. My NSM pants are really good. The jacket I don't like as much. Probably wouldn't get another suit, but I would and have ordered more pants.
     
  20. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

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    I just think there is a middle ground that looks better, which I rarely see from Ambrosi (they all seem to hug the ankles making quasi-cropped lengths required and making one's feet look clownish). Whereas I see much more moderate and variable leg openings from NSM or Ercole. I was just wondering if what he (Ambrosi) wears, along with SOME of the Armoury guys is the default cut, or simply a preference that can be easily avoided...
     
    Last edited: Oct 19, 2014

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