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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

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  1. CEE88

    CEE88 Senior member

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    Solid logic there, RogerP. I feel like I've learned to appreciate shell over time, having a few pairs, seeing many more on SF. If it was less durable than calf (assume shell was highly prized yet very delicate) then I definitely wouldn't even consider shell. So it's durability is definitely "a" (but not the only) factor in choosing shell over calf. At the same time, it seems that sometimes people understate the durability of calf when promoting shell as a "lifetime" shoe. There are a lot of examples of calf shoes lasting 20-30-40 years, and there are many NOS//deadstock calf shoes from the 1920s/30s/40s/50s available for purchase that are still supple and "as good as new." Shell is more durable than calf, but it's not like all calf dries up and shrivels away after 5 or 10 years. Some people just don't like how calf creases - all the little hairline cracks - but that's a different issue (same as if you don't like how shell looks).
     
  2. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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    Wore the tan Strandmoks today......

    [​IMG]
     
  3. ScottyBoy920

    ScottyBoy920 Senior member

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    Thats great, glad you could reach her.

    You mind me asking, how much was the belt? The standard cost of the other wide basic belts?
     
  4. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    Cold Iron already touched on the thickness question. It's thickness and inconsistency that make most wearers fan of it, is also what makes some shoemakers dislike working with it.

    I want to touch on what I bolded in your comment above though. Make sure you fully understand what shell is. It is called "leather" and it is considered leather by the tanneries that make it. It is classified as leather. However, it isn't skin. It is a muscle sheath. Specifically, the muscle sheath that lies directly under the skin of the hind quarters of the horse. As such, it has completely different properties than traditional leather. What you touched on regarding the depth of color is actually applicable to all leather. Cheap leather is only tanned on the surface. Good leather is tanned all the way through. Here's a decent summary: http://www.saddlebackleather.com/Leather-101

    The tanning methods of shell are uniquely done because they are required to turn the raw material into what we call shell cordovan. It is not just a different method of tanning skins. In other words, you can't take a piece of cowhide and impart the same properties into it by tanning it with the same methods as shell cordovan and end up with the same product.

    As for whether 6 pairs of calf will outlast 3 pairs of shell, it's obviously impossible to say due to the number of variables (which are nearly limitless). I would never presume to say one way or the other. I think it's possible that 3 pairs of shell shoes could have uppers that are in better shape than 6 pairs of calf shoes after a certain period of time. This is because each pair in a 6 pair rotation of calfskin shoes will still be worn frequently. At some point, you will reach the level of having so many shoes that they are simply never worn enough to show it.

    However, don't miss what I said previously about the limited number of resolings that any Goodyear-welted shoe can take, no matter what it's made from. Just because the leather can last a certain period of time, doesn't mean that the shoe can! At some point, you will reach a level of diminishing returns due to the cost of shell. When you can afford so many more pairs of calf due to it's lower cost, you will inevitably end up with a longer lasting collection of shoes at some point, if you keep adding pairs. Then question is when. Nobody can answer that with anything definitive.

    I think you are the only one who can answer whether a shoe is pleasant to the eye as far as that definition of "lasting" is concerned. It's too subjective for anyone to really answer that for you. Many here love "new" looking shoes, and others enjoy "old" looking ones.
     
  5. CEE88

    CEE88 Senior member

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    Thanks, tifosi. If you need me, I'll be over in the Alden thread licking my wounds.
     
  6. green garden

    green garden Senior member

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    Hi,

    Does anyone out there have the Townley, Lexington and Leeds? I would really appreciate a side by side shot of the Leeds with the either Townley or Lexington, or both if available. I am interested in comparing the length of the vamp, and subsequently the size of the opening for the foot. I am trying to find a brogued blucher pattern in the 1-511 for an MTO and have narrowed it down to the Townley and Lexington. But I want to make sure that the vamp proportion are indeed similar to the Leeds. A side by side top shot would be awesome if available.

    Thanks!
     
  7. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Well said and pointed out, guys.
     
  8. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Well said, People really should decide their price point first before deciding which shoes to buy, it's a law of diminishing returns on all high end items, if you only looking at value vs quality, then you never need to buy luxury items.
     
  9. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Money, thanks for the information on shell, with all theses qualities, it's not that common in European shoes, I am sure there are plenty of horses in Europe.
     
  10. Yorker

    Yorker Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Hey guys, I just picked up some killer AE's at a thrift store, thought you guys would appreciate a look.

    I guess they were a limited edition for the 1992 Olympics. Size 10.5 D. Sadly, they dont fit. so they're available.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2013
  11. peppercorn78

    peppercorn78 Senior member

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    I've really enjoyed seeing y'all get creative with your MTO orders. In fact, it's got me thinking about taking the plunge myself.

    Was thinking about maybe a derby like flatiron in burgundy calf.

    Or...a navy suede saddle shoe? Maybe not the Shelton, as it might look too short and stubby in suede, but I wonder if they would do something like that on a sleeker last, like the 5 or 8...
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2013
  12. kwhitelaw

    kwhitelaw Senior member

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    do most take the Bayfield TTS? I've never been fitted for it and am thinking of a MTO..

    tia
     
  13. Cold Iron

    Cold Iron Senior member

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    Got a call from AE that my cappuccino shell Bayfields are done and shipping. It has been hot here the last week, 90-95 with high humidity and heat indexes running about 110 daily. I asked her if it was that bad over in Wi. and she said all of that and worse. The factory shop floor is not air conditioned and they are giving the workers extra breaks and trying to keep them hydrated. Having worked the shop floor in the SE under those conditions I know what it is like. And adds even more to my appreciation for those that do the work which goes into making my shoes and boots.
    I have the Townley and 3 pair of Leeds, those Lex are a good looking shoe! Now I feel like I am missing out on something by not having those Lexington's. The opening and vamp length is similar on both however the Leeds vamp sits just a bit higher (taller) and it looks like the opening on the Townley is actually larger because of that. Not by much but still it is a little bit larger. Just got home and grabbed the shoes to look at before I head out again. If you need better detail I can try to take a picture tomorrow but hope this helps.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. BootSpell

    BootSpell Senior member

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    The wood was about $100, and it's some pretty nice aromatic cedar. I paid the woodworker $220, so that comes to about $320. Remember this is El Paso, where labor is pretty cheap.
     
  15. BootSpell

    BootSpell Senior member

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    Thanks, Cold Iron. It was a fun project and I enjoy the process of picking the boots to wear in the morning much more now.
     
  16. Cold Iron

    Cold Iron Senior member

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    The Bayfield has a poron insole. I am normally a 10D in the 1 and 5 last with the exception being a 9.5D in the rough collection. I had the CXL Bayfield in 10D for 2 years and the black calf in 10D for a year. They fit OK with thinner socks but at the end of the day if I walked long distances I looked forward to taking them off. When I had my MTO Bayfields done I told Deborah that and she said they didn't fit and purchased them back from me for what I paid for them. She told me she didn't want me to have any AE shoes or boots that didn't fit perfectly. We talked about my foot and how it fit different lasts and she felt because of the poron insole a 10.5D would fit me perfectly, she said the way my foot is shaped it would move the widest part of the boot forward enough to where the ball of my foot is. I had my doubts but she sent me 10.5D and 10E. Sure enough just like she said the 10.5 D black calf fit me perfectly. When talking to her about options she said I could have them made without the poron insoles so I went TTS in 10D. But someone else on here was told that he could not have them made without poron insoles and I think he went up a half size. Bucksfan on the other hand went up a width in his CXL so he could wear them with a bit heavier socks. In my case that caused heel slip.
     
  17. OlafG

    OlafG Senior member

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    Thanks for the info. I called one of the outlets and they had a pair of Bayfields in brown in what is my 5 and 1 last size. Going up a width is not an option since I'm already at 3E.

    Can anyone comment on the fit of 333 last compared to 1 and 5? I remember trying the Neumora in my normal size and it was a bad fit, but I think it might be because monk straps aren't really accommodating for high instep feet. I'm liking the look of those Portlands and might get a pair later this year.
     
  18. dieselman89

    dieselman89 Senior member

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    I'm looking to buy my eighth pair of AE shoes. I'd like to buy the Daltons and would like advice on size and color.


    • Is the fit true to its size?
    • I plan on wearing these shoes with jeans (specifically raw demin). Which color do you suggest: walnut, bourbon, or dark chocolate?
     
  19. esk8mw

    esk8mw Active Member

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    Aug 18, 2013
    Can anyone comment on how phone orders are processed at the outlets? I placed a phone order this morning and they took down my CC info, email etc. but I haven't gotten a confirmation email and my CC hasn't been charged yet. Does it normally take a little time to process the orders or should I call and follow up? I'm not used to this old school ordering system...

    Purchases were Neumok in snuff suede and Dalton in bourbon in case anyone was wondering!
     
  20. BootSpell

    BootSpell Senior member

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    They fit TTS for me. I (gasp) own 4 pairs of Daltons in addition to the Long Branches and they all fit well TTS. I think the walnut and bourbon add a nice contrast to dark raw denim. To me, the dark chocolate or even the burgundy shell Daltons are dressier. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them.
     
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