1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

Tags:
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,372
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2012
    There is a lot of truth to that. Unfortunately, it's sometimes the toughest question to answer, even by those who have been in the industry for many decades. There is such a shroud of secrecy around ingredients in shoe care products that it often comes down to anecdotal evidence and personal experience for what works best. It's frustrating to find the right answer. Also, a lot of it is about balance. One person may sparingly use a product that isn't as good as someone else who uses too much of a high quality product and end up with better results simply because they aren't over doing it. There are way to many variables to have one simple answer.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2013
  2. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

    Messages:
    2,372
    Joined:
    Oct 4, 2012
    You are correct.
     
  3. tifosi

    tifosi Senior member

    Messages:
    10,096
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2013
    Location:
    New Jersey
    
    How about smell? Does either VSC or Saphire mask that wonderful cordovan smell? Smell is only a slight concern, but I heard that VSC doesn't necessarily smell good while Saphire smells similar to honey. Can anyone comment on this?
     
  4. wdahab

    wdahab Senior member

    Messages:
    1,121
    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2012
    Location:
    Long Island, NY
    I believe I read somewhere that the reason Nick Horween recommends using VSC is that it's formula is basically the same as what Horween Shell is treated with before it gets into Alden/AE's hands, and its what several shell makers apply as well (Rancourt finishes their shells with VSC).

    On the topic of Mac Method and shell, don't take Mac as gospel. Shell is very resilient, and while some things aren't great to use on shell over and over, it will also not get ruined if you use petroleum oils or the wrong polish, or the wrong whatever. Those who follow Crane's method (basically the exact opposite of the Mac Method in terms of pampering shellS) knows that he very often uses a light mix of dish soap and water on his shells to get the grit and grime off before soaking them in boot oil and then sno-sealing them. And his boots look amazing. I have a pair of AE x Wolverine 744s that I've treated this way, and they look great (though not as great as his 721s, because he's crazy committed to brushing them to a high shine).
     
  5. tifosi

    tifosi Senior member

    Messages:
    10,096
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2013
    Location:
    New Jersey
    So many things to consider. I do not have any leather conditioner at the moment and have not used anything on any of my shell or CXL yet.
    My perfect world solution would be something suitable on shell and CXL that I could physically go somewhere and buy. The only place really local to me would be a Redwing store. I wonder what they would carry?
     
  6. shartmann

    shartmann Senior member

    Messages:
    124
    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    Location:
    Colorado

    Thanks for all the positive comments. Cold Iron, I was originally planning to go with the McAllister too, but had just purchased a burgundy McAllister and walnut Jefferson so thought I was getting heavy on wingtips. These were surprisingly comfortable for a first wearing. The leather seems to be extra soft and almost broken in already. Not nearly as stiff out of the box as some other shell pairs (my Leeds are over a year old and the shell still feel much stiffer, although the thicker sole may be contributing to this perception).


    I went with the same colors as the McAllister web gem from last year. I couldn't quite remember the details so asked Allison this morning. Her response:

    We used light brown transparent edge dressing with a chili welt and we also added wheeling and fudging to the welt to give it that “rolled” look.
     
  7. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

    Messages:
    422
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2012
    Thanks for all the info, MWS! Now I know there is a rhyme and reason for my brushing shoes before and after I wear them.

    As for conditioners: I don't recommend using Lexol on shell. I used a little bit on a pair of vintage Bostonians and it pulled the finish right out of the shoe. I'm still working on bringing back the shine and small tint of colour that was lost in comparison to the rest of the shoe. It really, really dulls the leather. This is the complete opposite of what I experience with calf/buffalo skin.
     
  8. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

    Messages:
    422
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2012
    I gotta be honest, it doesn't look so bad on the 3-last. But I'm not digging that the eyelets are limited to three. 4-5 eyelets would have been a better call, imo.
    Also, it would seem that the shoes are too narrow for your foot. The laces shouldn't come apart that widely.
     
  9. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

    Messages:
    5,718
    Joined:
    May 7, 2013
    Location:
    Brooklyn, NY
    Brown neumoras in the studio today.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. ryansto

    ryansto Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    96
    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2013
    I agree that a 4 eyelet would work better, and as long as the shoe creases properly, I'll be fine. I have the Neumora, and get some double creasing due to the elongated 333 last.

    The spread is just under an inch at the top of the "V", which I've found to be acceptable. If the shoe were too narrow, the topline of the shoe would gap around the throat from the pressure pushing the throat outwards. Basically, the spread isn't the only indicator. Also, as I'm sure you know, the upper is going to stretch quite a bit, allowing the eyestays to move closer together. When I first bought my Jeffersons, the spread was about 3/4". It has now stretched to the point that the spread only measures about 1/4".

    UPDATE: Interestingly enough, where most balmorals are lasted with the eyestay touching (if you've ever seen a pair being made, they use a plastic tie to keep the eyestays together while lasting), it seems that the Hanover is lasted with a natural "V".
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2013
  11. spitshine123

    spitshine123 Senior member

    Messages:
    382
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2011
    I agree. Its a little weird AE lasting quirk. I believe the old fairfax were lasted the same way. Doesnt look bad though
     
  12. AdamAdam

    AdamAdam Senior member

    Messages:
    337
    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2013
    Location:
    Massachusetts, USA
    RL Saunders are on which last, please? Thanks.
     
  13. cincikid

    cincikid Senior member

    Messages:
    815
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2012
    I believe it's 2 last.
     
  14. BCer

    BCer Senior member

    Messages:
    264
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Location:
    Left Coast of Canada
    I emailed jville a while ago to ask what last the Saunders were on, and got the following reply: "it is close to our Regent Street, kind of snug in the heel but room in the toe box." Regent appears to be discontinued, but a little searching shows it was on the 4-234 last. Hope that helps. FWIW, I have a pair of Saunders in tan, and love them!!
     
  15. reidrothchild

    reidrothchild Senior member

    Messages:
    760
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2010
    So do you find that the Saunders fit true to size? I was under the impression that all the RL shoes were narrow in the toe box like AE's 2 last.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2013
  16. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

    Messages:
    422
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2012
    Interesting on the lasting! But as long as the shoes are comfortable, that's all that matters.

    I'm going to go ahead and disagree with AE in their description. I don't own any shoes on the 4-last, but I advise buying Saunders in a wider width if you normally are a medium width. I don't find the heel any narrower, but the toe box is tight and elongated.
     
  17. Deviantfish

    Deviantfish Member

    Messages:
    20
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2013
    Location:
    Texas
    Would anyone happen to have any advice on how the 4 last fits compared to the 5 last? I am looking at a reasonably inexpensive pair of AE Ritz for my black tie rig, but was concerned about the sizing (I'm usually a 9D, but the lack of laces makes me wonder if I should size down, depending on how the last fits)

    Apologies if this has been asked recently, but I couldn't find it through the search feature.
     
  18. tifosi

    tifosi Senior member

    Messages:
    10,096
    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2013
    Location:
    New Jersey
    
    For me, the 4 last fit TTS and I go .5 down on the 5 last. The 4 last in an 8D (which is what I wear on the 5 last) was too short. My toes were cramped. I measure slightly under 8.5 on the Brannock for reference.
     
  19. masernaut

    masernaut Senior member

    Messages:
    422
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2012
    My rule of thumb for shoes without laces is to size down half a size. But I would still recommend trying on the shoe as everyone's foot is different.
     
  20. jungleroller

    jungleroller Senior member

    Messages:
    2,280
    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2013
    Location:
    Chicago
    Speaking of 3 eyelets. I've been eyeing the Kenilworth Derbs. I've read about their bowing problems which is kinda keeping me from pulling the trigger but I do like their simplicity. Any of you guys have experience with these?

    Brown Burnished...

    [​IMG]
    Or maybe in bourbon...

    [​IMG]
     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by