Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

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  1. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    As an 11 3E I can tell you that that's not my experience . The 5 last is painfully narrow, and 3 is just right, and the 4 is even a little too roomy.
     


  2. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

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  3. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    + 1 , very useful information, learning everyday.
     


  4. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

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    Lol. I thought I knew all about shoes(apparently not!). I don’t see the cork foot bed. What I see is a thick leather insole that I thought was cork foot bed. Lol.
    I have ripped off the sock liner. Thank god I did. Have that much needed space inside. Thanks you for you in-depth information’s.
    And removing the insole underneath would be really hard. I would need professional tools. And in removing the insole one would have literally rip off part if not most of their shoes.

    Regs
    Ash
     


  5. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

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  6. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

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    Those look spectacular. Congratulations on the shoes! Unlike other walnut shells I've seen posted, this looks almost exactly like walnut calf. I'm impressed!
     


  7. DJTraveler

    DJTraveler Senior member

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    The Mora 2.0 is finally up on the website!

    [​IMG]
     


  8. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    Those are awesome! Wish I knew about these walnut MTOs since I would totally have ordered a pair of Bayfields. I assume these MTOs for walnut shell are no longer offered?

    Light shell is tricky because my experience is they tend to darken in time so maybe they will go away... however, that is a risk though.
     




  9. jch1

    jch1 Senior member

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    Shaker Heights also looks great.
     


  10. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Senior member

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    Very nice...
     


  11. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Then I am relieved for you!!! Indeed, ripping out your insoles would likely need a pair of needle-nose pliers at a minimum. Removing the sock liner is not a problem. The sock liner is primarily there to cover up nails that may be present in the shoes of some manufacturers. Allen Edmonds doesn't drive nails through the insole to secure the heel (I think they may be the only Goodyear-welted manufacturers that don't). Since all Allen Edmonds are 360 degree welted, the stitching is sufficient to secure the heel zone of the shoe. Allen Edmonds doesn't use sock liners in their regular line shoes, and in my opinion, they don't need to. I don't think the comfort difference is enough to warrant it.

    For future reference (and to prevent future confusion), here is what you would see if you ripped out your insole from the inside of the shoe:

    [​IMG]

    This photo is an Allen Edmonds shoe. The white strip is the canvas gemming that is fixed to the bottom of the insole before the shoe is assembled. If you rip out your insole, the gemming would remain embedded in the cork because of the stitches underneath it where the upper and welt are sewn (this is called the inseam). If you had worn your shoes without that strong thick leather insole, the cork and gemming would have started to squash up and become sloppy.

    Here is another photo that is useful for illustration:

    [​IMG]

    This is a cross section of an Allen Edmonds that has been cut in half. Here you are seeing the cork space under the insole after the insole has been pried up and the cork has been scraped out. You can see the white canvas gemming is just floating there. The upper and welt is stitched to it (as you see down in the bottom right corner of the shoe), but the cork is gone for illustration. This shows why your shoe would have started to distort and lose it's shape if you were to wear them after ripping out the insole. The cork sets up after being spread in the space, and effective packs all of the space under the insole. The cork is a thick paste (ground up cork mixed with a thick adhesive), and it helps maintain the integrity of the components during long years of wearing the shoe. Think of it like the pad and grout that is placed under a tile floor before the tiles are set.

    Contrary to popular belief, cork was not originally placed under the insole of Goodyear-welted shoes for comfort reasons. It is there for the purpose I just described above. Most hand-welted and bespoke shoes don't have cork, because they are made with much less space under the insole (the better the shoe maker, the flatter the underside of the shoe). If there is any space under the insole of a hand-welted shoe, it is generally filled with a thin piece of soft leather or felt. Marketing has taken hold in recent decades and has started spinning the cork primarily as a comfort measure, and it does indeed create a "custom like" imprint, which is nice, but that is strictly incidental.

    Here you see a couple of photos of hand-welted shoes before the sole is stitched on (photos are from Carreducker and DW Frommer):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Notice how flat and level the above photos are compared to this Goodyear-welted shoe (below) before the cork is placed to fill the void (this is an Edward Green shoe, with a wooden shank). This also shows the canvas gemming very clearly, as well as the inseam stitches (heavy white thread):

    [​IMG]

    All of this is the consequence of the Industrial Revolution, and the movement from making shoes by hand (hand-welting) to using machines (Goodyear-welting) in the latter half of the 1800's. These changes are the reasons that makers of hand-welted shoes shun Goodyear-welted shoes. A machine can't replicate the intricacies of a hand-carved and hand-stitched inseam.
     


  12. tietherope

    tietherope Senior member

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    There is a new McTavish in dark brown crackle leather.
    [​IMG]
     


  13. dailyazna

    dailyazna New Member

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    f you only have two pair of shoes, you should have a black pair [​IMG]
     


  14. rydenfan

    rydenfan Senior member

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    MWS, great post and super informative as always
     


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