Altering functioning sleeves?

[Stephen Daedalus]

I just purchased a Costume National sport coat with sleeves that are quite a bit long, by at least an 1.5", and will have to be shortened. Though the sleeves have functioning buttons, the bottom two button wholes have not actually been cut, only the top. Was this done to make it possible to alter it from the buttom or will I need to have the sleeves shortened from the top?

This is my first post, so thanks for any help.

 

[mack11211]

First of all, welcome.

Second, 'holes' not 'wholes.'

Third, CN has great styling generally but the button/hole design you describe is foolishly trendy. It has become more popular in the last few years as more and more RTW jackets have included working buttonholes, foolish enough in itself as this means the only way to keep the buttons the right distance from the sleeve cuff is to alter the sleeve from the shoulder, which I would recommend to you. Then you should have the last two buttonholes cut, so you have four working on each sleeve.

Perhaps you can alter from the sleeve cuff, folding the excess material away from the working buttonholes, but perhaps not. A photo would show more.

Many English bespoke coats have the reverse of what you have -- of four buttons, the bottom two work, but the upper two do not. This too is to allow easier alteration.

 

[Luc-Emmanuel]

Alter from the shoulder. It's the only option you have and I have done it many times on my numerous CN items.

!luc

 

[A Harris]

Second, 'holes' not 'wholes.'

If they haven't been cut yet, perhaps "wholes" is appropriate

 

[DocHolliday]

If by bottom you mean closest to the cuff, and depending on button placement, it may be possible to avoid altering at the shoulder. Faux button stitching can be removed without leaving a mark from most fabrics. The key is whether the working holes will be in the proper place when the sleeve is shortened.

 

[Stephen Daedalus]

Thanks for the replies.

Although it is the two button holes closest to the cuff which haven't been cut yet, the sleeves are so long that to have it shortened to the proper length I would have to do without two buttons. I guess I naively assumed the RTW jacket would've been made with some leeway for alterations, especially because they seem to only be sized by chest and not length.

Btw, the jacket is a euro size 44, which fits me more like a slim 36/46, except that the sleeves are enormously long. I'm only 5'10" which I assume is generally a regular length coat, but perhaps I have short arms. Are Costume National pieces known for awkward sizing?

 

[zjpj83]

As others have suggested, shorten from the shoulder. A good tailor can do this. I have had it done once or twice.

 

[lawyerdad]

Originally Posted by Stephen Daedalus

Thanks for the replies.

Although it is the two button holes closest to the cuff which haven't been cut yet, the sleeves are so long that to have it shortened to the proper length I would have to do without two buttons.

This probably results from my lack of expertise (an understatement) but I'm having trouble picturing this and understanding what you're saying here. Why would you have to "do without" two buttons? If you shortened from the cuff, you might lose those two faux buttonholes, but couldn't the buttons themselves be reattached above (closer to the shoulder) the two functioning button holes, which will now be on the "bottom"?

 

[Stephen Daedalus]

The buttons are all functioning, but the holes for the the two buttons closest to the cuff haven't been cut yet - they aren't really faux buttons. I'll try and post a pic, because the sleeves on this jacket seem a little unique. That is, the buttons are on the inside of the jacket sleeve, and not actually visible as on a typical coat, but there is a **** (opening?cuff? I'm not sure what it's called) that the buttons are meant to attach and keep in place. So there really wouldn't be a reason to move the two buttons up the sleeve, as they wouldn't serve any purpose or be visible. It sounds like shortening it from the shoulder will be the only way to keep the original design intact.

 

[lawyerdad]

Okey dokey. Regardless, I hope the alteration works out.

 

[a tailor]

that opening is called a "vent".
your description is confusing. are the two bottom buttons inside the vent?
shortening from the top is your best solution.

 

[Teacher]

Welcome, Stephen!

It sounds like those button holes are, in fact, not functional, as they have not yet been cut. If this is the case, then it is no problem to alter from the sleeve and move the button hole stitching (and the subsequent -- or prior! -- hole that will be cut). If all the buttonholes are, however, truely functional, then the alterations come from the sleeve head, as suggested before.

 

[Luc-Emmanuel]

Originally Posted by Teacher

Welcome, Stephen!

It sounds like those button holes are, in fact, not functional, as they have not yet been cut. If this is the case, then it is no problem to alter from the sleeve and move the button hole stitching (and the subsequent -- or prior! -- hole that will be cut). If all the buttonholes are, however, truely functional, then the alterations come from the sleeve head, as suggested before.
they are. All CN have 4 functional buttonholes, and the first two are cut through which makes altering from the shoulder the only option. What he means by "inside" is just a design used by CN who hide sleeve buttons just like what you would find on a pants button fly.

!luc

 

[Stephen Daedalus]

Luc-Emmanuel has definitely captured what I was trying to say. It looks like I'm off to a decent tailor in San Francisco, because my only local tailor was bewildered by the garmet and told me I should just return it. Thanks again for all the replies, this forum is a wealth of information.

 

[Despos]

That the buttons are not exposed but are under the vent of the sleeve is a significant detail. First, the bottom two are not cut so that the sleeve may be shortened from the bottom and then remake the buttonhole above the two cut holes. The issue with your jacket is that after shortening 1 1/2" the open part of the vent is too short and there is no cloth above the vent to legthen this opening. Because this is a type of "fly" styling it really does not matter. My suggestion is lose the two lower buttons ( they don't even show) have the sleeve shortened from the bottom in the normal fashion. If you shorten from the top you run the risk of having a crappy job done, and the sleeve becoming too tight. The lower you go down on the sleeve head the narrower the sleeve becomes. You lose width at the head of the sleeve. Regardless of which method you choose the results will look the same because the buttons are covered and not exposed.