Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.
Could be the Alden shell 994, albeit a very faded, and old, version.
Chili is more brown than burgundy.
Great, thank you very much for that information. That is very helpful to know.
I would call Allen Edmonds and ask to check on these styles in "seconds". Many times they have them - especially in a 14 size. And a second is something that is rarely different to the eye.
A New Weybridge in a smaller size is available from Allen Edmonds at Amazon.
The following are appearing on eBay:
And the following show up in "Completed Listings" - which you can use in the Advance Search. (Sometimes Completed Listings means the Seller had no buyers, and you could contact the seller later)
By going to Google and typing in: Allen Edmonds Hastings
You can keep track of any new listings in the search results.
Questions for everyone who owns AE Calfskin AND Shell Cordovan in the SAME STYLE:
1) I spoke to AE customer service and also their recrafting department and asked about the difference. The first tip they offered me was that the SHELL CORDOVAN is built heavier, stiffer with a thicker hide (for durability) than the CALFSKIN shoes - and therefore the CALFSKIN shoes may feel more comfortable when directly comparing the same style in the SHELL CORDOVAN. By nature, they said, the CALFSKIN is a softer leather and leans toward more of a comfortable fit.
2) On the downside of the CALFSKIN, they mentioned it requires more care in prevention than the SHELL CORDOVAN - very much like an extremely fine 100% wool suit fine to the touch - compared to a mixed wool suit that may be more durable. - and the CALFSKIN scuffs more than the SHELL CORDOVAN. (With my new Saphir Products, I am less concerned about scuffing)
Therefore, I would like to hear from others who own BOTH the CALFSKIN and the SHELL CORDOVAN in the SAME AE STYLE - such as owning the Dalton in both Calfskin and Shell.
a) I'd like to know what your personal experience has been in FIT, COMFORT, and FEEL. (I suspect you already know that the Shell Cordovan has been more durable - so that is not the point of my inquiry as much)
b) For those who own both in the same style, have you been able to bring the Calfskin version to a similar elegance in shine that the Shell Cordovan's reputation has? If not, how close have you been able to get the Calfskin to match the Shell Cordovan in shine?
c) When comparing both of the shoes for creasing patterns, does the CALFSKIN have less creasing patterns than the SHELL CORDOVAN? (Again, with the Saphir Products, many of the Calfskin creases can be greatly minimized in appearance)
d) Has anyone purchased the SAME COLOR in the SAME STYLE in both CALFSKIN and SHELL CORDOVAN - so that one pair can be used in WINTER and the other in SUMMER? (I read that the SHELL CORDOVAN wears warmer than the CALFSKIN, and depending where someone lives, it may be best to wear them at different temperatures of the year for comfort)
All my best,
Regardless that this style might be known to look like this - I would return them and choose something that "does not need explaining" when it the toe is noticed.
Maiden voyage - brown Cliftons
Don't worry about emphasizing selective words in all caps. We welcome you in any regard.
Nice job. I have the same color in a similar style.
The next step up in the shine may be to go with Saphir Products at the Hangerproject. (See my earlier posts)
I'll respond to each question / comment, if that's ok:
1) Yes, out of the box, calfskin is typically softer and definitely stretches more. The combination can make for a more comfortable shoe, at least for the first few wears. Calfskin is definitely also lighter weight. However, shell cordovan softens up over time, and can actually be even softer than a similar shoe in calfskin. For example, my J. Crew shell cordovan cap-toe boots are even softer than my Cromexcel AE Bayfields now - Each is about 1.5 yrs old.
2) The scuffing comment is interesting - because my shell shoes scuff just as much as my calfskin shoes, just differently. In my experience, a clean and well-shined shell cordovan shoe will scuff very similarly to a polished and well-shined calfskin shoe. It is in the abuse where shell cordovan really wins. If you kick the bottom of a door, or rub the edge of your shoe on a concrete stair, etc... that would spell the end of a calfskin shoe. Not so with shell cordovan.
a) On a few occasions, I have "traded up" from calfskin to shell cordovan. This happened with the Grayson, Dalton, Macneil and Park Ave. In each case, the shell cordovan version was initially tougher to break in, but after a few wears is easily as comfortable as the calfskin version. I currently own both shell and calfskin in the tassel loafer (Grayson), longwing (Macneil) and Cap-toe (Park Ave). In each case, I started with the calfskin version much earlier and when I got an alternative color, I opted for the shell version. (I.E. calfskin version in black calf, burgundy / brown version in shell cordovan).
b) A well-shined calfskin shoe will be more elegant than a well-shined shell cordovan shoe. This is due to the thickness of the leather as well as differences in the characteristics of the shine. Shell cordovan easily attains and retains a dull shine, but does not easily attain a high shine (think mirror shine or even the type of shine corrected grain leather has). With time and patience, a calfskin shoe will shine better.
c) The creasing patterns are similar, but the creasing itself is different. Calfskin has "microcreases" shell gets "rolls." See below: (burgundy shell Grayson, black calf Grayson, #8 Alden shell tassel loafer). Note particularly the creasing on my left shoe on the two Graysons, exactly the same creasing pattern, but to my eye the actual creasing is much less apparent on the shell version.
(note this pic of the Aldens was after 3 straight days of wearing, walking through airports...)
d) no - I have taken the attitude that when I want/need a new pair of shoes, I will get the shell cordovan version, unless none is available. I always prefer wearing my shell shoes. I do rotate my shoes by season, preferring boots in the winters and loafers in the summers. However, I have found that some of my shell shoes do get "welts" when exposed to water - so for that reason if it is rainy / snowy / slushy out I either wear my chromexcel Bayfields, calfskin Grayson or Macneil, and/or I use Tingley overshoes. This is simply out of my own striving to help my shoes last longer, particularly the leathers soles.
Definitely shell, either the aforementioned Alden 994 or potentially the AE "Polo." In either case, those are faded #8 or burgundy shell cordovan.
I'm going to have to disagree with some of you on the durability of shell, especially when it comes to scrapes. I have a pair of Alden shell LHS that I scratched on a barstool. No matter what I do to them, I cannot get the scrapes out. I tried a deer polishing bone, brushing, buffing, etc, but nothing works. I took them to B. Nelson shoes, and Nick told me there really isn't anything that can be done.
I also spilled a little kitchen grease on them, but didn't notice until several hours later. The grease left behind dark spots on the shoe. I tried buffing, brushing, etc. on those spots too. Nick also gave it a shot, but nothing worked.
If I had done either of the above on a pair of calf shoes, chances are, I could have gotten the stains out and/or polished over the stains and scrapes to the point where they would be unnoticeable.
One could also try wax. To some it's heresy in the ministry of shell, but it'll fill in any scrapes or scuffs to the normal eye.
And they are looking good!
for a heavy scrape, any type of leather can show a permanent mar. but for light scrapes, shell can be restored, where leather could oftentimes not be, not to mention the creasing you don't get with shell.
see this video at 8:00 -
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