Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

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  1. NWTeal

    NWTeal Senior member

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    Yeah the players is pretty awesome, but I like the Marlow more. I might hold off and try and score the Marlow at the RL private sale. Decisions, decisions...

    The Players in calf or suede might still be on some seconds lists or maybe a few hanging around at some Nordstroms at a good discount in case you were interested.
     
  2. Gauss17

    Gauss17 Senior member

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    If the Marlow fits you, I think it is the better choice. However, if it does not or your are trying to "convince yourself" it fits, then the player's shoe in cordovan is a solid choice.
     
  3. JermynStreet

    JermynStreet Senior member

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    Brought home a winner. Go Cards!
     
  4. cincikid

    cincikid Senior member

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    This is a great question and you are right that AE's website is not particularly informative when it comes to the MTOs. If you read the inaugural post on the very first page of this thread and click on a link for the classic My Trip to Allen Edmonds a.k.a. The CEO Factory Tour post (http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/f...ad.php?t=95708) you will find out that AE can make "your shoes any way [they] offer shoes. Any soles with any heels any color." In theory, you would think you'd have an infinite number of combination, but in reality, while the choices are still pretty great, you are actually choosing from a finite pool of possible options.

    First, for you to get an MTO three general conditions need to be satisfied:

    1. AE should have a last for the shoe you want to build. This automatically eliminates some great old shoes made in the 1950s and 1960s (and possible before, but I have not been able to find the catalogues prior to 1952). This said however, I strongly suspect that their older lasts have been just renamed down the road. For instance, MacNeil was previously made on the Kent last, but the shape of it looks identical to the current 7 last.

    2. AE needs to have the materials from which to build you shoe (i.e. the leathers, the dyes, etc.)

    3. AE will only build it on the last, on which they build this shoe (i.e. they will only build Strand on the 5 last and MacNeils on the 7 last although I've seen the exceptions from this rule).

    Now, assuming these conditions are indeed satisfied, you can think of your own design (note, the order below is arbitrary).

    The first choice, obviously, is the leather for the uppers. For most folks, it boils down to either calf or shell cordovan. As far as the calf is concerned, AE can offer you virtually any possible type and color of the leather, from CXL (brown or black) to vegetable-tanned, to wax infused, to suede to nubuk, etc. Looking at the current offerings will be good enough to check the list of options that you could get. For the shell cordovan, things are more prosaic. Your choice narrows down to burgundy, black and dark brown. We were all told that AE will not be getting other colors, period. You also can't supply your own leather.

    The second choice is the welt. You can have it (from light to dark) in neutral, chili, brown, black and possibly some other shades in between. You can also have your welt wheeled, if you wish.

    The third choice would be your sole. First, you must decide whether you want a single or a double sole. Second, you will need to figure out the type of the sole. Most people who invest into an MTO get Cadillac sole, i.e. the JR. However, AE also offers Dainite, Butyl, Mini Lug, as well several Vibram soles. You can also get a Topy (V-tread) stitched to the outsole, if you chose a single sole. AE can add a midsole between the welt and the Dainite sole.

    The fourth choice is the color of the edge. You can have it (from light to dark) in neutral, transparent chili, chili, transparent brown, brown, and black. I am sure there might be some other shades that I am missing.

    Your fifth choice is the lining. For most people, it's no brainer, as the Independence lining is offered at no extra cost. However, other options may include AE standard lining (should you have any reason to opt for it), and some exotic colors, such as red and blue.

    Your six choice is the midsole. It's either full leather or poron. The choice here is so obvious, that you probably will not even be asked this question. (Hint: full leather is the real thing!).

    Now you are done with the essentials and could think of some bells and whistles. For instance, you can add the eyelets (e.g. tone on tone, black or brass), contrast stitching, laces of all sorts, etc. Keep in mind, that you can't provide AE with your own supplies.

    If I am missing something essential, I am sure others will add things up or correct me if I am wrong.
     
  5. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Does anyone have anything to say about the AE troy captoe?
     
  6. Subutai

    Subutai Senior member

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    Fantastic post. Amazing how much "stuff" comes off


    ps - tried spoilers to save space but couldn't get it [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2013
  7. tifosi

    tifosi Tire Kicker

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    What method did you use, bucks?
     
  8. tifosi

    tifosi Tire Kicker

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    put: [ spoiler ] before the img code and [ /spoiler ] after it. Do not put the spaces between the brackets and 'spoiler'. I just did that so it wouldn't hide my text.
     
  9. tietherope

    tietherope Senior member

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    I measure a 9.5D and a 10C/D on the Brannock. I tried on various 5 last shoes and it went like this:

    10D - Too long with extra room in the heel. No toe issues.
    9.5D - Same as above
    9D - Length and heel fits great. Pressure on the side of my toes.
    9E - Toes have no pressure. Heel has too much space, as much space as the 10D.

    I have two questions:
    1. How much pressure if any do you feel on the sides of your toes in a new pair of AE?
    2. What size would you try next based on the above attempts?
     
  10. jimney

    jimney Senior member

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    Has anyone gotten contrast stitching? Care to post a picture of the results?
     
  11. jch1

    jch1 Senior member

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    I actually like the very dark appearance of those burgundy shell kenwoods. If one wanted to darken their pair up a bit, would AE's cordovan cream/polish be appropriate?
     
  12. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    Those look way better. I know some people prefer with the darker color, but I'm with you on the base shell. I am going to actually reach out to Allison today and ask if they can leave that part of the finishing off of my orders, they don't need the extra color and cream.

    Also, easy way for people to add spoiler warnings: Just highlight the text you want to hide, and then click the black speech bubble on the message tool bar (it's the 6th button to the right of the "Size" menu. It will add the tags around whatever needs hiding.
     
  13. fiestaplatypus

    fiestaplatypus Senior member

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    I don't know whether to say sorry or you're welcome, but there actually was a 12D available. I was the one who took it.

    I'm generally somewhere in the realm of a 12.5E, but my 13D walnut shell Dalton's were far too large. Not sure if this is due to it being a boot (and thereby being a looser 1-last fit out of the factory to compensate for larger socks, etc) or if it has anything to do with the unlined shaft, but I think I can fit into the 12D based on how much room I had.

    If the pair doesn't work out for me, I'll be sure to keep you in mind. Especially after letting me know about the cappuccino mccalister/cambridge seconds.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2013
  14. tifosi

    tifosi Tire Kicker

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    I don't think that works on "mobile" though. Have to add the text on mobile.
     
  15. fiestaplatypus

    fiestaplatypus Senior member

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    I knew the amount of cream was excessive, but didn't think it was this bad.

    These started out looking like the new burgundy cordovan finishing and now actually appear to be the older style.
     
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2013
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