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Altering the amplitude of notch in a lapel?

Viserys

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I don't think this has ever been discussed before.

I was wondering to what extent one could alter the amplitude of the angle of the notch lapel in a finished garment. More specifically: I have inherited a sports coat from my grandfather, in very nice flannel material, that was made by a local (=countryside of Tuscany, Italy) in the early 70s.

Nicely enough, the cut is nice and has little bearing with the usual 70s aestethics but, unfortunately, the lapels have a funky shape. They are not excessively wide, but the notch has a weird angle, too acute for my taste. It is one of those features that dates a garment immediately and lets you identify it as beloning to a certain era.

Since I like the jacket a lot, I wonder if some alteration could be carried over with success, namely I would like to "open up" the notch of a few degrees. I believe that the best way to do that is to cut a small triangle out from the collar portion, and then finish the new edge so that the notch now bears a 90 degree amplitude. Here are a couple of pictures:
2hhghuo.jpg

On the right you can see the suggested alteration - if ever possible.

Do you think this is feasible and, more importantly, would it improve the look of the lapel?
Thanks!
 

ThomGault

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I think that once the suggested operation were performed, you'd always notice that the notch looks unnaturally large. I'd leave it as is and wear it with pride.
 

Anachronist

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Personally, I agree with ThomGault as I believe style is something more permanent and shouldn't be tied to current whims of fashion.

However, to answer your question if you do, at all cost want to alter the lapel: yes, it can be done and actually quite simply and any decent seamstress can do this alteration for you, even handsewn if yu ask for it (which I would recommend if the rest of the suit has been handmade). If it was hand tailored, you'll notice that the cloth of the collar has been folded around the edge of the upper lapel notch's edge. This was originally intended for the less wealthy population to permit reopening the collar and turning the fabric around if it was worn on the outside in former times and has ironically become a trademark of handtailored suits. The threads of this 'flap' need to be opened together with a bit of the seam afixing the collar fabric to the stiffener below. The latter is then cut at the desired angle (together with any further stiffening material inside), the 'flap' is then recut to properly fit the new angle and sewn on again by hand.
 

maxalex

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That is called a fish mouth lapel. It is not indicative of the seventies but rather a style favored even today by some European tailors. It should be simple to change as others suggest, but I don’t see the need. It’s subtle enough yet, to a discerning eye, expresses the workmanship of an individual.
 

Viserys

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Thank you for the useful comments, I really appreciate that! I think that I will eventually leave it as original and I will see how I feel wearing it.

By the way, I think the angle is too wide to consider it a fishmouth lapel; moreover, usually such style works well with narrower lapels, these are almost 4'' wide. Anyway, I'm not a fan of fishmouths, even if narrow, balanced and favoured by designers, hence my question.
 

GBR

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I'd leave it alone, looks fine and suits the coat generally.
 

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