Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

[msulinski]



Well they are not quite that new; they have perhaps 3 wears on them. I love them though.

If the money is burning a whole in your pocket, maybe get something else, like shell macneils? You could also get a pair of calf C&Js.

 

[tietherope]

If there is one thing I have learned when dealing with AE, there customer service is great. I think you should just take them in to a store or send them the same pics and see what they say, whats the worse that can happen?

Not a single pair of my shoes creases exactly the same, so it's quite normal.

Our feet are different, and there will be some variances in the leather too.

But if you are not comfortable with it, yeah, just return it.

That seems completely normal to me. All my shoes crease much more than that, it's one of the things I enjoy about leather footwear--its "personality". Also, there's always variation between the creases between my left and right shoes, they never match exactly. If anything is abnormal at all, it's the fact that the one shoe doesn't show any creasing...
yet.

Thanks for the prime advice everyone. My concern was never that the shoes were creasing differently from each other, but more so that the one shoe was creasing incorrectly altogether. I wanted to see if the way it is creasing to look sort of like cracks was normal sometimes or possibly a defect in the leather. Your responses have cured my fears.

 

[Cold Iron]

I agree with this advice and as I love the merlot McAllister, wouldn't recommend getting it in black. If black is a must then get the Fifth Avenue and wait to get the McAllister in a different color.

On another note, if you haven't already, take a look at some forums discussing oxblood/burgundy/merlot shoes. Myself and a large percent of others prefer that color over black shoes in most settings.

Would you / could you make a pair burgundy cordovan Cambridges coexist in your closet along side a pair of (brand new!) merlot calfskin McAllisters?

The Cambridges are in stock now which is making the proposition tempting. I'm trying to resist..

I haven't had a lot of time lately so have not seen the thread on oxblood/burgundy/merlot shoes but can guess that I would fall into the camp that also prefers them to almost all other colors. Although there is nothing wrong with black IMO either, especially in cap, perf toe or plain toe. You could pick up the burgundy Cambridge and use the calf McAllister's for wet rainy days so yes I feel they can live in harmony together in your closet.

 

[Cold Iron]

Walnut Shell Dundee

Brown shell strand

They turned out great and look fantastic Michael, Congrats!!

 

[tietherope]

Brown Glasgow loafers
Chili Regent Street
Tan Suede Neumoks
Blue Neumoks
Brown/Brown Grain Hamptons
Black Cole Haan Captoe
Burgundy Patriots (likely being returned)

I think I need another captoe which is why I am leaning towards the strand; just worried bourbon may be too dark(like brown) and that is why I like the walnut.

Thoughts anyone?

I think you're right in saying that you need some walnut in your rotation. If your collection was smaller I may have advised against it as walnut is not as versatile as other colors and if it's 1 of 2 shoes you own it can hinder your wardrobe, but you'll be fine. Also, as you pointed out, you've got the wingtip category covered already. Strands sound like a great idea, especially at the current sale price of firsts.

 

[tietherope]

I haven't had a lot of time lately so have not seen the thread on oxblood/burgundy/merlot shoes but can guess that I would fall into the camp that also prefers them to almost all other colors. Although there is nothing wrong with black IMO either, especially in cap, perf toe or plain toe. You could pick up the burgundy Cambridge and use the calf McAllister's for wet rainy days so yes I feel they can live in harmony together in your closet.

There is no specific thread, I was just saying there is a lot of advice out there on burgundy shoes and endless debates on burgundy vs. black. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Cold Iron]

Walnut (cordovan) Wednesday

I didn't get the memo yesterday about walnut shell dang it!!

They look great and well done good sir!

 

[fiddlestyx]

Yes, for all the hassle, you might as well return them.

So I re-ordered a pair of Strands this morning prior to returning them in store and was wondering if I am able to mix and match the pairs? (ie replace the scuffed left one with the new pair and then pick the best between the two right shoes) Are these shoes uniquely numbered as a pair or just with the model and size number?

 

[wurger]

Yes, for all the hassle, you might as well return them.

So I re-ordered a pair of Strands this morning prior to returning them in store and was wondering if I am able to mix and match the pairs? (ie replace the scuffed left one with the new pair and then pick the best between the two right shoes) Are these shoes uniquely numbered as a pair or just with the model and size number?

no, shoes are not made together in pairs, should be fine.

 

[jasonmx3]

Thanks for the great advice everyone. Glad I posted that question here.

I'm now seriously considering getting the McAllister in Merlot. The more I look at it, the more I'm getting to appreciate it. I just need to get another belt to match.

The only reason I started considering the MacNeil was because it seemed like such a versatile shoe -- can be either dressed-up or down. Considering that I still have other office pairs in rotation (To Boot, J&M, etc.), I thought I could use a "dual purpose" AE pair.

As for the Strand, I really like my dark brown pair (fit, shape, design, etc.), which is why I thought of getting another one in a different color.

Thanks all!

 

[MoneyWellSpent]

Hm, AE is not a premium product, it sits in the entry level of various decent Goodyear welted shoes; but with its variety of styles and fittings, good quality control and customer service, made in USA and widely available, it's one of the best brands in its price range.

And since they are hand crafted with machines, what myself and some other members are saying is to have the right expectation that not everyone pair is going to be matching and perfect.

And with defects, fair enough, no one deserves them and they should be returned.

I get that not every pair will be the same, and a certain amount of that is just character, but I still stick by the fact that AE is a product you pay a premium for, and that you should expect a higher level of attention for that premium. Kenneth Cole, Steve Madden, Aldo, these are run of the mill shoes, the kind people pay $70-100 for. I would not expect anything from these shoes. Allen Edmonds run 3-4 times that amount, and for that premium, I do expect something.

To follow the car analogy, I wouldn't expect anything from a Nissan Versa, but I would from a Lexus ES350. Yes, an ES350 is barely luxury, and I wouldn't expect Rolls Royce levels of fit and finish, but I do expect it to be a step up from the Versa. Example: orange peel in the paint, mis-matched panel gaps, fine for the Versa, not so for the Lexus. Defects in the leather or finish, frayed stitching, fine for Aldos, not ok for AE.

Bottom line, if I'm paying $200-300 or more for a pair of shoes, I want something nice (relatively). AE recognizes this, and that's why they have such a generous return policy.

I'll have to side with Wurger on this. I don't think AE meets the criteria for being a "premium" shoe. Bgp001, I think you are missing a crucial piece to the puzzle on why AE shoes are the price they are. They are in a completely different echelon of shoes than Kenneth Cole, Steve Madden, and Aldo (to use your examples). Those shoes are glued together using inferior materials, intended to be disposed of when they wear out. You get what you pay for. AE shoes, being Goodyear-welted, and made of high quality leather (generally full grain), are at the basic price point for shoes in this level of quality. They are one of the most cost effective quality shoes available in the U.S., and are amongst the most cost effective shoes in many other countries. There are a couple of other brands that fit into similar price points made in Europe, but being that they are made in Europe, there are complications regarding fit, returns, recrafting, etc., that make them less cost effective for Americans. AE is a "no-frills" quality shoe manufacturer, where you are paying $200-335 for shoes that are made using a proven construction method that has stood the test of time, and uses durable high quality materials. The cost of a pair of AE's is the cost of these materials, plus the cost of paying their employees (they are apparently well paid for their industry) to make these shoes with their hands, plus the cost needed to keep the company growing and stable. You aren't paying for a name or a fashion brand that delivers the latest styles, using questionable materials, with nothing but a "cool" factor to stand on. You also aren't paying for extras that are considered subjectively valuable (with the exception of AE's Independence Collection). The premium that you are referring to is what makes other Goodyear-welted shoes so much more expensive than AE (think Alden, Crockett & Jones, Gaziano & Girling, John Lobb, Edward Green, etc., etc.) Those other companies spend much more time on the finishing of their shoes that are otherwise constructed the same way as Allen Edmonds. The other brand's shoes won't necessarily last longer. Some of the "premium" Goodyear-welted companies often use only the highest quality parts of the calfskin to make their shoes, so that is the one major exception that can theoretically make them last a bit longer, but even that isn't guaranteed.

AE's Independence Collection does have some frills built in, and you pay a $140 premium for them. I don't think the differences between the Independence Collection and AE's regular line is great enough with regards to cost of materials alone to justify the price increase (in other words I don't think they have $140 more materials and labor in them). I think you are paying a premium for those because they use a slightly nicer leather, and have more attention to details (wheeling, polished soles, brass nameplate, cushioned sock-liner). When you buy a shoe from the Independence Collection, you are enjoying your premium quality shoes that sets them just a little bit apart from the basic product. There is nothing wrong with this, if that's important to you, but these differences aren't going to make a pair of these shoes last longer than the regular line, which is what makes their differences subjectively valuable.

The differences between basic Goodyear-welted shoes and cemented cheap shoes are objective, are worth more money, and cost more to make. They will make a better shoe that will last longer and look better for the life of the shoe. Once you are in the realm of Goodyear-welted shoes (or better) you then have to separate the premium brands from the basic ones, and decide which bells and whistles you are willing to pay for.

 

[New Shoes1]

Sometimes I forget how perfect Park Avenues and Fifth Avenues would be with the cap toe line moved back a little bit. I took a picture (forgive the poor lighting) of one of my favorite round toe lasts from Carmina (Forest) next to AE's Strand. The Strand (which has essentially the same shape as the Park Avenue) is very similar to the Forest last, but is only slightly more round in the toe.

 

[wurger]

Hm, AE is not a premium product, it sits in the entry level of various decent Goodyear welted shoes; but with its variety of styles and fittings, good quality control and customer service, made in USA and widely available, it's one of the best brands in its price range. And since they are hand crafted with machines, what myself and some other members are saying is to have the right expectation that not everyone pair is going to be matching and perfect. And with defects, fair enough, no one deserves them and they should be returned.

I get that not every pair will be the same, and a certain amount of that is just character, but I still stick by the fact that AE is a product you pay a premium for, and that you should expect a higher level of attention for that premium. Kenneth Cole, Steve Madden, Aldo, these are run of the mill shoes, the kind people pay $70-100 for. I would not expect anything from these shoes. Allen Edmonds run 3-4 times that amount, and for that premium, I do expect something. To follow the car analogy, I wouldn't expect anything from a Nissan Versa, but I would from a Lexus ES350. Yes, an ES350 is barely luxury, and I wouldn't expect Rolls Royce levels of fit and finish, but I do expect it to be a step up from the Versa. Example: orange peel in the paint, mis-matched panel gaps, fine for the Versa, not so for the Lexus. Defects in the leather or finish, frayed stitching, fine for Aldos, not ok for AE. Bottom line, if I'm paying $200-300 or more for a pair of shoes, I want something nice (relatively). AE recognizes this, and that's why they have such a generous return policy.

I'll have to side with Wurger on this. I don't think AE meets the criteria for being a "premium" shoe.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Bgp001, I think you are missing a crucial piece to the puzzle on why AE shoes are the price they are. They are in a completely different echelon of shoes than Kenneth Cole, Steve Madden, and Aldo (to use your examples). Those shoes are glued together using inferior materials, intended to be disposed of when they wear out. You get what you pay for. AE shoes, being Goodyear-welted, and made of high quality leather (generally full grain), are at the basic price point for shoes in this level of quality. They are one of the most cost effective quality shoes available in the U.S., and are amongst the most cost effective shoes in many other countries. There are a couple of other brands that fit into similar price points made in Europe, but being that they are made in Europe, there are complications regarding fit, returns, recrafting, etc., that make them less cost effective for Americans. AE is a "no-frills" quality shoe manufacturer, where you are paying $200-335 for shoes that are made using a proven construction method that has stood the test of time, and uses durable high quality materials. The cost of a pair of AE's is the cost of these materials, plus the cost of paying their employees (they are apparently well paid for their industry) to make these shoes with their hands, plus the cost needed to keep the company growing and stable. You aren't paying for a name or a fashion brand that delivers the latest styles, using questionable materials, with nothing but a "cool" factor to stand on. You also aren't paying for extras that are considered subjectively valuable (with the exception of AE's Independence Collection). The premium that you are referring to is what makes other Goodyear-welted shoes so much more expensive than AE (think Alden, Crockett & Jones, Gaziano & Girling, John Lobb, Edward Green, etc., etc.) Those other companies spend much more time on the finishing of their shoes that are otherwise constructed the same way as Allen Edmonds. The other brand's shoes won't necessarily last longer. Some of the "premium" Goodyear-welted companies often use only the highest quality parts of the calfskin to make their shoes, so that is the one major exception that can theoretically make them last a bit longer, but even that isn't guaranteed. AE's Independence Collection does have some frills built in, and you pay a $140 premium for them. I don't think the differences between the Independence Collection and AE's regular line is great enough with regards to cost of materials alone to justify the price increase (in other words I don't think they have $140 more materials and labor in them). I think you are paying a premium for those because they use a slightly nicer leather, and have more attention to details (wheeling, polished soles, brass nameplate, cushioned sock-liner). When you buy a shoe from the Independence Collection, you are enjoying your premium quality shoes that sets them just a little bit apart from the basic product. There is nothing wrong with this, if that's important to you, but these differences aren't going to make a pair of these shoes last longer than the regular line, which is what makes their differences subjectively valuable. The differences between basic Goodyear-welted shoes and cemented cheap shoes are objective, are worth more money, and cost more to make. They will make a better shoe that will last longer and look better for the life of the shoe. Once you are in the realm of Goodyear-welted shoes (or better) you then have to separate the premium brands from the basic ones, and decide which bells and whistles you are willing to pay for.

+1, and I didn't even know that AE has a premium range; just checked them out, got to say, their side views are pretty average, especially how the toe box is shaped from the side, not a fan.

 

[MoneyWellSpent]

+1, and I didn't even know that AE has a premium range; just checked them out, got to say, their side views are pretty average, especially how the toe box is shaped from the side, not a fan.

I think the Jefferson is a very handsome shoe, personally. The Independence Collection uses the same lasts as their regular line, so they should have similar shapes, but they use a heavier sole leather gauge (which may be throwing off the balance to you, not sure).

 

[msulinski]

Quote:
My only complaint about the Independence collection is that the welt part of the sole is huge. It may look fine on the Jefferson, which I believe is a blucher, but I don't like it on the Harrison or whatever the cap-toe model is.