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Ambrosi Napoli

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Ambrosi, Apr 14, 2011.

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  1. gbrown_nyc

    gbrown_nyc Senior member

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    As a person of mixed parentage, my father is Jewish and my mother being Chinese, I cannot describe how torn I feel when I read the exchanges between the Foo and Big A.

    Regardless, I hear that the Singaporeans who ordered their pants from Ambrosi got them but then they paid about $1000 a pair.


    That is a lot of money for pants. Elasticity in the groin area doesn't come cheap.
     
  2. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Too lazy to search, but I believe edmorel once noted that NSM's trousers are highly comparable to Ambrosi's.

    Do you find any differences in fit? What I especially like about my Ambrosi's is the fit and 'elasticity' in the groin area [​IMG], something I have not experienced with other tailors yet.


    I have only one pair of NSM trousers. There is significantly less handwork. Much of the detailing is the same. They fit quite well but differently, less "shape" around the seat and less taper to the leg.
     
  3. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    Ruh roh, this is starting to remind me of the story one of the best tailors in NYC who [sadly and secretively] had a gambling afffliction.

    When he was inspired, there was little comparison.

    Fragile folks tailors can be.

    - M
     
  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Ruh roh, this is starting to remind me of the story one of the best tailors in NYC who [sadly and secretively] had a gambling afffliction.

    When he was inspired, there was little comparison.

    Fragile folks tailors can be.

    - M

    Every one of your posts is just a bit more of a trainwreck than the last.
     
  5. banis

    banis Senior member

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    I have only one pair of NSM trousers. There is significantly less handwork. Much of the detailing is the same. They fit quite well but differently, less "shape" around the seat and less taper to the leg.
    Tapering on Amrosi's is too extreme. It is 18.5-19 cm. on my pants. [​IMG]
     
  6. andreyb2

    andreyb2 Senior member

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    Regardless, I hear that the Singaporeans who ordered their pants from Ambrosi got them but then they paid about $1000 a pair.

    Really?

    I wonder how much of this went to Ambrosi's pocket and how much to the pocket of a certain Singaporian magazine. [​IMG]

    Andrey
     
  7. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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    Every one of your posts is just a bit more of a trainwreck than the last.

    +1 Just plain awkward.
     
  8. S. Magnozzi

    S. Magnozzi Senior member

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    I have only one pair of NSM trousers. There is significantly less handwork. Much of the detailing is the same. They fit quite well but differently, less "shape" around the seat and less taper to the leg.

    That is interesting considering NSM is quite agressive in styling.

    Tapering on Amrosi's is too extreme. It is 18.5-19 cm. on my pants. [​IMG]

    Indeed, mine are similar. When I remarked about the taper, Antonio was quick to note that since I am tall I shouldn't worry...
     
  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Every one of your posts is just a bit more of a trainwreck than the last.

    +1000
     
  10. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    one

    Awwe, poo-poo follows me around.

    - M
     
  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Whether its a tailor, or a bank, or a law firm, in business no one who wants to grow will turn away prospective clients for fear of becoming too big. In fact, I think its partially one of the reasons people can be secretive about who their tailors are (MBT).

    This is plainly false, though. When Apple runs out of iPads, they don't promise you one, take your money, then go excommunicado. They tell you: "We're out--come back later." Restaurants don't promise you a table when they're out of space. The Girl Scouts selling cookies in my office lobby don't take my money when they're out of Samoyas and scurry away.

    It's no different with tailors. Sometimes they will tell you an order will take longer because they are extremely backlogged. Sometimes they will even turn away new clients.

    Regarding the practicality of choosing a provincial tailor, its well know, I teach school. I don't make the money of a Wall Streeter or a lawyer, nor have I inherited ANYTHING. I bust my ass (as do you) for the money I earn, I like getting clothes made for me, and I go where I do because its in my neighborhood, I like the people AND I can afford it. You seem to (and correct me if I'm wrong) dismiss what Ercole can produce because he's local.

    Ercole is not cheap, though he charges less than LH. In fact, it is quite likely that you have spent much more than I have on bespoke clothing. The point is: whether you are a teacher is neither here nor there. What is relevant is that you have experience with one local tailor, yet dismiss what is widely known about the broader tailoring universe.

    So, no, I don't dismiss Ercole because he's local. I dismiss your claims that he is every bit as good as better-known, higher-priced tailors you don't seem to have any tangible basis for comparing him to. Keep in mind, there are plenty of other NYC tailors who charge multiples of what Ercole does. Can Ercole's Brooklyn location really explain the difference? Do Raphael or Corvato really have 'brands' they need to sell? In all likelihood, there is a difference in quality--or at least handwork.

    There is plenty of online photographic evidence of how much handwork goes into an Ambrosi trouser. If you want to make a fact-based comparison to Ercole, you are free to do so. That's why all the posturing comes across as so false.

    . . . but just because my pants aren't $750 a pair, doesn't mean they can't be as good if not BETTER than the ones made by Sal.

    Nobody said otherwise. But given that you have shown nothing to prove they are as good or better, it is less than likely.

    In fact, I'd like to offer an e-olive branch if you will, and invite you to go see Frank to get a pair of pants made. Bring your Ambrosis. I could meet you there, even buy you an espresso across the street if you like, and you can see for yourself what I'm talking about, and maybe even be pleasantly surprised to find a less expensive option, with the convenience of being right here for quick fixes, or anything else you might want/need.

    I appreciate the gesture.

    I find it impossible to believe you are really this fucking stupid - I think you are being obtuse just for the fun of it. In case I'm wrong, I'll break it down further for you: in the context of historical cross-borough snobbery (specifically white Manhattan's historical bias against the"ethnic" outer boroughs) it was incredibly amusing to see you address NYR as if you were one of the Vanderbilts. It was even more amusing given that your opinion of yourself vs. NYR apparently derives from the fact that you use Italian tailors who happen to be located in Italy and he doesn't. Don't you see the irony?

    No. I don't swim in the ethno-class-obssessed frame-of-mind that you can't find your way out of. In fact, I think it's laughable to infer anything about 'class' based on the fact someone lives in Brooklyn. You done caught your own tail.

    The part I wrote about the Everglades club was meant as sarcasm, which I'll assume you realized before choosing to make my supposed self hate and your Asian pride the focus of the argument. Frankly, its the half of me that's Catholic that I'm really ashamed of [/notseriousincaseyoustilldontgetit].

    You must be a lunatic. You're the one who brought up my Asian-ness, insinuating that I'm somehow trying to rise 'above' it by using Italian tailors, yet remain nonethless 'just' an Asian. Truly disgusting sub-texts.

    My point was that buying expensive bespoke garments doesn't make you "better" than the guy who doesn't - a fact that seemed to have escaped you.

    When the f*ck did I say I was better than him?!?

    As for the rest of your argument (NYR thinks tailors are stupid, you can't limit yourself to a local tailor and comment on the economics of tailoring, etc.) my only response is this: if that's the conclusion you draw from his comments, it might be best that you gave up law (if a previous poster is correct) because logical reasoning ain't your thing.

    His experience with tailors has nothing to do with the fallacy of his economic argument--it has everything to do with his claim that his tailor is every bit as good as those better-known and of higher repute.
     
  12. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Awwe, poo-poo follows me around.

    - M

    No. I think that is probably the smell emanating from your famous gluteal folds.
     
  13. Wes Bourne

    Wes Bourne Senior member

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  14. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    So, no, I don't dismiss Ercole because he's local. I dismiss your claims that he is every bit as good as better-known, higher-priced tailors you don't seem to have any tangible basis for comparing him to. Keep in mind, there are plenty of other NYC tailors who charge multiples of what Ercole does. Can Ercole's Brooklyn location really explain the difference? Do Raphael or Corvato really have 'brands' they need to sell? In all likelihood, there is a difference in quality--or at least handwork.
    Or they could just be charging prices that they know their clientele can/will bear.
     
  15. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    -

    [​IMG]

    -

    [​IMG]

    =

    [​IMG]

    +

    [​IMG]


    You lost me with the unicorn.
     
  16. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Senior member

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    Or they could just be charging prices that they know their clientele can/will bear.

    Or more broadly, the lower price and higher output could be profit maximizing for their operation
     
  17. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You lost me with the unicorn.

    How can you not get that in this context?
     
  18. texas_jack

    texas_jack Senior member

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    This thread is getting so awesome. I predict invitations for fisticuffs at various NY intersections.
     
  19. CaymanS

    CaymanS Senior member

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    I figured he made more than either of us - he's in a union, after all.

    Epic.

    Anyway, after a great deal of experimentation, I have come to realize that you generally get what you pay for. There are exceptions. Kiton is overpriced, but I still quite like it, because I have found some of their fabrics/cuts to be second to none. Hemrajani is underpriced - he is ridiculously cheap, on time, and accomodating of stupid requests, and the fit is perfect, or he makes it perfect, with a process that could not be easier or more efficient.

    The folks who patronize LH - are they overpaying by a bit? Yes, by a bit. But, by and large, the product is excellent, and the higher price often forces one to be disciplined and less experimental with fabrics and cuts. If you're going to spend LH money, you want something that will stand the test of time.

    On the other hand, I see a lot of members of the forvm patronizing cheaper tailors, swearing by them up and down (defensively, for some boggling reason, as if they have to defend the honor of these guys in the face of imagined threats from tailors who have no trouble getting business at a price point $3k north of the price their beloved neighborhood tailor charges), and ordering some of the most God-awful commissions ever. 18 months later, see it on B/S.

    Mafoofan's assertion that NYR has probably spent more on clothes is probably not completely accurate (just guessing, obviously), but makes a valid point: expensive tailors force discipline, unless you're stupendously rich. It becomes a quality-not-quantity game (unless you're whnay - the pic of that guy's closet makes me understand the true meaning of his signature).

    If you like your tailor, stick with him, but it's silly to compare him to another unless you have commissions in hand from both tailors and can speak intelligently about the key differences.
     
  20. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    famous

    Has little puggy become a bunny?

    I may need to seek Manton for stalker advice.

    - M
     

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