Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.
These are terrific! Congrats.
Thanks as always for the thoughtful response. It's still between the Tan Finch and Walnut/Brown Shelton, but I think I'm going to wait a while. I have Cognac McTavishes on the way, and I've only worn my Elgins thrice, so I really should enjoy these first. But there's a good chance I end up with one of the above sometime this year. Thanks for all of the discussion.
Incidentally, I'm second-guessing my Elgin fit. I wouldn't return them at this point, but it makes me wonder how the McTavishes will fit. In particular, I started with an 8D McTavish (half a size down from my usual 8.5D), and they were way too tight in the toes. It was hard for me to tell if this was from them being too narrow and/or too short. So when I got the Elgins, I decided to go with the usual 8.5D, and the felt good enough that I kept them. But now, I notice them feeling a little too tight on my toes, and if I loosen them enough that it doesn't hurt, I get a bit of heel slippage. Perhaps instead of 8.5D I should've gone with a wider 8? For the Elgin, I figure I can just put a heel grip in and wear them looser, but I'm not sure I want to do the same with the McTavish if I could exchange them for a better fit. Should I be considering an 8E(E(E)) instead? I'm also worried that since they're seconds, such a shoe will likely not be available.
The McTavish seems to be a tough shoe to fit. As you know, it's off the 5-last, but it doesn't fit the same. It might be worth trying an 8E to see which fits better. It should fit pretty darn close to the Elgin though.
I think certain people feel they can force a fit in their standard 5-last size rather than accepting the different size. By the shoe for the fit, not the size.
Still, I'm surprised the Elgin is actually tight as an 8.5D.
As far as the heel slip and toe crushing, have you tried a different lacing style? Have you tried a tongue pad to push your foot further back? Once you break in the sole, they should flex better and possibly reduce the heel slip, but that's hit or miss. For me, the double oak soles started to really work out well once they softened up, and the heel slip disappeared, as far as I can tell.
Eh, not the first timeI've seen AE updating their site. I haven't seen any dramatic changes in the past.
The way the 8D fit, I wonder whether E would be wide enough. Unfortunately, since I'm dealing with factory seconds, it's not easy to keep exchanging for different sizes that they probably don't have in stock.
I haven't tried any of those. Other than using heel pads in the past, I don't have a lot of experience in "modding" the fit of a shoe. Is a tongue pad just the same idea but under the tongue? What lacing styles help? I'm using criss cross lacing right now.
I'm actually surprised to hear that heel slippage got better with breaking in, as I figured the sinking insole would leave more room in the shoe to slip around.
The tongue pad has a different effect than a heel grip. Theoretically, it should push your foot toward the rear of the shoe to press your heel more securely against the heel/counter. It also helps accomodate a smaller volume foot.
I thought that might happen too, but my heel was very close to gripping when I first got them. I have a really narrow heel, though, and once I worked in the sole, it had less motivation to pull away.
If you are already sticking with the shoes (meaning you wore them outside), I would at least consider the tongue pad. They're pretty darn cheap and not permanent. You may really like it, and if you don't, you're not out much (the local AE store here will give you a set if you want them, but they're just a buck or two for a set anyways).
Going back to the lacing, the criss-cross should work, but I feel that places a lot of pressure in the two sections where it crosses below. I used the double helix style for a bit because it gave a similar snugness while spreading the pressure on the top of the foot.
I generally advise against "modding" a shoe. With some research and fitting you should be able to find an appropriate fit. I have had some trouble getting a propper fit with AE. I let an SA talk me into Super Feet (didn't work). I tried Pedag inserts, heel grips, tongue pads. In some cases the mods "worked", but I was never really happy with the result over time (i.e. I got rid of those shoes).
Well, yeah, it's definitely better to get a shoe that fits right, but if the shoe has been worn, or you're between sizes and really want to make it work, little pads and such can sometimes help. I'd rather ship a shoe back and try a different size than try to make the wrong size fit, even if I really had to wait or got a shocking deal.
Funny you should say that, as I am actually in between (as in exactly halfway) an 11.5B & 11.5C. There are some styles and lasts that I avoid because they just don't work. Even going up in size and making modifications leaves me dissatisfied with the outcome. Hence, I have learned from experience to stick with certain sizes in certain lasts and approach other make ups with caution. Just goes with the territory I imagine.
I have had almost the exact experience with the same sizes. Tried 5 last rough collection in 8.5D, width fit but too long. Tried 5 last independence collection in 8.5D, width a bit snug and too long (heel slip). Tried 5 last rough collection in 8D, width too snug and felt too short.
Magic combo, 5 last rough 8E, 5 last independence 8E or EEE (depending on fit in store).
Long way of saying, adding width makes a world of difference.
My replacement Rutledges arrived last evening. The first pair (which were seconds from the sale) had a split seam on the foxing. AE happily replaced them, and luckily, they had another pair of walnuts in my size. These seem to be in good shape. Only a couple of very minor markings on the sides by the welt. Not at all noticeable. The left toe box has a small compression area from the last I am guessing. Not sure. I think it will work out after a bit of wear.
On another note, I order two paris of custom Neumoks during this current promotion. One pair of red and whites on 1/28, and a pair of all football on 1/30. I called yesterday to see what the status was, as I had seen some on here had received theirs. AE told me the red and white ones were completed on 2/26, but did not pass inspection. So they will remake them and they will not be done until March 29th. The status of my football ones is that they will not be done until March 12th. This really baffles me because the AE website says that if you order by March 3 you will get them by March 19th. So if production time is 16 days, why so long for my order? I am really baffled by this. Nonetheless, I look forward to getting them, and appreciate AEs great customer service in replacing my Rutledges.
There are 4 new suede Stands up on the website, pretty bold
Oh no! Are these ugly shoes what we're getting instead of a cappuccino shell bonanza?
Looks like these will be the webgem for the next month....has there ever been two big webgems at the same time?
Ugh.....those suede Strands are not attractive at all. What a let down compared to the thought of some beautiful cappuccino shell.
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