Allen Edmonds vs Martegani sizing

[Florian Gray]

Generally speaking, if I am a US size 10D in almost every AE, what am I in Martegani and Paul Smith?

I've bought shoes that are way too big assuming I was a 10D in both these brands.

Thanks

 

[Cary Grant]

Message "RIDER" here for exact details. Depends a bit on the shoe last and the width of your foot. Generally speaking, size down 1/2 size from AE to Martegani. For example: 10D in AE, 9.5 in Martegani.

 

[Sebastian]

This depends on the specific last of both, AE and Martegani.

Generally I've noticed, that some Marteganis run a half size big.

But depending on where you buy, you may be able to get professional advice.
If you buy at one of Ron Riders businesses, he will be glad to help you with the last and sizing comparison. He is a member here and I guess he will also answer PMs.

 

[bmulford]

From Rons blog:

Wow, broad question……for Martegani, it is extremely difficult to give a general commentary on lasts since we have around 60 in regular use. However, for the North American market, I generally use 3B, 75 and 7Y.

3B - our most popular last (Lucca2 and Pisa are more than 50% of our overall business) is almost a boot cut last - high instep, elongated toe box that is slightly squared off - and generally fits 1/2 size larger than the typical ‘American’ fit/size.

75 - an increasingly popular last (thanks to the sales/special orders of Siena) that would be sized 1/2 lower than 3B, if you start with that, or right on a typical US size. Still a little stretched in the toe, but that’s pretty much the Martegani style I show here.

7Y - A nice chisel toed last that can fit a little snug for wide feet, and I have heard stores saying they sometimes actually fit 1/2 size up, but experience in the shops in Richmond say it is sized same as 75 - start with the scale size, in other words.

For Rider Boot Co. lasts, I use the more classic lasts found in Cortina’s library - 4A, 42 and 95.

4A - My favorite last for a classic ‘American’ toe…..I probably like it so much because it reminds me of one of the Johnston & Murphy lasts when they really knew how to build a line…..the old Aristicraft shoes ‘Woods’, ‘LaSalle and ‘*****’ (forget the name of a captoe)….kind of a shark nosed last with a higher wall that comes off updated, but not boring. Fit is right off the Brannock, generally.

42 - A rounder toed last with a slightly higher instep measure and a bit of a toe bump. This last works equally well with heavy patterns (wingtips that are perfed and pinked) and wholecuts/plaintoe’s. It holds a heavy sole detail particularly well, and fits pretty ‘normal’…..maybe a D+ depending on your instep.

95 - Is a very round toed last, a little shorter than 42, and with more volume. You should fit this last the same as 42, but the boot will fit more close….not as much toe room, in other words. A nice, heavy, casual last, IMO. For me, it is just for this Chukka Boot, but the factory has made classic shoes on it.

 

[Shantanu]

Originally Posted by Florian Gray

Generally speaking, if I am a US size 10D in almost every AE, what am I in Martegani and Paul Smith?

I've bought shoes that are way too big assuming I was a 10D in both these brands.

Thanks

Paul Smith sizes are UK sizes, so a UK 9 is a US 10......and they run large too, by about half a size.

 

[Florian Gray]

Thanks for the thorough responses!