Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.
What do you mean by "flat"?
As in black is a flat color?
Really, the color on the website is so much darker, talking about the walnut color.
To be fair, the dark brown is not at all black in person. That, and black is technically not a color...
I wear 14/15 depending on the shoe. After a dozen years of wearing AE, my philosophy is to try on every shoe and try to try on 3 sizes to make sure that I am getting the best fit. Even then, some lasts and models just don't work.
Also, the only AE that I have found to give at all with "break in" are the shell MacNeil I bought this year. Others might have softened but not loosened.
Reread your previous post and now I understand.
I am a long time AE fan. I also own some Aldens and various Italian brands so I am no way a brand loyalist nor a total snob. I just buy stuff of good quality that I like. That being said, there are two areas where I think AE is really fallling short, curious if you agree.
1) Lack of suede offerings. It used to be that AE offered quite a few of their mainstay dress shoes in suede as a standard offering. I just searched on suede today and the only thing that came up were the Players in limited sizes (because they are being discontinued) and some items from the rough collection. I am wearing my vintage 2007 Seude Delrays as I type and they look as good as the day I bought them. They don't crease and with minimal care hold up better than calfskin, in my opinion. You can order them as a custom, but for a $100 mark up. Seems ridiculous. And the fact that they are cancelling the players after such a short run is kind of annoying; everyone raves about them and they are a great, fashion-forward but classic shoe.
2) The "painted" black welting and edge trim, particularly on their shell offerings. For example, on the burgandy Leeds, the edgetrim and welting are painted black. It makes a $600 shoe look like a $50 throw away. A natural edge trim or dark brown, to me, looks much more refined. They are doing this on the black McTavish, which I own and is a really good look. I just wish AE paid more attention to this aspect of their shoes. I think this is where they fall short next to Alden. Look at the profiles of an alden, and you can see each layer of the sole, you can see where the welting meets the outsole, how the heel is stacked up. Look at a profile of AE, and for the most part you see a paint job covering up all the details of a welted shoe. I don't think this is a cost issue as much as a design, or lack of design, issue.
I don't know if it is any consolation, but here are some special make-ups from Allen Edmonds for other companies.
Grayson in Snuff or Black Suede:
McNeil in Snuff Suede
Mora in Wheat Suede
They definitely are a good bit more expensive to do the Allen Edmonds Custom shoes though.
This has been my experience. I'm an 11.5 D on the 5 last, and I think most say you should be the same size on the 1 last. Both 11.5 D and 12 D Malverns were too tight in the toe box for me, and I gave up after that.
I wear 9D on the 5 last. A 9.5D in the Malvern was too tight for me. A 9D in the Malvern was unwearable.
Maybe this is a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyway since I like the idea of getting some chukka's at some point... Why didn't you just graduate up to the next size until you found one that was comfortable? Did sizing up make them fit poorly in other areas such that there was no combination that worked?
I wear an 11D in Strands/Park Aves and tried 11D and 11.5D in the Bayfields. The 11D was way too narrow and the 11.5D was too long. I also tried an 11D in the Malverns and they were too narrow. I'm waiting to receive an 11E in the Malverns and am hoping they fit well.
I talked to the AE CS about the Malvern when I ordered the Dundee's because I had the same experience. She said they used memory foam in the Malvern and that is why they fit totally different than the others on the same last.
Does anyone have both the Bayfields and the Daltons? Was curious how the fit is between the two. I assume they fit very similarly, but figured I'd ask.
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