Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

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  1. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

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    Hi Mate,

    I am understanding a little bit of the gemming now. Can you please explain a bit more how it has destroyed my shoes. I feel no difference. Does this means my shoes will fall apart (the welt/soles or uppers)?
    Or how will they affect the reliability ? What can happen form here on words.
    Thank mate. Everyday I learn something new in style forum. My shoes are topyed.
     
  2. Olifter

    Olifter Senior member

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  3. Nakedsnake

    Nakedsnake Senior member

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    Hey, thanks for the really thorough response, I appreciate it. I'll keep my eyes open for them to pop up as seconds or maybe a pair of used ones (preferably seconds). I wear a 12D in the 7 last.

    Thanks again
     
  4. cincikid

    cincikid Senior member

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  5. cincikid

    cincikid Senior member

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    I should have added that they are seconds, or at least so does say the sticker on the box. I haven't seen any noticeable flow though.
     
  6. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    When a Goodyear-welted shoe is made, the thick leather insole is tacked to the bottom of the last. The bottom of the insole has the canvas gemming rib attached to the bottom of this leather insole using cement. The leather upper of the shoe is wrapped around the last and is stitched to the canvas gemming. The welt is then stitched through the upper to the gemming. The sole is then stitched to the welt. Essentially the gemmed insole is the point at which every vital component of the shoe is attached. Before they sew on the outsole (the part that contacts the ground), they fill the void underneath the insole with cork. So, if you rip out the insole and can see the cork, then you have removed the foundation of the shoe that everything is bound to. Since your sole is rigid, the shoe will not immediately fall apart. The upper and welt is still sewn to the gemming, and the welt is still sewn to the outsole. However, the gemming is now just sitting there in the cork, and it isn't secured to anything. As you wear the shoe, it will begin to walk out of shape. It will become distorted, and it will begin to not fit properly.

    Gemming failure is widely considered the potential "weak-link" of Goodyear-welted shoes. Gemming failure is what makers of hand-welted shoes claim to be the fundamental problem with Goodyear-welted shoes (hand-welted shoes don't use gemming, they carve a "hold-fast" under the insole instead of gluing on canvas). The carved hold-fast can't come unglued, whereas gemming can. That's why hand-welted shoe are theoretically better. Gemming failure doesn't happen often enough for most people to decide that it isn't ok to use. However, you have essentially created complete gemming failure by ripping out your insoles.
     
  7. shartmann

    shartmann Senior member

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    I have always really liked the walnut Clifton, and can spot it in a Nordstroms from a section away. I ended up getting a pair of walnut Strands instead, but thought I would get a pair of Cliftons at some point. So when Mr. Grangaard made his offer for MTO shoes, walnut shell Clifton was my choice. I really like these and think the color is just about perfect, and if I could I would replace many of my shoes with walnut shell. The rest of my AE's should be feeling a bit nervous, as I plan to wear these a lot.

    [​IMG]

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    I think they turned out great, with a small exception. You can't see it in the above pictures, but if you look at the left shoe from a different angle you can see what looks like a stray buff mark on the vamp. I couldn't make this mark go away no matter what I tried, but again you can only see it from certain angles. I don't think I want to send these back as other than this they are just about perfect. Just thought I would ask if anyone has seen something similar before. Does anyone know if this is part of how the leather was prepared, or did this happen while making the shoe (which is what it looks like to me)?

    [​IMG]
     
  8. polojock615

    polojock615 Senior member

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    Last edited: Aug 4, 2013
  9. polojock615

    polojock615 Senior member

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    Try some reno. I like the Clifton a lot. I have them in brown calf and black shark.
     
  10. cincikid

    cincikid Senior member

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  11. Count de Monet

    Count de Monet Senior member

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    My guess is that all the JR soles used by AE are used for shell. They have scratched out "__________ SPORT by ALLEN EDMONDS" I guess the party wanted JR soles and AE decided to reach into their JR bin and didn't notice or care.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2013
  12. shartmann

    shartmann Senior member

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    I used Reno a few time, and even some RenoMat, but it didn't seem to change the visibility of this blemish at all. Maybe I'll try to be more aggressive with the RenoMat, I put that on lightly.

    I've seen pictures of your shark Cliftons, and they are awesome!
     
  13. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    MTO??
     
  14. shartmann

    shartmann Senior member

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    I learn a lot about shoes reading this thread. Thanks again MWS!
     
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