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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2020 - News, Pictures, Clothing, Accessories, etc.

James1051

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Should warn you that you won’t see a Patriot in a TS. AE doesn’t want to make them. Too many errors in production, part of the reason they are going away.
If that is so, they might want to find another GYW loafer to replace it. Randolph is hit or miss for lots of folks, me included (only miss), while the competition makes loafers that fit, on multiple lasts. In my little corner of the shoe world, AE has ceded loafers to the competition.
 

madhat

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If that is so, they might want to find another GYW loafer to replace it. Randolph is hit or miss for lots of folks, me included (only miss), while the competition makes loafers that fit, on multiple lasts. In my little corner of the shoe world, AE has ceded loafers to the competition.
Agreed.
 

Shoenut

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If that cut wasn't there, I would have been able to identify two-three relatively minimal reasons why they were seconds, but I would have kept them. I actually looked them over to see if I even wanted to bother trying them on. I got the right shoe on. Then this cut made its presence known when I started putting the left shoe on.
¿Blemish?
 

manowar

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HM is the 1757 also, but I have found HM runs larger than other 1757. Try same size as on HM or 1/2 size up.
I don’t understand this.
A 1757 last is shaped the same regardless of what boot is made on it.
Sure, there are some fit differences between open-laced (derby/blucher) versus closed lace (Oxford/balmoral) designs. If the shoes were built on the same last, then the heel and toebox fit and the length should all be similar.
I have found variance between different shoes made on the same last, even in the same model. I attribute that to some slight variances between lasts of the same size, and some differences in how the workers build the shoe.
My Rothsay boots (also on the 1757) fit a little more narrow than my Higgins in the same size. I've often read that cxl fits a little larger, and I've found that to be true for the most part. It could just be variation within how they were made. It took me years to realize that I can't give anyone any absolute fitting advice because I've experienced so much variation in sizing. I've got an 8.5 D PA that fit tighter than an 8 D pair. "Just try it on" as my local AE guy says in Century City.
Just as I imagined. Other than @audog who only uses his $425 boots for collecting grass clippings and doggy fur, everyone says the Rainier runs smaller than the HM. :p

Maybe it has to do with the plain toe construction in addition to the stretchy CXL (what about the waxy or pebbled leather?). The plain toe has just one piece of leather covering the vamp and toe (other than the lining) which will stretch/relax more easily from the pressure of feet and shoe trees. It seems to me that the more busy the pattern for an upper is, the smaller it tends to fit. Maybe the larger quantity of leather on a busier pattern has a higher resistance to stretching during lasting process, slightly shrinking after the last is removed.

Well at less than $200 after tax, the Rainier still seems like a good buy, while maybe not the greatest boot.
 

audog

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Just as I imagined. Other than @audog who only uses his $425 boots for collecting grass clippings and doggy fur, everyone says the Rainier runs smaller than the HM. :p

Maybe it has to do with the plain toe construction in addition to the stretchy CXL (what about the waxy or pebbled leather?). The plain toe has just one piece of leather covering the vamp and toe (other than the lining) which will stretch/relax more easily from the pressure of feet and shoe trees. It seems to me that the more busy the pattern for an upper is, the smaller it tends to fit. Maybe the larger quantity of leather on a busier pattern has a higher resistance to stretching during lasting process, slightly shrinking after the last is removed.

Well at less than $200 after tax, the Rainier still seems like a good buy, while maybe not the greatest boot.
At $200 it’s an ok boot, and I just tried both on and fit is still really similar on my feet.
 

manowar

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At $200 it’s an ok boot, and I just tried both on and fit is still really similar on my feet.
Cool, thanks for the additional feedback! Do you find the Itshide Commando sole to be unstable? Just looking at how small the lugged area is on the forefoot makes me wonder.
 

EZB

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Cool, thanks for the additional feedback! Do you find the Itshide Commando sole to be unstable? Just looking at how small the lugged area is on the forefoot makes me wonder.
I have it on my HM. Not at all unstable.
 

mreams99

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I always liked the look of the Ranier. Unfortunately it was not made in B-width.
 

lemmy127

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Should warn you that you won’t see a Patriot in a TS. AE doesn’t want to make them. Too many errors in production, part of the reason they are going away.
Well then I don’t know if they’ll get much business from me. No offense to guys that like their other half strap penny loafers offerings, but all of them have some glaring issue to me whether it’s the last shape, the moc toe stitching, the penny slot shape, the assembly of the strap to the vamp, or just the construction of the shoe itself. After a lot of experimentation with my style over the past near-decade, I’ve settled into an Ivy-based comfort zone. And that has meant my shoe collection has become mostly longwings, half strap penny loafers, and tassel loafers. I have a few pairs of oxfords, but I never wear them.

If I was given a blank check and told I could MTO 25 pairs of AEs, I honestly think 12-18 of them would be Patriots or MacNeils. If they aren’t options in a trunk show, I’m not likely to participate.
 

instigateur

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Cold weather. A good excuse for boots.

IMG_20200120_120456.jpg
 

polojock615

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Well then I don’t know if they’ll get much business from me. No offense to guys that like their other half strap penny loafers offerings, but all of them have some glaring issue to me whether it’s the last shape, the moc toe stitching, the penny slot shape, the assembly of the strap to the vamp, or just the construction of the shoe itself. After a lot of experimentation with my style over the past near-decade, I’ve settled into an Ivy-based comfort zone. And that has meant my shoe collection has become mostly longwings, half strap penny loafers, and tassel loafers. I have a few pairs of oxfords, but I never wear them.

If I was given a blank check and told I could MTO 25 pairs of AEs, I honestly think 12-18 of them would be Patriots or MacNeils. If they aren’t options in a trunk show, I’m not likely to participate.
I'm pretty sure I could come up with 25 different HMs.
 

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