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instigateur

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Beautiful weather in greater Chicagoland this weekend. Saturday was the first time I've had real shoes on in a while, besides my boat shoes, and the first boot wear of the season. Natty Higgins at Cantigny worked out well.
IMG_20200919_152147.jpg
 

instigateur

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Sunday Funday. More great weather.

Donuts, coffee, and a walk around historic West Dundee with the Maritimes.
IMG_20200920_102124.jpg
 

ae_ashley

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Thank you both for weighing in. This is really helpful.

Yes, he is extremely flat footed. I could take them to the local Allen Edmonds store and have him try on a few different sizes. Which of their last most closely approximates the vintage Florsheim Kenmoor?
So although a 9D certainly wouldn't have been out of the question, and would have been a size I definitely would have brought out to try, i wonder if he should try an 8.5 E instead. They are sister sizes...think "same house, different floorplan", so they have the same amount of real-estate inside, but that space is moved around and that makes a difference. I'll admit that sometimes when you measure someone it's relatively cut and dry, but with your friend here...there are many variables and it isn't quite so simple. He'll need to play around a bit to find his happy middle ground between his two feet. I'd say see about that 8.5 E, listen to his feedback, and tweak from there. First to admit I know very little about vintage Florsheim so I'm not able to speak on that.

Edit: About the flat footed question- I do not ignore the arch measurement when someone is flat footed, but it's not uncommon to create slipping in the heel when you factor that in for someone who lacks and arch, because it's speaking to an arch that person doesn't have. So I bring that size out, but I know to watch for slipping in those cases. Most of the time I end up following heel to toe length on someone without an arch unless the arch measurement is considerably longer than the toe measurement (which your friend's kind of is, reinforcing the statement I made about many variables and needing to experiment). It's all kind of an art, not a science, in my opinion.
 
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Aenonymous

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They are being made in the DR. The Wilbert is so popular that it strains the PW plant. It could come back to PW depending on how other styles perform. Then again, I would keep the Wilbert in the DR based on Margins. The AE buyer will pay more for dress shoes and boots. But styles like the Wilbert and hand sewn shoes do not command as high of retail price. At least for AE customers.
"The Wilbert is so popular that it strains the PW plant"... Where did you come up with that nonsense? There is no straining. That's like saying Made in America is so popular they had to open a plant in the Dominican Republic to cut and sew all the uppers to keep up with MiUSA demand. Nonsense.
 

Shoenut

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"The Wilbert is so popular that it strains the PW plant"... Where did you come up with that nonsense? There is no straining. That's like saying Made in America is so popular they had to open a plant in the Dominican Republic to cut and sew all the uppers to keep up with MiUSA demand. Nonsense.
They did cut a bunch of jobs in PW. A lot of office jobs but there were quite a few in the factory. When you cut people it kills your ability to produce. Capacity is meaningless when you don’t have the horses to run the race.
 

Shoenut

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Thank you both for weighing in. This is really helpful.

Yes, he is extremely flat footed. I could take them to the local Allen Edmonds store and have him try on a few different sizes. Which of their last most closely approximates the vintage Florsheim Kenmoor?
So although a 9D certainly wouldn't have been out of the question, and would have been a size I definitely would have brought out to try, i wonder if he should try an 8.5 E instead. They are sister sizes...think "same house, different floorplan", so they have the same amount of real-estate inside, but that space is moved around and that makes a difference. I'll admit that sometimes when you measure someone it's relatively cut and dry, but with your friend here...there are many variables and it isn't quite so simple. He'll need to play around a bit to find his happy middle ground between his two feet. I'd say see about that 8.5 E, listen to his feedback, and tweak from there. First to admit I know very little about vintage Florsheim so I'm not able to speak on that.

Edit: About the flat footed question- I do not ignore the arch measurement when someone is flat footed, but it's not uncommon to create slipping in the heel when you factor that in for someone who lacks and arch, because it's speaking to an arch that person doesn't have. So I bring that size out, but I know to watch for slipping in those cases. Most of the time I end up following heel to toe length on someone without an arch unless the arch measurement is considerably longer than the toe measurement (which your friend's kind of is, reinforcing the statement I made about many variables and needing to experiment). It's all kind of an art, not a science, in my opinion.
I am also very flat footed with arch length greater than overall foot length. The solution that I like the best is to go with my arch length and go more narrow. But I am the first to admit that my sizing is a bit of an anomaly. I come from a culture or background if you will that wears their footwear way too small. I actually use the shoe to pick up my arch. My family all say that I wear my shoes too long. I don’t see an 8.5 out of the question. I agree with Ashley. Try sizes around that 9D. My biggest problem is that my foot is so malleable that I have trouble deciding on what size feels best. I have many sizes that all feel like great fits. Good luck.
 

shahtirthak

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Midnight Navy PA for today. The V-gap is more than I like but it only the 3rd (or 4th) wear and I am persisting with the bar lacing instead of the criss cross to try to reduce it faster.
Also trying to up the sock game (these socks were on clearance in a local shop here in Singapore).
Seiko SARB065 on a Navy NATO strap.
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20200921_110635.jpg
20200921_110130.jpg
 

Shoenut

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I'm curious if the Wilbert is still their no.1 selling casual shoe. I'm wondering if trends have changed that.
Don’t know but the Wilbert is a natural progression for an older gentleman that has worn Leeds and MacNeil all his working life. When these guys retire and still want to wear more business casual, the Wilbert is a great option. If you transition to mostly denim and “chinos” (cringe), then the sneaker or boots can be a good option. I am already buying less formal and more boots. I just don’t see myself wearing sneakers much but I can see a spot for a Chili PA or a suede Strand sneaker. I am still thinking about a shell sneaker but I don’t think I got the guts to gamble on sizing given my odd feet.
 

Lionel Hutz

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OT leather care question: I have this
briefcase from ColsenKeane and the leather has so much pull up in it that it’s rubbing off some on my clothes

141A15C2-F6B2-4B75-BD8B-87799E75F247.jpeg
Always washes out but it’s annoying is there something I can use like Bick 4 that will stop this from happening?
 
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friendlygoz

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So although a 9D certainly wouldn't have been out of the question, and would have been a size I definitely would have brought out to try, i wonder if he should try an 8.5 E instead. They are sister sizes...think "same house, different floorplan", so they have the same amount of real-estate inside, but that space is moved around and that makes a difference. I'll admit that sometimes when you measure someone it's relatively cut and dry, but with your friend here...there are many variables and it isn't quite so simple. He'll need to play around a bit to find his happy middle ground between his two feet. I'd say see about that 8.5 E, listen to his feedback, and tweak from there. First to admit I know very little about vintage Florsheim so I'm not able to speak on that.

Edit: About the flat footed question- I do not ignore the arch measurement when someone is flat footed, but it's not uncommon to create slipping in the heel when you factor that in for someone who lacks and arch, because it's speaking to an arch that person doesn't have. So I bring that size out, but I know to watch for slipping in those cases. Most of the time I end up following heel to toe length on someone without an arch unless the arch measurement is considerably longer than the toe measurement (which your friend's kind of is, reinforcing the statement I made about many variables and needing to experiment). It's all kind of an art, not a science, in my opinion.
Thanks so much. This is really helpful. I was thinking 8.5E as a starting point too. Vintage Florsheims have a very "average" last and tend to fit true to size. I really do appreciate this detailed feedback. Thank you so much.
 

Shoenut

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any thoughts on best color cup soles for the shell PA sneaker? i am going navy, just assuming white at the moment.
For Navy White is the best option. For most other colors I would tend to choose some other color.
 

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