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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

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  1. nbj08

    nbj08 Senior member

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    How much looser, in your opinion, do 65 bluchers fit vs 65 bals? Should I go a letter down?

    And how long, in your experience, is the "endless" break-in period for your PAs? I've worn mine around 5 times (for a full day) and they're still quite painful....
     
  2. Grumpton

    Grumpton Member

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    I have 65 bluchers (Bradley) and balmorals (Park Ave). They both fit me the same. There is some small variation in each shoe that could account for different experiences, and all my AE shoes are shells, so I don't think they stretch like calf does.

    If the shoes hurt your feet after a few wears, I'd suggest you got the wrong last. There are lasts that will always hurt my feet and I just stay away from them. One exception for me is when I get a shoe with double soles, the soles take a bit longer to get the stiffness out.

    IMO if your toes hurt, you can get the shoes stretched, but get a different last next time. If your hurting around the ankles, sit in front of the television for half an hour and hand flex the rear heel of the shoes and it should feel better next wear.

    IMHO
     
    Last edited: Sep 4, 2015
  3. coolarrow

    coolarrow Senior member

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    1 person likes this.
  4. nbj08

    nbj08 Senior member

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    It's strange: my 10.5D shell Cambridges fit me great. No pain at all. But my 10.5D PAs cut into the top of my feet, at the tongue of the shoe. Same last, different result.

    But I've worn my Cambridges about 20 times now; PAs only 5 times.

    I'm looking at a pair of Kenilworths, and am trying to figure out if I should stick with 10.5D

    Fwiw, I'm between a 10.5C and 10.5D on Brannock
     
  5. Moose22

    Moose22 Senior member

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    Then the Rogue is totally not for you.

    They're not "big" per se. They're the right size. But having worn a 333 for the day I can say the Rogues have more space on the entire instep, and being a blucher they'd be on the wrong side of the 333 shape for you.

    I bet a 201 bal would fit like a dream. I'm wearing a 333 bal now and after a day of wearing and about a half mile walk this evening I can close up the laces to about 3/4" on the right show and 1/2" on the left. Don't ask my why the right is tighter, I don't know if it's my feet or the shoes. But these will never be completely closed up, though they'll eventually be close enough for government work. There IS some pressure from my foot at the 2nd an 3rd eyelet. If these were bluchers they'd already fit like they were made for me, I'm sure.

    I'm convinced the difference with the 201 will make them easier to close on those first eyelets, so a perfect fit for me and a bal. The Rogues, as they broke in, didn't change much, but they had enough play I could bring the eyelets a touch closer to keep the fit perfect. You, on the other hand, would probably end up swimming around a bit with a blucher.

    heh -- it's amazing how much I know about my foot and shoes now that I didn't know 8 months ago, before I walked into my first AE store looking for fitting help.
    Quote: I'll be interested to hear Neo's personal take, but I didn't find blucher and balmoral really different in their basic size when I was trying everything on. The differences in the lacing were just amplified for me because the 65 last is NOT designed around my foot. If they are the right last for your foot, you should be about the same size in each.

    For me, I've got a high instep, and high closer to the toes. Weird shaped foot when stuffed into a 5 last. A lot better fit in the 201 last. In my case, specifically, since my instep comes up early the closed lacing on the PA means the first couple of eyelets closest to the toe cannot be spread a bit to ease the pressure on my instep. Basically, whatever the shape of the vamp is is what I'm going to get and so I get pressure on the top of my foot and it pulls the sides of the toe box in as well.

    With a blucher, you can open that area up near the toe just a bit more, and even stretch the vamp where it turns into the tongue a little with break in. Or you can pull the laces a little tighter as you need if it's loose. It's not much, but there is just a bit more room for sizing. You won't get that flexibility with a balmoral. They are just not quite as forgiving when the last doesn't match your foot well.

    Anyway, where does the PA hurt you? It most definitely shouldn't still hurt after 5 wears! The pair I'm wearing are a touch off from perfect for me, but one day and they're already noticeably better than this morning. My Rogues felt good an hour after I put them on and I walked a mile that same evening to break them in without too much discomfort. It takes longer to set your foot shape in the cork, but 5 days is more than plenty to do that, too. And 5 days definitely should have shown some improvement on the top.
     
  6. Kahuna75

    Kahuna75 Senior member

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  7. tharkun

    tharkun Senior member

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    Sorry to break into your conversation. I personally have yet to find a balmoral I can even get my foot into (unless I get them crazy big) and I gave up trying to. My Leeds 8 1/2 3E hurt the right pinky quite a bit after a day's wear (though fine in the morning). It didn't get better, even when the rest of the shoe was getting noticeably more pliable. I had to stretch out the toe overnight with socks around the tree and a little piece of leather in the right spot for the pinky toe. Since then, they're perfect.

    One thing I never paid attention to before was lacing. Ian's shoe lace site is really great. I always used the typical criss cross lacing and the top of my right foot always hurt when tying it tight enough to make me not slide around. Straight bar lacing however and just doing one crossing at the top (5 eyelets) and I can tie things completely shut and my foot feels great. YMMV
     
  8. JSO1

    JSO1 Senior member

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    Calf fits tighter than shell, hence your experience with 10.5D Cambridge vs. PA.
     
  9. Southwick

    Southwick Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the heads-up!
     
  10. BespokeBrooklyn

    BespokeBrooklyn Senior member

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  11. DGY1atTMW

    DGY1atTMW Well-Known Member

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    I feel ya here...

    I personally need/want a few new pair, but living in Canada with the current horrible exchange rate means a $127 pair of Patriots will cost me $250 $$$CDN by the time they get to my doorstep - so great price or not, it just doesn't make financial sense....sometimes, we must remember: they're only shoes after all.

    That said: I will always fall on the side of wanting a few "great" pair rather than a bunch of "good" pair - and Shell 1sts for $100 more definitely qualify...if it meant my next purchase gets put off another 3 months so I can get them, I'd get them, no question
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Grumpton

    Grumpton Member

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    This.

    I'm just going to add that if it's not the right last for your foot, don't buy the shoe.

    Yeah, you can get it stretched or whatever, but IMO if the shoe doesn't fit, don't get it. PERIOD.

    I won't comment further on bal vs bluchers fit. I guess I don't have that problem so am unqualified to comment other than the above.
     
  13. BespokeBrooklyn

    BespokeBrooklyn Senior member

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    Thanks for the tip! I just picked up a pair of black Adams loafers for $99!
     
  14. sleepyinsanfran

    sleepyinsanfran Senior member

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    to add to the sizing info - I've found suede bals in EEE (5 last) to fit a little tighter than calf bals in EEE

    Edit: corrected the number of "E"'s in comment, lol.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2015
  15. Odradek

    Odradek Senior member

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    Currently rural England
    


    Anyone know when the multicoloured Neumok web gems come round again?
    Isn't around October?

    I've been tempted the past two years but have never bought.
    The whole "web gems" section seems to have disappeared from the AE website too.
     
  16. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    I think "web gems" (special edition runs at reduced prices) are over. They now do "limited time" color or sole changes at full price.
     
  17. RitchieBro

    RitchieBro Senior member

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    EE fit tighter than EEE??
    Wow, that's a shocker![​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. CGKIII

    CGKIII Well-Known Member

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    The past (3? 4?) years have been in Februrary I believe, for delivery in time for the March college basketball hoopla. This past year had a more limited color range than prior, and with all the other MTO freezing I wouldn't get my hopes up too much for a repeat.
     
  19. sleepyinsanfran

    sleepyinsanfran Senior member

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    sry meant 5-last EEE bals in suede vs EEE bals in calf. But I guess that was low-hanging fruit for some online snark haha.
     
  20. misterellington

    misterellington Senior member

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    Jul 10, 2014
    They had a few larger sized Independence line shoes there. Glad you nabbed a pair!

    That's where I got my Stewarts, Jodox', Schautals, Sands', Gobis and Hollywoods. Spent about $800.00—got six pairs of AEs at that particular BCF. Hard to beat that kinda savings. :)

    Hollywoods and Stewarts (A VERY rare “Web Gem” and a rare Lands End SMU suede “Leeds” variant)
    [​IMG]


    Jodox (Formerly “Jomoc”)
    [​IMG]


    Gobis
    [​IMG]



    Schautals (Another weird off-the AE-site SMU that looks awesome)
    [​IMG]


    And my Sands' Pennies—made in the DR and thus, NOT eligible for recrafting, but still damned nice...
    [​IMG]


    All found there amidst “The Crazy”. The GOOD thing? After awhile, the nice stuff fairly jumps out at'cha from the surrounding awfulness, so you don't have to go rooting too far. :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2015
    3 people like this.
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