Allen-Edmonds - varying leather quality?

[deaddog]

I'm trying to decide between the AE Strand and the AE Sanford (new version on the 7 last). The calf leather quality on the Strand seems better the Sanford seem a bit plasticky and shiny. Both shoes are BNIB, Strand in Walnut and Sanford in black. Anybody notice a difference like this between AE models or am I crazy?

 

[The Louche]

My relatively unskilled eye has seen differences over the years. I've seen this both within, and between their lines.

For example, my Park Aves are about 6 years old; the leather seems distinctly nicer to me than a pair of Park Aves I inspected at the AE store recently.

And of course the leather on the Everette pennies that I bought recently is not as nice as other AEs I have. This is to be expected, though, because they are from the "AE by Allen Edmonds" line thats made someplace outside the USA I believe.

 

[deaddog]

Thanks - both of these shoes are Made in USA and both are (I believe current). Oddly, the Sanborn (with perceived lower quality leather) is more expensive (325 msrp vs 295). Unfortunately, the Sanborn seems to fit me a bit better through the ball

 

[DocHolliday]

Looks to me like AE is now using spray-on finishes. There have been some threads showing it cracking and flaking off too.

 

[deaddog]

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

Looks to me like AE is now using spray-on finishes. There have been some threads showing it cracking and flaking off too.

Does "spray-on finish" mean what it sounds like - they're shellaking the shoes? Anybody know whether this is true? Maybe its back to shopping for Aldens
Thanks

 

[pgd3]

Originally Posted by deaddog

Does "spray-on finish" mean what it sounds like - they're shellaking the shoes? Anybody know whether this is true? Maybe its back to shopping for Aldens
Thanks

I wouldn't get too reactionary off the bat.

There are in existance shoes that you would refer to as "rectified grain" basically a spray paint of leather grain look.

I do not believe that this is something you will find in Allen Edmond, personally since leathers are natural products I would examine any shoe before buying for flaws or blemishes, which should of course be corrected in quality control.

 

[DocHolliday]

I don't know what to make of it, honestly. Maybe they want patination without having to apply it by hand. This would be a quick and cheap alternative. The quality of the leather beneath the spray could be okay. I dunno. I haven't bought any lately to speak to it. I'm just going by the shoes I've handled in the shops.

That said, this combined with the recent talk that AE has offshored some production and is relasting the shoes in the U.S. has me nervous. I like AE and want to see them stay true to their roots.

Personally, the fact that we've had more than one report here of the finish flaking off -- with pictures -- would be enough to deter me from rolling the dice on a pair. But I suggest anyone interested do a search and make up his own mind.

 

[viator]

I have three pairs of AEs. One is the Burbank loafer in black purchased in June 2009. The other two are seconds purchased in October/November of 2009 and 2010, both in brown burnished calf. The brown burnished calf leather seems of significantly lower quality than the black leather on the Burbank. I doubt this has to do with the fact that the brown ones are seconds.

I think it must have something to do with the way they are finishing the burnished calf - it almost looks like there is a darker color (black?) with the brown color applied over it.