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Ambrosi Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ambrosi, Apr 14, 2011.

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  1. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    My condolences to those affected. I just can't decide if they have been Ambro-zied or Napoli-ed. Sort of the similar dilemma of whether Naples is the Calcutta of Europe or Calcutta is the Naples of Asia.
     
  2. S. Magnozzi

    S. Magnozzi Senior member

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    Well, yeah. One of the great things I've heard about amrbosi is how they shape the trousers. That's done with an iron and the effect isn't permanent. So do you send them back to italy to get pressed? With the turnaround time you might get to wear them once a year.

    I cannot tell if you're being facetious or not but regular ironing following the creases works fine...
     
  3. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Senior member

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    I cannot tell if you're being facetious or not but regular ironing following the creases works fine...

    He's not talking about pressing, he's talking about shaping i.e. stretching/shrinking areas of the cloth with an iron.
     
  4. S. Magnozzi

    S. Magnozzi Senior member

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    He's not talking about pressing, he's talking about shaping i.e. stretching/shrinking areas of the cloth with an iron.

    Yes, but the same answer applies. I press my trousers based on the creases and they maintain their shape just fine.
     
  5. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Senior member

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    Yes, but the same answer applies. I press my trousers based on the creases and they maintain their shape just fine.

    The iron shaping is inherently temporary. The cloth returns to its original shape over time, and humidity/steam accelerates the process. The trousers then need to be carefully pressed to achieve the same effects as the original shaping. Jeffreyd has written extensively on this topic, so you should probably read up before posting further.
     
  6. Big A

    Big A Senior member

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    - [​IMG] - [​IMG] = [​IMG] + [​IMG]

    A brilliant summation ... I'm not sure anything more can be said.
     
  7. NorCal_1

    NorCal_1 Senior member

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    Ambrosi + Jantzen Tailor ought to merge... and rename themsevles 'Scusi'
     
  8. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    So if I'm reading correctly, the Ambrosi magic is in the sewing/construction and not the fit?
     
  9. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    So if I'm reading correctly, the Ambrosi magic is in the sewing/construction and not the fit?

    Both.
     
  10. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]
    Btw, how was Utah?


    Sick, though the half pipe was super icy on one side.
     
  11. S. Magnozzi

    S. Magnozzi Senior member

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    The iron shaping is inherently temporary. The cloth returns to its original shape over time, and humidity/steam accelerates the process. The trousers then need to be carefully pressed to achieve the same effects as the original shaping. Jeffreyd has written extensively on this topic, so you should probably read up before posting further.

    I know what you're speaking of, and naturally garments will mold to wear and your body over time. That said, I maintain that the general shape is upheld fine by anyone being somewhat capable of handling an iron.
     
  12. Big A

    Big A Senior member

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    No. I don't swim in the ethno-class-obssessed frame-of-mind that you can't find your way out of. In fact, I think it's laughable to infer anything about 'class' based on the fact someone lives in Brooklyn. You done caught your own tail. You must be a lunatic. You're the one who brought up my Asian-ness, insinuating that I'm somehow trying to rise 'above' it by using Italian tailors, yet remain nonethless 'just' an Asian. Truly disgusting sub-texts When the f*ck did I say I was better than him?!? His experience with tailors has nothing to do with the fallacy of his economic argument--it has everything to do with his claim that his tailor is every bit as good as those better-known and of higher repute.
    I, like many before me, have come to realize that arguing with you is like playing "fetch" with a slightly retarded bulldog ... Just when you think you've gotten somewhere, it runs back into the wall. I should have gone with the simplest form of the argument, which was: stop acting like a superior prick just because you've commissioned a bunch of bespoke garments from a foreign tailor. You didn't have to say you thought you were better than NYR - it's rather evident in the "subtext" you keep referring to. One doesn't usually talk down to a person he considers an equal. Also, your "cool with that" statement smacked of classism - funny from someone who purports to never even have considered the subject (the horror! where's the divan, I might faint!) I'm not saying you're necessarily a snob, although that's what the evidence suggests - you might just be an asshole. Finally, I wonder if you've had the opportunity to compare Ercole's work with Ambrosi's? If not, how is your opinion any more valid than NYR's?
     
  13. geoffmartin17

    geoffmartin17 Senior member

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    Are those Foo's pants? They look great. I guess i can see why everyone puts up with his crap if they look that good.
     
  14. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Senior member

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    I know what you're speaking of, and naturally garments will mold to wear and your body over time. That said, I maintain that the general shape is upheld fine by anyone being somewhat capable of handling an iron.

    We're not talking about garments molding to the body over time. We're talking about the cutter using an iron to stretch/shrink the cloth so that the garment takes a particular shape even before it is ever worn. This shaping is temporary, and the garment needs to be pressed with a specific technique, preferably by an expert, in order to restore it.
     
  15. S. Magnozzi

    S. Magnozzi Senior member

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    We're not talking about garments molding to the body over time. We're talking about the cutter using an iron to stretch/shrink the cloth so that the garment takes a particular shape even before it is ever worn. This shaping is temporary, and the garment needs to be pressed with a specific technique, preferably by an expert, in order to restore it.

    Again, I am not refuting this. I simply state that the shape will be maintained fine by careful regular pressing (mostly flannels and linens in my case). Whilst I understand and welcome the need for having jackets professionally pressed (by the very tailor if possible), I fail to see the same utility when it comes to trousers.
     
  16. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    Sick

    Nice.

    the half pipe was super icy on one side.

    Wait, you ride the pipe?!?! Pics or gtfo. [​IMG]
     
  17. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Wait, you ride the pipe?!?! Pics or gtfo. [​IMG]
    Shaun Whnay?
     
  18. gdl203

    gdl203 Senior member Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    So if I'm reading correctly, the Ambrosi magic is in the sewing/construction and not the fit?

    Ever heard of the magic number referred to as the "golden ratio"?

    Let's see...

    [​IMG] established that his other pants (hereby labeled "b") have 60% of the handwork of his Ambrosi pants (labeled "a")

    So we have:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    On the other hand, the golden ratio derived by the quadratic formula is

    [​IMG]

    Yes, you correctly identified a 3% difference between these two numbers.

    Is it at all possible that [​IMG] 's 60% number was a little bit of an approximation? I say that's possible... it's possible...
     
  19. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Shaun Whnay?

    whnay's was riding pipe when shawn was still in his diapers. whnay is an old school pipe rider.
     
  20. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    whnay's was riding pipe when shawn was still in his diapers. whnay is an old school pipe rider.

    LULZ
     

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