Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.
Beautiful! More shots of the neumoras in the wild please! Trying so hard to hold off right now
Very nice, how about a fit report?
more more more!!
I really need another pair of dark brown shoes and the neumoras have been the top of my list (sharing the top slot with the Cambridge actually...)
Congratulations. I have double monks in other brands because of a few differences but the Neumora is a nice contemporary move for AE. Wear in good health.
Well this is disturbing--the shoes arrived and they look nearly fantastic--they probably could have trimmed the soles a little closer to the shoe but they are nicely finished.
BUT--they are about a half size too big. I'm shocked as I normally wear a 10.5C--I tried on the shoe (albeit in suede) in both 10.5C and 11B (I can wear both) before ordering, and went with the 10.5C to avoid heel slip. These things fit like the 11B, but are marked 10.5C. They are just too loose. In fact, I have a pair of cordo Alden van last LHS in 11B and the AE's fit looser than those. I guess I'll take up the issue with C/S to see if they will do anything but I hate to bother them with a return on a custom order. But these do not fit the same as the suede McGraws I tried on in the same size. Strange.
Pretty strong coming flat out and saying I'm wrong. I beg to differ.
The handsewn shoes are also built on lasts - all AE shoes are built on lasts. Quote from AE site - "Handsewn Styles are constructed on one of six lasts. Look below to find the characteristics of each last"
The uppers are on the handsewns are sewn by hand vs machine sewn. That has nothing to do with how the sole is attached to the upper. Granted some handsewns are constructed via cemented construction - the sole is cemented to the upper. These cannot be recrafted.
Goodyear construction refers only to the attachment of the sole, not the construction of the upper.
Here is a description of the Sanibel, a handsewn shoe that is also Goodyear welted - The Sanibel is a handsewn Venetian-style slip-on by Allen Edmonds. With its pebble grain calfskin leather and and moc-toe, this slip-on is the epitome of casual refinement. Constructed with a 270° Goodyear welt and a Tempest leather/rubber combination sole the Sanible is flexible, durable and offers superior comfort. It has full leather linings and contrasting stitching detail.
Here is a description of the aforementioned Kenwood - The Kenwood VIP is a classic beefroll penny loafer by Allen Edmonds. This unlined loafer features a 270° welt, and Allen Edmonds Gentry leather on the upper.
Exactly. Women love these.
My girlfriend who is 29 is a huge fan of both but threw down a similar "wow" when she saw the Neumoks in person..
I purchased the Neumoks from the AE store on Michigan ave and the staff is quite pleased to have a "younger " customer base attracted to the newer Neumok/ridgeway models.
They remarked they had been seeing "different from the usual" buyers in and out of the store purchasing these as apparently the usual AE buyer tends to be on the more conservative side(at least here in Chicago).
This makes a ton of sense from the AE perspective as you're capturing buyers with $ in their early 30's who barring a bad experience, will be hooked/repeat customers for life.
At the same time, I personally don't find any of the AE models "too trendy" in a horrid Aldo/Kenneth Cole way beyond the patent leather Ridgeway web gem.
AE seems to have a nice selection of quality shoes that fit the needs of most customers tastes these days.
Noted that these are the end of my AE collection: "the Fairfax" in the light brown(chestnut?) which is also a beautiful shoe.
A+++for the Happy socks.
I'd also be interested in how they fit in comparison to the 5-last.
Is it possible to do a goodyear welt by hand? From what I have read, there is actually a machine that does goodyear welting. Just wonder what the qualifications are. I would think that as long as a pair of shoes had their sole stitched to a welt and the welt stitched to the upper they would be considered goodyear welted whether it is done by hand or by machine.
Still don't buy it. AE goes out of their way to differentiate between Goodyear shoes and hand welted shoes. There is also absolutely NO mention of Goodyear welting or 270° welting on AE's website about either shoe that you mention. Furthermore, they specifically say that some loafers in their classic line are NOT Goodyear welted in their 2012 collection catalogue. Quote, "The shoes in the Allen Edmonds Classic Collection* have been constructed by hand using our famous 212-step 360° Goodyear welt construction process." And the "*", "Some Classic shoes, such as loafers, use a handsewn construction technique outlined in the Casual section".
And then from said Casual section, "Along with our Goodyear welted casual shoes, many of our casual shoes are handsewns. Skilled artisans sew the vamp to the upper and kicker by hand, ensuring the two pieces of leather are aligned and sewn correctly to create the perfect fit". Absolutely no mention of Goodyear welting on the handsewns. Quite the opposite actually. Now, I will agree that their description doesn't say how the insole is attached to the upper, but they imply it's not by Goodyear welting. Furthermore, if you sort the shoes on their website by construction, showing only the 360° welted shoes, the Kenwood DOES NOT appear in the list. So either you are wrong, or AE has gone out of it's way to make it seem that the Kenwood is NOT Goodyear welted, even though it is, and even though they like to showcase Goodyear welting as a positive for their shoes.
Furthermore, here is the Product Q&A for the Kenwood. Please scroll down to the Ask and Answer tab, and note the question "DO THESE SHOES HAVE GOODYEAR WELT CONSTRUTION". Then note the answer - "The Kenwood is one of our handsewn styles, rather than being Goodyear welted. It is manufactured in our Port Washington, Wisconsin factory and is eligible for our recrafting service." Straight from the horse's mouth.
I received my first pair of Allen Edmonds yesterday...Vernon (8 last), 9E, black. They are beautiful, however are more than a bit tight around the outside toes and ball of the foot, also a mild heel slip.
Any ideas on what size to order to correct this?
I'm pretty sure it's called a Goodyear welt because it's done by a Goodyear machine. Not that it would be impossible to do this by hand or different way, but it wouldn't be a Goodyear welt unless it was made by the Goodyear machine. I don't know if this is correct or not, but it is my understanding of the situation.
This process of making shoes is referred to as Goodyear welt construction, as the machinery used for the process was invented in 1869 by Charles Goodyear, Jr. the son of Charles Goodyear. But I'm sure I'm wrong about this also.
I can tell you won't give me any credit about anything and you always have to be right, so I'm going to leave this one alone.
I only own the Dalton's in a 1-511 last but the fit seems comparable to the 3-333 Neumoras. I think the Daltons are a little roomier in the toe area though. I have wide feet and wear size E width.
Good eye catching those Happy Socks!
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