Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

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  1. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    There is a lot of truth to that. Unfortunately, it's sometimes the toughest question to answer, even by those who have been in the industry for many decades. There is such a shroud of secrecy around ingredients in shoe care products that it often comes down to anecdotal evidence and personal experience for what works best. It's frustrating to find the right answer. Also, a lot of it is about balance. One person may sparingly use a product that isn't as good as someone else who uses too much of a high quality product and end up with better results simply because they aren't over doing it. There are way to many variables to have one simple answer.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2013
  2. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    You are correct.
     
  3. tifosi

    tifosi Tire Kicker

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    How about smell? Does either VSC or Saphire mask that wonderful cordovan smell? Smell is only a slight concern, but I heard that VSC doesn't necessarily smell good while Saphire smells similar to honey. Can anyone comment on this?
     
  4. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

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    I believe I read somewhere that the reason Nick Horween recommends using VSC is that it's formula is basically the same as what Horween Shell is treated with before it gets into Alden/AE's hands, and its what several shell makers apply as well (Rancourt finishes their shells with VSC).

    On the topic of Mac Method and shell, don't take Mac as gospel. Shell is very resilient, and while some things aren't great to use on shell over and over, it will also not get ruined if you use petroleum oils or the wrong polish, or the wrong whatever. Those who follow Crane's method (basically the exact opposite of the Mac Method in terms of pampering shellS) knows that he very often uses a light mix of dish soap and water on his shells to get the grit and grime off before soaking them in boot oil and then sno-sealing them. And his boots look amazing. I have a pair of AE x Wolverine 744s that I've treated this way, and they look great (though not as great as his 721s, because he's crazy committed to brushing them to a high shine).
     
  5. tifosi

    tifosi Tire Kicker

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    So many things to consider. I do not have any leather conditioner at the moment and have not used anything on any of my shell or CXL yet.
    My perfect world solution would be something suitable on shell and CXL that I could physically go somewhere and buy. The only place really local to me would be a Redwing store. I wonder what they would carry?
     
  6. shartmann

    shartmann Senior member

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    Thanks for all the positive comments. Cold Iron, I was originally planning to go with the McAllister too, but had just purchased a burgundy McAllister and walnut Jefferson so thought I was getting heavy on wingtips. These were surprisingly comfortable for a first wearing. The leather seems to be extra soft and almost broken in already. Not nearly as stiff out of the box as some other shell pairs (my Leeds are over a year old and the shell still feel much stiffer, although the thicker sole may be contributing to this perception).


    I went with the same colors as the McAllister web gem from last year. I couldn't quite remember the details so asked Allison this morning. Her response:

    We used light brown transparent edge dressing with a chili welt and we also added wheeling and fudging to the welt to give it that “rolled” look.
     
  7. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

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    Thanks for all the info, MWS! Now I know there is a rhyme and reason for my brushing shoes before and after I wear them.

    As for conditioners: I don't recommend using Lexol on shell. I used a little bit on a pair of vintage Bostonians and it pulled the finish right out of the shoe. I'm still working on bringing back the shine and small tint of colour that was lost in comparison to the rest of the shoe. It really, really dulls the leather. This is the complete opposite of what I experience with calf/buffalo skin.
     
  8. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

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    I gotta be honest, it doesn't look so bad on the 3-last. But I'm not digging that the eyelets are limited to three. 4-5 eyelets would have been a better call, imo.
    Also, it would seem that the shoes are too narrow for your foot. The laces shouldn't come apart that widely.
     
  9. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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  10. ryansto

    ryansto Well-Known Member

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    I agree that a 4 eyelet would work better, and as long as the shoe creases properly, I'll be fine. I have the Neumora, and get some double creasing due to the elongated 333 last.

    The spread is just under an inch at the top of the "V", which I've found to be acceptable. If the shoe were too narrow, the topline of the shoe would gap around the throat from the pressure pushing the throat outwards. Basically, the spread isn't the only indicator. Also, as I'm sure you know, the upper is going to stretch quite a bit, allowing the eyestays to move closer together. When I first bought my Jeffersons, the spread was about 3/4". It has now stretched to the point that the spread only measures about 1/4".

    UPDATE: Interestingly enough, where most balmorals are lasted with the eyestay touching (if you've ever seen a pair being made, they use a plastic tie to keep the eyestays together while lasting), it seems that the Hanover is lasted with a natural "V".
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2013
  11. spitshine123

    spitshine123 Senior member

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    I agree. Its a little weird AE lasting quirk. I believe the old fairfax were lasted the same way. Doesnt look bad though
     
  12. AdamAdam

    AdamAdam Senior member

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    RL Saunders are on which last, please? Thanks.
     
  13. cincikid

    cincikid Senior member

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    I believe it's 2 last.
     
  14. BCer

    BCer Senior member

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    I emailed jville a while ago to ask what last the Saunders were on, and got the following reply: "it is close to our Regent Street, kind of snug in the heel but room in the toe box." Regent appears to be discontinued, but a little searching shows it was on the 4-234 last. Hope that helps. FWIW, I have a pair of Saunders in tan, and love them!!
     
  15. reidrothchild

    reidrothchild Senior member

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    So do you find that the Saunders fit true to size? I was under the impression that all the RL shoes were narrow in the toe box like AE's 2 last.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2013
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