Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2020 - News, Pictures, Clothing, Accessories, etc.

[EZB]

Where does one get the "large tin"?

Amazon

 

[James1051]

Gentlemen,
The Randolphs I mentioned the other day landed this morning. It would be absurd for me to complain since this pair was stupid cheap. Having said that they arrived just coated in years of excess polish. The seller included the cordovan cream and the little application brush that I guess had been used. The brush was even caked with polish. Why do people do that with shell? Fortunately, I happen to have renomat on hand, which did an excellent job of stripping all the nasty gunk off the shoes, which revealed a truly superb patina. FAR better than anticipated.

In my rush to start the restoration, I unfortunately neglected to take before pics. I really wish I had though since the before/after is astonishing. I'll need to decide what to do about the soles on this pair. They aren't soft yet, although they are worn, and the toes are pretty thin in particular. The heel lifts are basically shot. I might just re-hell and topy them for now. I need to see if they fit first. Haven't even tried them on yet.

Here's how they look now.

View attachment 1324422

Congrats! your good fortune and your restoration work have produced a beautiful shoe!

"Pre-Caleres."

Is that a thing?

As the Strand was my first AE purchase--and still my favorite--I have long been curious about the Bartlett; that is, an "upscale" Strand, if such an item really does exist. Whenever the notion has struck me, I've done a dabondo1 search on the popular auction site for a Bartlett in my size over the past year or so.

Enter the recent AE sale, where a first-quality walnut Bartlett was sub-$300. I needed another pair of AE like I needed a hole in my head (just ask my wife) but at that price, I couldn't resist.

One curious issue I'd noted with the Bartlett is that many--but not all--seem to have an unfinished, "raw edge" around the collar of the shoe that evidently isn't too noticeable while being worn, but is decidedly shabby finishing work for a top-of-the-line AE. Through online research and the assistance of StyleForum™ member Profila Binding, I pieced together the history of this "raw edge" issue: Shortly after the acquisition of AE, the bean counters at Caleres determined they could save a cup of coffee by abandoning the more labor-intensive traditional piped collar edge of the Bartlett, and under the marketing guise of "updated, modern styling," switching to a less time-consuming technique of simply cutting the leather (relatively) flush along the edge of the collar.

After extensive complaints regarding the aforementioned aesthetic, AE/Caleres reverted to the traditional collar piping again in 2019. The ultra-soft, supple lambskin lining of the new production, however, has been noted to be something less than as ultra-soft and supple as it was when the Bartlett was first introduced.

Just before the sale ended last week, I'd determined there were 9 pairs of the Bartlett remaining in my size: 5 in the warehouse, and 4 in stores. I called each of the 4 stores, and I found that the pair in three of the stores had the cheapie "raw edge" characteristic. The fourth pair was described over the phone as the rounded-over piping I was looking for, and when I probed the unsuspecting phone rep if these might be a pre-Caleres holdover, he started to tell me that yes; by virtue of the box they looked to be an older pair, until his salesman instinct that told him to hype a factory-fresh pair instead of some old fuddy-duddies collecting dust in the back room evidently kicked in, and he corrected it to, "Well...I'd say they may be from 3-4 months ago or so." I pulled the trigger on that pair.

Upon arrival, I pulled them out of the box to find briefly tried-on, walk-around-for-a-few-minutes scuffing on the soles, and a light scuff or two on the uppers. Those things don't bother me, and I had the idea these were an in-store return at some point. I deferred once again via electronic missive to the expertise of StyleForum™ member Profila Binding, and by virtue of the older-type box, the date on the box, the small Allen Edmonds gold stamp on the heel cushion, the soft-as-butter lambskin lining, and of course the traditional piping along the collar, he opined that my extra work had paid off: I'd landed a pre-Caleres pair of first-quality Bartlett, where no expense was spared in the production.

The overwhelming majority of my AE rotation has been culled together from dabondo1 offerings, with a 1990s shell MacNiel and a few other vintage pairs sprinkled in. The Bartlett is only my second brand new purchase, and I don't know that I own a post-Caleres shoe--at least none with the big ALLEN EDMONDS letters I see on their website stamped into the footbeds of their current production.

Has there actually been a tangible drop in quality, and does anyone seek out new/old stock pre-Caleres shoes?

Congrats on a great pick up

Where does one get the "large tin"?

got mine on Amazon

 

[audog]

Congrats! your good fortune and your restoration work have produced a beautiful shoe!


Congrats on a great pick up


got mine on Amazon

Just found it on Amazon! Ordered!

 

[CommanderMcBragg]

The change in the style of binding came before the Caleres takeover. It was originally suspected to be a cost-cutting move. I believe that Paul G. himself told us that this “raw edge” style still had a binding, and the binding was actually slightly more expensive than the previous version. The change was made purely for styling.

I have not seen any evidence of a drop in quality since AE was bought by Caleres.

Hello mreams99--

I am a decided AE fan and I own roughly 2 pairs for every day of the week. That said, I present Exhibit A: a pair of new-in-box Bartlett being offered now on the popular auction site...

Does this "raw edge" bespeak a premium $530 shoe...?

 

[audog]

Hello mreams99--

I am a decided AE fan and I own roughly 2 pairs for every day of the week. That said, I present Exhibit A: a pair of new-in-box Bartlett being offered now on the popular auction site...

View attachment 1324437

Does this "raw edge" bespeak a premium $530 shoe...?

It does not, maybe a $350 shoe or more like a $50.30 shoe

 

[audog]

Hello mreams99--

I am a decided AE fan and I own roughly 2 pairs for every day of the week. That said, I present Exhibit A: a pair of new-in-box Bartlett being offered now on the popular auction site...

View attachment 1324437

Does this "raw edge" bespeak a premium $530 shoe...?

And that, right there, is why I am having doubts about a Suede TS product. QC with other companies seems to be higher and life is too short to F* with returns and aggravation over footwear.

 

[EZB]

And that, right there, is why I am having doubts about a Suede TS product. QC with other companies seems to be higher and life is too short to F* with returns and aggravation over footwear.

To be fair, this is not a QC issue, but a standards issue. I’m confident suede will be a good show. The shoes being made are pretty much mainline shoes. Suede is probably easier to work with than shell, and the models all had clear piping, stitching, etc, in that sample

 

[audog]

To be fair, this is not a QC issue, but a standards issue. I’m confident suede will be a good show. The shoes being made are pretty much mainline shoes. Suede is probably easier to work with than shell, and the models all had clear piping, stitching, etc, in that sample

I still have my doubts, last 3 pair of new, retail AE I have bought have not been "excellent". And I'm a long time, many pair owner, who likes AE a lot. (over 90 pair in the closet at the moment). But stuff like that makes me leery......

 

[ProfilaBinding]

The change in the style of binding came before the Caleres takeover. It was originally suspected to be a cost-cutting move. I believe that Paul G. himself told us that this “raw edge” style still had a binding, and the binding was actually slightly more expensive than the previous version. The change was made purely for styling.

I have not seen any evidence of a drop in quality since AE was bought by Caleres.

Of course, I can't resist a discussion about profila binding. I do remember Paul posting the same comments you mentioned. I will only point out that the newer Bartlett's (2019 and beyond) do have a different feeling in regards to the insole lining. It's different in some way that I cannot describe. Not quite as soft as the stuff they used in 2017. Perhaps they changed it slightly because the softer lining was bleeding too often? Or perhaps they never did change the lining and could be variation within the lambskin? As far as when exactly the change happened with profila binding, I'm not exactly sure. Sometime in 2016, which would have been before Calares took over. Some pairs that were made in early 2016 probably had piping.

 

[DoubleOldFashioned]

Hello mreams99--

I am a decided AE fan and I own roughly 2 pairs for every day of the week. That said, I present Exhibit A: a pair of new-in-box Bartlett being offered now on the popular auction site...

View attachment 1324437

Does this "raw edge" bespeak a premium $530 shoe...?

I have some AE shoes with profila binding, and some with piping and I notice no difference when wearing them. It works better on black, though, and I prefer it on more casual shoes.

As others have noted, it started in 2016 before Caleras, it wasn’t cheaper and was supposed to help dressy shoes to be worn more casually.

edit: looks like Profila Binding née Lobster chimed in a minute before I did.

 

[ProfilaBinding]

Speaking of, does anyone know when exactly Caleres bought AE? Was it in December 2016?

Edit: Never mind -- simple google search shows it happened in "late 2016" (probably November or December).

 

[Shoenut]

I have nothing to back this up and it is just a gut feeling but I think AE is about 6 months from an Independence relaunch. Probably simple elegant designs with what they do best. Call me crazy.

 

[manowar]

The profila binding on my Jefferson 2.0’s is similarly rough looking. For reference, they were also purchased on eBay.

I wish they’d relaunch the Harrison, Rutledge, and Jefferson 1....

 

[ProfilaBinding]

The profila binding on my Jefferson 2.0’s is similarly rough looking. For reference, they were also purchased on eBay.

I wish they’d relaunch the Harrison, Rutledge, and Jefferson 1....

I think pb works better on cap toes, not brogues. When there are multiple pieces being sewn together, I think that's the issue that makes them turn out rough. My Hopkinson shoes and Cheaney shoes have it, and they both look fine. The Rutledge needs to return, but my impression is AE thought the 333 was a failure (which I don't think it was). They could easily bring it back on the 1943. The Harrison was probably the most badass version of the PA design that I've seen.

 

[BFT9000]

Totally agree. The mottled effect of the reddish brown is great, and is highlighted by the edge color, which appears to be antique/chili. That shoe is a winner.

Switching gears, does anybody have photos of the Tan Grain Strandmok in the wild? @BFT9000 ? This is the one on sale now with some of the other "weatherproof" models. Weatherproofing aside, I love the look of this tan grain.

And one more Q. Folks who have the nubuck Hamiltons, does that leather have any water repellent qualities? Like Alden Chamois, is what I am wondering?

This one?