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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

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  1. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

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    I'm compiling a list of all the wholecuts AE has released in the past. So far I've got:

    Astor
    Fairfax
    Greenwich
    Hastings
    Manhattan
    Westgate

    I bet I'm missing a lot more names.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013
  2. TheSizzle

    TheSizzle Senior member

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    I really wish I'd scooped a pair of Greenwich back in the day. I just happened to be too young to notice it at the time. At least I got the Hastings.

    I believe the Austin was darn close to a wholecut as well (it's pretty much a wholecut with a thin piece of foxing at the rear).
     
  3. Variatio

    Variatio Well-Known Member

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    Mee too, I am thinking about which Cambridge to get. The black is IMO a must-have-standard, OTOH I do love the Burgundy color. BTW indeed I need a different width with the Cambridge and the McTavish: The McTavish fits well in 11.5D (as e.g. the Strand does) while the Cambridge needs to be 11.5E. Anyone has an idea?

    Regarding the size, maybe someone has an additional hint: I am about to purchase some more Cordovans, i.e. Randolph and Patriot. As they have pretty much their own lasts could anyone pls give a recommendation how they fit compared to the Cambridge?
     
  4. elbastardocalvo

    elbastardocalvo Senior member

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  5. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    I don't have experience with those exact models, but my AE handsewn experience is that they run a half-size shorter than the balmoral/blucher shoes. A 9EEE in every handsewn I've tried has been too short/narrow to even get on my foot, but 9.5EEE's have fit perfect. I wear 9EEEs in Mcallisters and Finch.
     
  6. Cold Iron

    Cold Iron Senior member

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    Congrats! I tend to agree with the Mac method and use very little product of any kind if possible. I do apply several thin coats of wax on some shoes that I decided to wear in weather that is wet such as snow or rain however. This is from his blog however not quite accurate. He has posted many times that he brushes each shoe for ~15 minutes and that the brush always stays in contact with the shoe while brushing. As he says it is all in the wrist.


    Thanks to the inherent beauty and durability of shell cordovan leather, proper care is not difficult. Adhering to the steps outlined below will ensure top-notch maintenance of your shoes, allowing them many, many years for your enjoyment:

    1. After each wear, wipe down the shoes with a damp cloth.
    2. Using a horsehair brush, brush each shoe vigorously for 2-3 minutes.
    3. Using a cotton cloth, buff the shoes to a high shine.
    4. Use paste wax sparingly, only when the shoes are in great need. We recommend paste wax only, after every 20 wears. When you must use paste wax, use a very small amount (dime size).
    5. Do not use creme wax.
    6. If the shoes get wet, do not attempt to dry with a hair dryer or other heating source. Instead, stuff with shoes with newspaper, turn them on their sides, and allow them to sit overnight. The next day, remove the papers and perform steps 1-3 above.
    7. If water welts appear from exposure to water, brush vigorously with a horsehair brush. Welts will usually disappear over time.
    8. To guard against water damage, apply Alden Leather Defender.
    9. Other beneficial products for your shell cordovan are Venetian Shoe Creme and Saphir Renovateur. Both should be used sparingly.
    10. Any scratches to the shell cordovan leather should be vigorously brushed with a horsehair brush. Use a bit of paste wax if the scratch is very deep.
    11. Maintain the shoes with a proper heel and sole dressing.
    12. Do not wear the same pair of shoes two days in a row. Allow the shoes a day of rest, with cedar shoe trees inserted to absorb moisture.

    Break-in Procedures

    It is important that you break in brand new Alden shoes in the proper way. In order to ascertain if you have purchased the proper size, and if the last is suitable for your foot, we recommend the following break-in procedures:

    1. Before wearing the new shoes outside, wear them on a carpeted surface.
    2. Allow three wearings, for a few hours at a time.
    3. After the third wearing, you should be able to tell if you have purchased a last suitable for your foot, in the correct size.
    4. Carpeted wearing will also allow the shoe to break-in and flex a bit easier so that on your first wearings
    outside, the front section of the leather sole does not take on too much stress and wear.

    Bowing if it is bad enough can not be repaired. Minor bowing can be tightened some during recrafting but only to a certain extend. You need to send them to AE to let them determine if it is outside specifications. At least that has been my experience. I have had shoes on the 1 and 8 last both bow and returned them in each case. It is the first thing I check for in a new pair of shoes when I get them.
    Shell often, but not always, fits just slightly larger than calf. Not enough that I have ever changed sizes though. I am a 10D in 1 and 5 last for both calf and shell including the Cambridge. McTavish, Elgin and Black Hills are all 3 rough collection and I wear a 9.5D in those. Many people have sized down a half size for rough collection shoes and it usually works. But feet can vary a lot so it is hard to say always and going down a width can also work for some people. Depends on the foot.

    Have only had my shell Patriot's (TTS) since Saturday so not an expert on them by any stretch of the imagination. They have a number of bad reviews on the AE website due to being uncomfortable and tight. I noticed that a few people who dinged them said they have a high instep. A high instep means a high volume foot, I have a very low volume foot on the other hand, and my left foot is just slightly larger than my right foot. Using black superfeet inserts in the Patriot's which increases volume my left foot after a couple of hours does get sore from the strap and too much tension. Removing the inserts they are fine. So I could see how a high volume foot may have a problem with the Patriot in your normal size.
     
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  7. bucksfan

    bucksfan Senior member

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    Edit^^ nice detail, Cold Iron. We were posting at the same time.


    I take the same size in my shell Randolphs as all my other shell AEs - 12D. I don't have any experience with the Patriot, however. It feels to me like AE made their 9 last (Randoph) shorter than the 5 last (Cambridge, PA, others) in the same size, probably so that the loafers on this last could fit well in the same size as their lace-ups on other lasts.

    I'll also add that the full-strap design of the Randolph means it won't stretch much across the top of your foot. If you have a high-volume foot (as described above) you may have problems with the Randolph. I have a medium volume foot, and the first few wearings were tight, then it started to loosen up.

    Ideally, go somewhere you can try them on... Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013
  8. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Senior member

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    You must be very tall. All your pictures of shoes look like you are taking them from ten feet away.
     
  9. Close Hoarse

    Close Hoarse Senior member

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    AE discontinued the bourbon polish in a tube. I use it on my bourbon and bone spectators. If you'd like a tube, PM me.

    CH
     
  10. elbastardocalvo

    elbastardocalvo Senior member

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    6'4". Makes my size 14eee's look small.
     
  11. mexicutioner

    mexicutioner Senior member

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    CA all day
    

    bumping this post from a few weeks ago.

    same situation as MWS: went into nordstrom rack to see if they had anything good, saw the Rawlins model in brown leather. looked really nice, wish it had been a 10.5 instead of a 10D. it's on the 8 last too, which everyone loves. the AE website has it on clearance in black leather, but no more info. anyone know anything about this model's history?
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013
  12. sazon

    sazon Senior member

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    Strand-lovin today in dark brown shell cordovan. Olive undertones really starting to come through when the photo is taken with a flash.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013
  13. spitshine123

    spitshine123 Senior member

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    Beautiful strands. Try bar-lacing or european bar lacing, i think it will make the shoes look cleaner (just my opinion). I am jealous of all you guys with low insteps that can bring the quarters together like this. My AE bals always have some gap despite fitting in the footbed
     
  14. sazon

    sazon Senior member

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    Thank you. Agree on the clean look of bar lacing but I can never seem to get a good snug fit with that method. Any suggesstions?
     
  15. spitshine123

    spitshine123 Senior member

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    I usually do this with my bals http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/straighteuropeanlacing.htm. The normal bar lacing method isn't snug enough for me either
     
  16. nickrut

    nickrut Senior member

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    You have some wide ankles.
     
  17. tjyoung

    tjyoung Senior member

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    Hi All, I posted this over the weekend but it just was allowed up today by the moderators and it's several pages back, so I'm reposting because I want your opinions!
     
  18. Michael Haines

    Michael Haines Senior member

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  19. Variatio

    Variatio Well-Known Member

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    Quote: Funny enough, my experience is just the opposite: Strand calf and McTavish fits remarkable larger (i.e. wider) then the Cambridge cordovan. OTOH my Lubbock 11.5D, as well one of the rough collection shoes, does fit very tight, I would most probably get an 11.5E if I would buy it again.

    Unfortunately there is not one single retailer around where I could try them, I already went to 3 cities and ten shops in total, of which none even carried the Randolph or the Patriot, let alone try them on in different sizes. Furthermore, no retailer in Germany usually has any other width then "E" in stock so you are left in the dark anyway. Plus, there is as well no online shop carrying those models. Pretty annoying. [​IMG]

    What I could try were Aldens 986 (similar to the Patriot) and 684 (similar to the Randolph) and found that the 986 in 11E still is a bit too large (wide) and the 684 in 11.5E just fits. Although I am aware that this means nothing regarding the AE lasts I just wanted to let you know FYA. [​IMG]
     
  20. Firefox

    Firefox Senior member

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    I'll check them out in-store if I can. But I do like the look of your bourbon strands. If I do end up buying strands at some point, I think I'd prefer the bourbon colour over walnut. Looks nice!

    Good point; I had forgotten that Strands were bals.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013
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