Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

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  1. BootSpell

    BootSpell Senior member

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    Very well said!! Thanks for reinforcing that and reminding me not to be so obsessed about holy grails.
     
  2. sevenfoldtieguy

    sevenfoldtieguy Senior member

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    This is a true statement, and variety is always nice. Last night: Alden color 8 shell NST Boots; Today: John Lobb Cavendish (black calf wingtip balmoral); tomorrow: AE dark brown shell Leeds.

    Oh, and the answer to the question: sometimes. :D
     
  3. mikeman

    mikeman Senior member

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    So, I finally got my Urban Daddy Gramercy Different that the other pair posted-- at least they appear to be way different. Thoughts?
    Bad iPhone photos.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  4. charliebrown2

    charliebrown2 Senior member

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    I'm 7.5E on the infamous 5 last (Strand).

    1)What size is recommended for me on the casual Neumoks (also 5 last)? Do I need a different size because of the material difference?

    2) Also, size recommendation on the Elgin (also 5 last and different material)?

    Thanks
     
  5. Papa Doble

    Papa Doble Senior member

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    I've been thinking more about this lately. It's easy to become obsessed with a particular brand, and there's certainly nothing wrong with having a collection primarily of AEs (or Aldens, or C&J, or ...), but variety is indeed nice.
     
  6. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    I'll chime in here as well since I really enjoy this topic of conversation. Everything Bucksfan said is quite right. The difference between AE and the "nicer" shoes like John Lobb and Edward Green is in the details until you cross the line of bespoke shoes. There are a good number of threads on SF that are rather amusing to read with people battling out the pros and cons of different manufacturers. It is also crucial to define "quality" before embarking on such a discussion. I think there is a difference between "quality" and "craftsmanship." Quality being the durability of the shoe, its ability to withstand the test of time and use. Craftsmanship being the attention to detail, or how refined the shoe looks as a work of art. I don't think that even the most diehard AE fans can really argue that the Lobbs and Greens, etc., are at a different level of craftsmanship. However, the quality of the AE's is within acceptable tolerances. I don't think you will get more walking miles out of Edward Greens over your AE's. Afterall, the concrete that you are walking on doesn't care about what your shoes are, it will grind down leather without discrimination.[​IMG] It takes somewhere on the order of 200 different steps to make a quality goodyear welted shoe, and this holds true for all brands (AE claims 212 steps, Lobb claims 190). There are ways to slash quality while still using the goodyear welted process, such as using fiber or leatherboard insoles rather than natural leather. I tend to go after the AE's that use the full natural leather insole to eliminate a weak link. As Bucksfan touched on, the smaller shoe manufacturers put in the time to make sure all the stitching is perfect, heels smooth, broguing straight, etc. Edward Green, for example, uses pig bristle to sew their uppers together rather than sewing machines with needles. This allows for smaller holes and tighter stitching (more stitches per inch). It is noticeable to the shoe enthusiast's eye, but not to the general public. All of this is what you are paying a premium for above the cost of a pair of AE's. I think it is generally safe to say that as long as you are wearing a goodyear welted shoe made by any of the "SF approved" manufacturers, you have a shoe that will last as long or longer than any others with the exception of the hand-welted shoes. All that said, there is a case that can be made that once you cross the line of bespoke shoes (or any hand-welted shoe with a holdfast rather than gemming) you have entered into a higher realm of quality. The debate then goes to how frequently gemming fails in the real world and whether it is worth the price jump to get into hand-welted and bespoke shoes.
     
  7. Papa Doble

    Papa Doble Senior member

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    This is a good way to put it.

    Kind of reminds me of the argument that the welting some see on shell when exposed to rain changes the shoe cosmetically, but not its longevity.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2012
  8. mexicutioner

    mexicutioner Senior member

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    nice. what leather are they? brown CXL?
     
  9. mikeman

    mikeman Senior member

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    Thanks! tTo be honest, I am not sure what kind of leather it is, though, Im not very well versed in leathers... yet.
    Is CXL just horweens name for their calf? Does AE source their leather(other than shell) from Horween?

    Lastly, how would you guys care for these, as far as polish and stuff goes? Just hit them with some reno or venetian shoe cream?
     
  10. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    CXL is more of a tanning recipe than a particular hide, it is not just their name for calf. See Horween's article: http://horween.wordpress.com/2010/03/23/chromexcel®-2/. AE does source alot of their leather from Horween (Shell Cordovan, CXL, and Dublin to name a few). As for the other questions, I'll leave that to someone with more experience with it.
     
  11. kentyman

    kentyman Senior member

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  12. kentyman

    kentyman Senior member

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    I wonder what polish to use, then. I hear the old Bourbon is different (though I bought some on clearance). They still don't have a new Bourbon polish. Would using Walnut be the closest thing? The worry is it would lighten it to just plain Walnut over time.
     
  13. DJTraveler

    DJTraveler Senior member

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    Don't use the walnut polish. That will definitely lighten them. For now I would use Saphir Reno to give them a good conditioning and polish. Maybe AE will come out with a bourbon polish in the future.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2012
  14. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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  15. charliebrown2

    charliebrown2 Senior member

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    ^ Bump. Thanks.
     
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