I'm not an expert at this, either, but I know that the key difference is that the Blake method does not have a welt. Instead, they stitch the shoe from the inside all the way through the sole. Here's a good picture of it: http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2008/07/make-berluti-your-fifth-pair-part-1.html I think the easiest way to tell is if the shoe has a welt. Also, with a Blake shoe, I think you would see stitches around the edges of the insole, looking down into the shoe. My understanding is that Black stitched shoes can be resoled, but that the equipment to do it is not that common in the US. Maybe that's why AE has specially trained Italian cobblers, as mentioned by JubeiSpiegel.