ALLEN EDMONDS APPRECIATION THREAD 2021: News, pictures, clothing, accessories, etc.

[Neo1]

Yeah, I figured that's what I would do. Order one in 1/2 size up and see if it works out and still hold this one just in case.

In regards to the Lombard, it's a boot that Neo1 loves, so you know how I feel about it.

I had to LOL earlier when I read this comment I admit. Even more ironic given some of the follow-up discussions...

I suggested the Lombard precisely because I DON'T love it. I would even go so far as to say I don't even like it that much. If they put out a chelsea or loafer platform, I'm gonna take notice of it, plain and simple. Beyond that, that's about it.

In terms of creating something with broad-based marketing appeal, putting out the Liverpool was probably not the wisest move in my opinion. It's a badass, sleek boot that runs on the narrow/low volume side and putting it on the same last as the Cornwallis will severely cut down the # of potential customers.

On the other hand you take the Lombard - if you fit into the standard stock, 65-last styles, this WILL work for you in some configuration, whether it be normal size, up/down length/width etc. It WILL work, as opposed to a Liverpool which may NOT work in any configuration.

Full disclosure - I've never tried a Landon myself. I tried a Cyrus chukka, but that's it. But extrapolating from my experience with the 65 vs. the 201 to the 1757 vs. the 2622 - if the 1757 fits really really well in some length/width combination, the other will never work optimally for you. Whereas if the 65 works in 8D, the Lombard will work in 8D. That was really my point in the recommendation more than anything else.

I hope that makes sense - in general I don't recommend anything to you that I stylistically or fit-wise LOVE for myself as I know you'd most likely hate it.

 

[Neo1]

My conjure is the search for the last that fits more feet. Less intricate and more generic. If more people can fit D width, there is less need for more widths. They really want to get away from the 65 last expanded size range. If they keep the 65 last, they still make a lot of styles in a ton of sizes.

So you know I regard you as the "brains" behind this thread, clearly the one with the most knowledge/wisdom of well...anyone else. So I mean the most respect when I say I completely disagree with this comment.

I have felt for a long time that whoever is in charge of AE takes an approach kind of like a low IQ dalmation or the Joker from the Dark Knight - basically a blind-folded person throwing darts at the wall. Trying whatever new lasts, styles, etc. with close to zero rhyme or reason behind it.

They discontinued the Wooster Street, which was the "easiest" fitting loafer I've seen come out of AE in a long time, while keeping the Grayson & Randolph? They discontinued the Long Branch in favor of the Chapman, on an uknown, unvetted last that's surely not stocked in retail B&M stores to try out? I could go on and on. No idea what they're thinking but imo it's certainly not trying to accomodate as many people as possible fit-wise.

 

[Neo1]

For years the 511 aka the "One" last, was sort of the default boot last for AE. Dalton, Long Branch, Dundee, Bayfield (if I remember right). TTS. Seemed to work for most folks. Rancourt even co-opted it and calls it the 115.

So what changed?

(Speaking of ,,, the Bradley. Burg shell)

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What can I say - Rancourt was ahead of its time - they came out with that last designation before the release of Tenet in theaters.

 

[JFWR]

How does the Grayson fit, anyway? I have never been able to find a good fit with a loafer.

 

[EdwardWilson]

How does the Grayson fit, anyway? I have never been able to find a good fit with a loafer.

It’s the 97 last. My problem is my ankles are so thin that my feet are always slipping out of a loafer. With laces the 97 last fits fine, but of course the laces serve to keep the foot in the shoe.

 

[Neo1]

How does the Grayson fit, anyway? I have never been able to find a good fit with a loafer.

SO good timing with this comment. That was my whole point earlier. The Wooster Street is perfectly "regular" - it's like a loafer version of a Park Ave / Strand etc. My guess is you'd have no problem with it. The Lake Forest is also pretty accomodating.

The Grayson fits very flat at the vamp, very wide at the heel and very tapered in the toe-box. Increasing the width on something like that can easily make the heelcup unmanageable. Compared to those other two, imo much harder to work with.

 

[JFWR]

SO good timing with this comment. That was my whole point earlier. The Wooster Street is perfectly "regular" - it's like a loafer version of a Park Ave / Strand etc. My guess is you'd have no problem with it. The Lake Forest is also pretty accomodating.

The Grayson fits very flat at the vamp, very wide at the heel and very tapered in the toe-box. Increasing the width on something like that can easily make the heelcup unmanageable. Compared to those other two, imo much harder to work with.

Yeah, exactly what I don't need in a shoe. I have extremely wide toes, narrow heel, and my foot isn't especially flat.

Thanks friend.

 

[Neo1]

It’s the 97 last. My problem is my ankles are so thin that my feet are always slipping out of a loafer. With laces the 97 last fits fine, but of course the laces serve to keep the foot in the shoe.

The usage of the 97 is incredibly weird - on the loafers I've found it incredibly variable, but for some reason with the MacNeil they created something imo that's so accomodating it's ridiculous - it's like the perfect platform almost. My burgundy shell Macneil was one of the few pairs I remember having zero break-in for - I usually have at least a day or two but not with that one.

Another example of something they discontinued.

 

[JFWR]

It’s the 97 last. My problem is my ankles are so thin that my feet are always slipping out of a loafer. With laces the 97 last fits fine, but of course the laces serve to keep the foot in the shoe.

Thanks friend. Yep. Not for me.

 

[EdwardWilson]

The usage of the 97 is incredibly weird - on the loafers I've found it incredibly variable, but for some reason with the MacNeil they created something imo that's so accomodating it's ridiculous - it's like the perfect platform almost. My burgundy shell Macneil was one of the few pairs I remember having zero break-in for - I usually have at least a day or two but not with that one.

Another example of something they discontinued.

It is generally accepted in the shoe community that the Mac Neil was the best shoe Allen Edmonds ever produced. I would go so far as to say a scientific consensus has been reached and only fools dispute this fact.

 

[stook1]

It is generally accepted in the shoe community that the Mac Neil was the best shoe Allen Edmonds ever produced. I would go so far as to say a scientific consensus has been reached and only fools dispute this fact.

Disagree. I thought it was generally accepted that the Strand was the best AE shoe ever produced. I also think the MacNeil should have a slightly rounder toe akin to Florsheim, for example. I suppose the 97 is a differentiator relative to it's competitors. By the way, I like the MacNeil.

 

[James1051]

To me the Landon last feels most like Barrie.

I told a mutual friend in Charleston this very thing about 2 hours ago. Might be great sized half down (12.5 does not exist for this boot, so TS for me), but TTS its too much boot.

Happy Friday Eve boys! Some loooong collars for the day's fare.

The Mrs. is at a friend's dinner party so it's me and the baby this evening. First time she's left the baby since she was born 2.5 months ago. Baby cuddles are certainly a new experience!

Spoiler: Custom collars

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Congrats, Pops!

My conjure is the search for the last that fits more feet. Less intricate and more generic. If more people can fit D width, there is less need for more widths. They really want to get away from the 65 last expanded size range. If they keep the 65 last, they still make a lot of styles in a ton of sizes.

I have my theories in regards to new lasts:
1. Americans are much fatter today than we were in the past. Lasts that were designed 30+ years ago may not fit today’s population as well, even in the wider lasts.
2. Styling. Today’s designers might not want to be limited by the shape of certain legacy lasts. Although I’m having a hard time differentiating much visual difference between some of the newer lasts.
3. Comfort. A lot of people grew up wearing soft, spongy shoes. I think that the Leeds 2.0 showed that it’s more complicated than just slapping in a layer of Poron and raising the last (increasing the height).

My theory half baked conjecture is that its all about finding easy builds and reduced Reject #s.
The discontinued lasts had high reject rates. Can't build them anymore. So dump those, loosen up all the specs, build 'm bigger and wider, .... Profit!

How does the Grayson fit, anyway? I have never been able to find a good fit with a loafer.

Flip flop loose at the heel. Width down and hope your toes can take the pressure. Ditto, the Randolph. Here, I agree w Neo. The two GYW survivors in AE's loafer line-up are notoriously difficult fits, but must be pretty easy to build. By contrast, the Patriot fit pretty well TTS, but the guys in Wisconsin couldn't build it, so...adios

 

[Count de Monet]

I’m maybe an outlier but the Grayson fits me great. I have a high instep and wide heels. The relative height and/or slope accommodates my instep. The Magraw on the 4 last works, too, but it is a bit loose in my normal size. Only loafer that fits me better is arguably the C&J Cavandish on their 325 (dropping down a half size to UK).. Harder to get on than the Grayson but fits like it was made for me once on.

Macneil fits me like a glove. So of course they drop it and also phase out most of the 511’s.

I think Neo is right, they’re just throwing darts at the wall.

 

[BFT9000]

It is generally accepted in the shoe community that the Mac Neil was the best shoe Allen Edmonds ever produced. I would go so far as to say a scientific consensus has been reached and only fools dispute this fact.

Which shoe community are we talking about? Certainly not the one where I'm constantly blasting everyone with more Strand content than anyone has ever wanted or asked for?

 

[FatTuesday]

So you know I regard you as the "brains" behind this thread, clearly the one with the most knowledge/wisdom of well...anyone else...

Wait - what?!?!
You lost me at @Shoenut being the brains of the bunch. I see us collectively more as the Scarecrow in The Wizard of Oz.