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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

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  1. cdmcallister

    cdmcallister Well-Known Member

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    Ahhh, I'm Scottish and love the broguing (surname = McAllister)...

    I wear my ghillie brogues quite often with my kilt but I do understand that not everyone likes that much adornment on their shoes.

    If you can get to an AE brick and mortar, you can check out the bourbon in person. If you go back through this thread there are several pics of bourbon shoes.

    It has been noted that some bourbons come a little darker, some a little lighter, but I just got these last week:



    [​IMG]

    Hope that helps. I hadn't conditioned or polished these yet at the time of the picture.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013


  2. kentyman

    kentyman Senior Member

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    I can confirm that Kenilworths don't fit the same as Strands. I'm an 8.5D Strand, but 8.5D Kenilworths were a little too long and wide. I expect 8E probably would fit me better, but I haven't tried yet.

    Presumably it's do to the fact that we're comparing a blucher to balmorals.
     


  3. kentyman

    kentyman Senior Member

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    No offence, but I don't quite agreed with this. In particular, I think a cap toe balmoral like the Park Avenue or even Fifth Avenue is significantly more appropriate than a blucher like the Kenilworth.

    Agreed.
     


  4. kentyman

    kentyman Senior Member

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    I can't compare it with Chili, but you can check out more pictures of Bourbon from when I got my Strands.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013


  5. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior Member

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    None taken!
    -I'll stand my ground on the cap toes not being appropriate for tux/dinner jacket wear.
    -I will concede that the blucher is not the best choice with those open laces. I didn't even catch that.
    But the Mayfair is their formal shoe and....I dunno. Like I said to the OP you could wear the PA and no one in the room would know the difference. For me I'd prefer highly polished, elegant cut, plain toe leathers. Maybe not the Kenilworth though since you pointed out the lace bed.
    Thanks Kentyman.
     


  6. masernaut

    masernaut Senior Member

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    I'm compiling a list of all the wholecuts AE has released in the past. So far I've got:

    Astor
    Fairfax
    Greenwich
    Hastings
    Manhattan
    Westgate

    I bet I'm missing a lot more names.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2013


  7. TheSizzle

    TheSizzle Senior Member

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    I really wish I'd scooped a pair of Greenwich back in the day. I just happened to be too young to notice it at the time. At least I got the Hastings.

    I believe the Austin was darn close to a wholecut as well (it's pretty much a wholecut with a thin piece of foxing at the rear).
     


  8. Variatio

    Variatio Well-Known Member

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    Mee too, I am thinking about which Cambridge to get. The black is IMO a must-have-standard, OTOH I do love the Burgundy color. BTW indeed I need a different width with the Cambridge and the McTavish: The McTavish fits well in 11.5D (as e.g. the Strand does) while the Cambridge needs to be 11.5E. Anyone has an idea?

    Regarding the size, maybe someone has an additional hint: I am about to purchase some more Cordovans, i.e. Randolph and Patriot. As they have pretty much their own lasts could anyone pls give a recommendation how they fit compared to the Cambridge?
     


  9. elbastardocalvo

    elbastardocalvo Senior Member

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  10. wdahab

    wdahab Distinguished Member

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    I don't have experience with those exact models, but my AE handsewn experience is that they run a half-size shorter than the balmoral/blucher shoes. A 9EEE in every handsewn I've tried has been too short/narrow to even get on my foot, but 9.5EEE's have fit perfect. I wear 9EEEs in Mcallisters and Finch.
     


  11. Cold Iron

    Cold Iron Distinguished Member

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    Congrats! I tend to agree with the Mac method and use very little product of any kind if possible. I do apply several thin coats of wax on some shoes that I decided to wear in weather that is wet such as snow or rain however. This is from his blog however not quite accurate. He has posted many times that he brushes each shoe for ~15 minutes and that the brush always stays in contact with the shoe while brushing. As he says it is all in the wrist.


    Thanks to the inherent beauty and durability of shell cordovan leather, proper care is not difficult. Adhering to the steps outlined below will ensure top-notch maintenance of your shoes, allowing them many, many years for your enjoyment:

    1. After each wear, wipe down the shoes with a damp cloth.
    2. Using a horsehair brush, brush each shoe vigorously for 2-3 minutes.
    3. Using a cotton cloth, buff the shoes to a high shine.
    4. Use paste wax sparingly, only when the shoes are in great need. We recommend paste wax only, after every 20 wears. When you must use paste wax, use a very small amount (dime size).
    5. Do not use creme wax.
    6. If the shoes get wet, do not attempt to dry with a hair dryer or other heating source. Instead, stuff with shoes with newspaper, turn them on their sides, and allow them to sit overnight. The next day, remove the papers and perform steps 1-3 above.
    7. If water welts appear from exposure to water, brush vigorously with a horsehair brush. Welts will usually disappear over time.
    8. To guard against water damage, apply Alden Leather Defender.
    9. Other beneficial products for your shell cordovan are Venetian Shoe Creme and Saphir Renovateur. Both should be used sparingly.
    10. Any scratches to the shell cordovan leather should be vigorously brushed with a horsehair brush. Use a bit of paste wax if the scratch is very deep.
    11. Maintain the shoes with a proper heel and sole dressing.
    12. Do not wear the same pair of shoes two days in a row. Allow the shoes a day of rest, with cedar shoe trees inserted to absorb moisture.

    Break-in Procedures

    It is important that you break in brand new Alden shoes in the proper way. In order to ascertain if you have purchased the proper size, and if the last is suitable for your foot, we recommend the following break-in procedures:

    1. Before wearing the new shoes outside, wear them on a carpeted surface.
    2. Allow three wearings, for a few hours at a time.
    3. After the third wearing, you should be able to tell if you have purchased a last suitable for your foot, in the correct size.
    4. Carpeted wearing will also allow the shoe to break-in and flex a bit easier so that on your first wearings
    outside, the front section of the leather sole does not take on too much stress and wear.

    Bowing if it is bad enough can not be repaired. Minor bowing can be tightened some during recrafting but only to a certain extend. You need to send them to AE to let them determine if it is outside specifications. At least that has been my experience. I have had shoes on the 1 and 8 last both bow and returned them in each case. It is the first thing I check for in a new pair of shoes when I get them.
    Shell often, but not always, fits just slightly larger than calf. Not enough that I have ever changed sizes though. I am a 10D in 1 and 5 last for both calf and shell including the Cambridge. McTavish, Elgin and Black Hills are all 3 rough collection and I wear a 9.5D in those. Many people have sized down a half size for rough collection shoes and it usually works. But feet can vary a lot so it is hard to say always and going down a width can also work for some people. Depends on the foot.

    Have only had my shell Patriot's (TTS) since Saturday so not an expert on them by any stretch of the imagination. They have a number of bad reviews on the AE website due to being uncomfortable and tight. I noticed that a few people who dinged them said they have a high instep. A high instep means a high volume foot, I have a very low volume foot on the other hand, and my left foot is just slightly larger than my right foot. Using black superfeet inserts in the Patriot's which increases volume my left foot after a couple of hours does get sore from the strap and too much tension. Removing the inserts they are fine. So I could see how a high volume foot may have a problem with the Patriot in your normal size.
     


  12. bucksfan

    bucksfan Senior Member

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    Edit^^ nice detail, Cold Iron. We were posting at the same time.


    I take the same size in my shell Randolphs as all my other shell AEs - 12D. I don't have any experience with the Patriot, however. It feels to me like AE made their 9 last (Randoph) shorter than the 5 last (Cambridge, PA, others) in the same size, probably so that the loafers on this last could fit well in the same size as their lace-ups on other lasts.

    I'll also add that the full-strap design of the Randolph means it won't stretch much across the top of your foot. If you have a high-volume foot (as described above) you may have problems with the Randolph. I have a medium volume foot, and the first few wearings were tight, then it started to loosen up.

    Ideally, go somewhere you can try them on... Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2013


  13. New Shoes1

    New Shoes1 Distinguished Member

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    You must be very tall. All your pictures of shoes look like you are taking them from ten feet away.
     


  14. Close Hoarse

    Close Hoarse Senior Member

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    AE discontinued the bourbon polish in a tube. I use it on my bourbon and bone spectators. If you'd like a tube, PM me.

    CH
     


  15. elbastardocalvo

    elbastardocalvo Senior Member

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    6'4". Makes my size 14eee's look small.
     


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