ALLEN EDMONDS APPRECIATION THREAD EDITION 2O22

[savvysartorial]

Fully aware. You can't be outside of the rabbit hole if you have an Alden makeup named after you. Only reason I got these was because they were partially funded as a birthday gift.

Luckily, there are only a few other Alden makeups that I'm really interested in and nobody currently makes them.

Hahah! Well that's certainly very true.... Those are some special shoes!

Well that saves the wallet substantially... What else are you after?? That's the one issue I have with Alden, but the delayed gratification is honestly kind of nice.

I mostly have experience with the Rancourt 115 last (which is the same as the AE 511 last).

I believe the camp mocs are made on the 800 last. Here is a description of AE lasts, including the 800:
HANDSEWN LASTS

114 Last: Allen Edmonds’ 114 last features a semi-round toe and a slightly shorter vamp; the last is fuller across the ball of the foot. It is the most standard last Allen Edmonds uses as well as the most true to size, as it has no elongation and width is as expected.
Models: Cavanaugh, Lowry Hill, Maxfield, Nashua

145 Last: Allen Edmonds’ 114 last features a slightly square toe with an elongated forepart; it is generally employed for driving shoes.
Models: Boulder, Eldorado

555 Last: Allen Edmonds’ 555 last features a shorter forepart, a round toe with a tighter instep, and a low vamp, providing a snug fit. This last provides a good fit for those with a high instep and arch.
Models: Sanibel 2.0, Northland, Hagerstown, Bates, Bar Harbor, Maritime, Kirkwood, Sandman

800 Last: Allen Edmonds’ 800 last features a sleek and rounded toe and a steep arch; this last is roomier across the ball of the foot, and it has a rounded shape. Despite being roomy, it’s not considered a “wide” last.
Models: Kenwood, Sanibel

2592 Last: Allen Edmond’s 2592 last features a round and full toe. It is 1/8 inch longer than the 114 last to accommodate a fuller, foam sock liner and heel-to-toe padding.
Models: Center Fielder, Haley, Eastport, Interstate 90, Ventura Hwy

And the Rancourt site says this about the 800 last:

“Great last for casual handsewn shoes like boat shoes and ranger-mocs. Classic round toe like the 114 but slightly longer with a broader and taller toe box for a roomier fit. Order your normal Rancourt size.”

My experience with the 2592 last was that it had a roomier instep (more volume) and slightly less length than I expected. That is based on a sample of “one,” so it might be an outlier.

Thank you very much for the details. Yes, it looks like the 800 last. So you stay TTS across all those lasts? My concern was mainly with my Patriot (suede) fit of 11.5D, but everything else 11D.

I was thinking Rancourt would be an easy 11D in their makeups... Agreed? Just thrown off because I'll be sockless in them.

Well, she passed inspection for another year. Higgins Mills and the G Shock for errands and maybe a little lawn care when I get home… Stay cool, shoe friends.

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Looking sharp!! Big AE fan! The vanity plate to seal the deal.

Love the G shock, have one myself, although I put a bull bar on it so I don't ever smash the face. It's my go to nasty work/bike ride watch.

Been a long time since I tried on a Rancourt but I can comment on AEs lasts ad nauseum based on loads of experience.

114 - generally agree with AEs description. Very average length, width, instep. For someone familiar with the 65 & welted lasts, I would expect comments like "runs short," or "runs a little snug in width" maybe.

2592 - this is a tricky one. All things equal, it's like a hair longer than the 114 but otherwise the same. Because AE has historically been very inconsistent with sizing in the handsewns, And because they tend to use lots of poron and other padding, it's highly possible the 2592 might feel equal to the 114 or even smaller depending on the style.

555 - like they took the 114, widened the toe and squashed down the vamp. I find the instep brutal in this last.

800 - like they took the 114 and raised up the vamp. Similar to the 2592, sizing inconsistencies plus padding might negate any extra room.

In terms of Rancourt, you won't see the sizing inconsistencies there. Rancourt's builds are super clean and super consistent. With unlined chromepaks & cxls, you also won't see any reduction in volume. The vamp should be nice and flexible too.

The Patriot is kind of different but as a single data point, I'd say if the 11.5D was OK and not to the wire, go with that. You should expect slightly less length, similar width, roomier heel & roomier vamp.

Coincidentally I got my first pnw boot too - Whites cykel. Not as cool as yours but then again I don't have any Aldens named by me either.

Edit - forgot about the 145 because it totally doesn't fit in this set. It fits very similar to a Grayson.

You are the last MASTER! Thank you for the detailed write up!! The unlined part is why I am excited about not worrying on sizing differences; just need to dial in the initial fit.

You're saying that I should base my Rancourt off the Patriot in suede and forget/forgo my 65 sizing (with dress socks)?

Nice!! I hope you like them... Have they arrived or did you just order (and the dreaded wait)? You're a pretty cool cat yourself!


I ended up buying some White's Perry Boots (8") for general light(er) duty work on a whim (online sizing). When I went to Spokane, I visited and was professionally sized at White's (I sized myself wrong at home, surprise!) but I can still wear my Perrys ok without the insole.

I was going to visit Nick's boots, but they were closed until mid-afternoon which didn't work with the schedule so I went to Frank's boot and got sized - If you haven't checked out Frank's, you should. Very small mom and pop shop and Frank himself used to be a high level manager at Nick's.


Ended up buying a really nice pair of logger boots from Frank's and then once I was home, ordered a second pair but for dress wear (Lord help me). Haha.


Will post photos when they arrive this fall.

 

[EdwardWilson]

MacNeil in Oxblood which needs a coat or three of Saphir Renovateur + Hermes Red.
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Your shoes rule.

 

[savvysartorial]

Took two steps into work and my (admittedly just Zara) shoe disintegrated. I'm going to file this away as "things that don't happen to you when you wear AE to work". So often, women's shoes really are made like trash, and we consume a lot of products that are basically intended to be disposable. I wonder if I'd just shrug and move on if I didn't actually understand what I was missing, having learned so much about quality over the years.

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Woof! That's no good!

I haven't kept up with the times, but did you ever land in STL or are you still in SC?

Happy Friday forum pals. I elected to wear some vintage Hanover PTBs to go in to this three day weekend. These are LB Sheppard signature, which was their top of the line at the time. This pair was made around the early 1980s.

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Looking sharp! Stitching on the welt is very clean; those are gorgeous.

 

[FatTuesday]

Good news - vacation shoes today!
Sea Island suede beef roll loafers...

Bad news - ...at the office.

Happy Independence Day weekend, ladies & gents!

 

[MajorDash]

Hahah! Well that's certainly very true.... Those are some special shoes!

Well that saves the wallet substantially... What else are you after?? That's the one issue I have with Alden, but the delayed gratification is honestly kind of nice.

These specifically.

I would also like the Atom on Plaza in Ravello, but that won’t ever happen for someone like myself.

 

[sam67]

Found this Concord. Made 1989-1994. Didn’t need much.

 

[Neo1]

Hahah! Well that's certainly very true.... Those are some special shoes!

Well that saves the wallet substantially... What else are you after?? That's the one issue I have with Alden, but the delayed gratification is honestly kind of nice.




Thank you very much for the details. Yes, it looks like the 800 last. So you stay TTS across all those lasts? My concern was mainly with my Patriot (suede) fit of 11.5D, but everything else 11D.

I was thinking Rancourt would be an easy 11D in their makeups... Agreed? Just thrown off because I'll be sockless in them.




Looking sharp!! Big AE fan! The vanity plate to seal the deal.

Love the G shock, have one myself, although I put a bull bar on it so I don't ever smash the face. It's my go to nasty work/bike ride watch.




You are the last MASTER! Thank you for the detailed write up!! The unlined part is why I am excited about not worrying on sizing differences; just need to dial in the initial fit.

You're saying that I should base my Rancourt off the Patriot in suede and forget/forgo my 65 sizing (with dress socks)?

Nice!! I hope you like them... Have they arrived or did you just order (and the dreaded wait)? You're a pretty cool cat yourself!


I ended up buying some White's Perry Boots (8") for general light(er) duty work on a whim (online sizing). When I went to Spokane, I visited and was professionally sized at White's (I sized myself wrong at home, surprise!) but I can still wear my Perrys ok without the insole.

I was going to visit Nick's boots, but they were closed until mid-afternoon which didn't work with the schedule so I went to Frank's boot and got sized - If you haven't checked out Frank's, you should. Very small mom and pop shop and Frank himself used to be a high level manager at Nick's.


Ended up buying a really nice pair of logger boots from Frank's and then once I was home, ordered a second pair but for dress wear (Lord help me). Haha.


Will post photos when they arrive this fall.

Love hearing about your experience with the pnw boots I got the cykel already and have worn them enough I can definitely say I want more lol. Would love to visit whites but don't have the time at the moment. I have said this before, but if you or anyone else has never worked with Kyle Baker in Oregon he's outstanding, can't recommend anyone more.

Normally I wouldn't recommend basing the rancourt sizing on the Patriot but that's gonna be a lot closer - the 65 is very different. The handsewn 800, 114, 2592 lasts are just shorter in length. Definitely don't use the 65 as a starting point.

 

[dougc33]

omg HP 12C sighting!! Brings back memories/nightmares of calc...

 

[Garrister]

Hey all, popping in. Haven’t been in GYW shoes much recently with staying at home (loafers are the exception). Miss you guys!

Recently had a trip to Spokane and ended up buying some stitch down boots (MTO) from a local place up there… very, very excited to have those come in. One hard work pair and one casual boot. Happy to give any input or information for those interested.


**Posting today mainly to get input from our resident Rancourt crew for sizing…. Paging @mreams99 and others.

How true is sizing across their shoes? I’m specifically looking at Camp Mocs for unlined wear… 11D AE on 65 last with socks. Had to step up to 11.5D on Patriot in suede.

Might venture into other designs soon, but the camp Mocs are what I’m after.
Thanks!!

Generally, if you wear a 11.5D in the Patriot, I would probably go with that size for the Rancourt Camp Mocs -- at least I went with the same sizing. The AE 65 last is a long last -- so I think many can get away with sizing down. The AE 606 last is a more true to size last.

 

[Baybombers]

Don‘t know if this kind of request is frowned upon but does anyone have pics of Daltons with a swap out for flat laces? I have a pair of #8 cordovan and am wondering how it would look.
Thanks.

 

[EdwardWilson]

If I were a 10.5 D I would love these forever and ever.

LNWOB Allen Edmonds Schautal (Macneil) Natural Horween Dublin 10.5D | eBay

For sale is a pair of Allen Edmonds Schautal Longwings in natural Dublin leather size 10.5D. This model is a Nordstrom exclusive from a while back. These have been tried on and show slight wear to the outsoles, but are unworn.

www.ebay.com

 

[mreams99]

Don‘t know if this kind of request is frowned upon but does anyone have pics of Daltons with a swap out for flat laces? I have a pair of #8 cordovan and am wondering how it would look.
Thanks.

Not frowned upon.

My Daltons have the round laces. I would be interested in seeing a pair of Daltons with flat laces too. We might be out of luck getting much response on a holiday weekend.

 

[MajorDash]

@AE_Lauren

So I have heard rumors that we are going to be receiving our next special drop next week… I’ve also been told that there will be a welted and sneaker version of the release… I have theoretically been shown the pictures of the welted release, but not the sneaker release…


Are the sneakers going to be as big of an abomination as my brain is making them out to be, or are they actually kinda cool?

 

[armedferret]

Back on my bullshat again.

 

[blewnote1]

Back on my bullshat again.

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If you venture over to Frenchmen st, I'll be slinging tunes and rocking AE's from 2-6 at Bamboulas. Enjoy your stay!