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Shoenut

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Interesting video i found that i think some of you will enjoy.

The only thing that drives me nuts is where the content creator compares 1950 dollars to present day dollars. I work in an industry where my natural material costs have skyrocketed in the past 20 years. I would love to tell my supplier that according to the value of the 1999 dollar vs the 2019 dollar my price should only be $1.5 and not $4. After all in 1999 I was only paying .35 cents. They would say, no problem, we will just sell it for $4.25 to the next guy in line.
 

aero25

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AE only uses a handful of European tanneries. If they were calf, they would call it out. Premium to me means hides that are too big to be called calf. Nothing wrong with a well tanned Steer hide. I have said it before but let us remember that our beloved Chicago tannery is about 90% Steer hide. Shell is really a low percentage as those raw materials are really hard to come by. My next comment will be seen as heresy but our beloved CXL is not only partial chrome tanned but if you really get into the details, it is also semi corrected.
Yep, lots of stuff that's great leather that isn't called calf or shell. My comment is more because I'm a curious type, not insinuating inferior materials. Though, I can see how my comment may be construed that way, so I appreciate your reframe! I would like to know more about the semi-corrected nature of cxl you mentioned. I'm not a tannage process guru and, as I said earlier, I've a curious mind. If you've the time to post about it, I'd appreciate it!
 

instigateur

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Someone posted these in "Vintage Shoes" on eBay. They are Size 8.5D.

View attachment 1229677


Wonder if more people would see this listing if it was posted with all the other A-E shoes rather than in "Vintage"?
I have a pair. Beautiful
 

smfdoc

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Obligatory Sunday clean up shoe Appreciation, as visions of chili shell dance in our heads. (No, these are not chili.)

1229830
 

Shoenut

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audog

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OK, just ordered a pair of Alpine boots, someone here has to see what they are like. I have a thing for cap toe boots, like AE and they are on Vibram soles (no Dainite so that's a good thing) . Will post pix/review when the get here. Odd, but even though I have been ordering from AE for YEARS (since they first had a website), I'm still not a "member" of their "collectors" or whatever it is called, group. Almost makes me want to not deal with them as they keep bugging me during checkout.
 

Shoenut

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Yep, lots of stuff that's great leather that isn't called calf or shell. My comment is more because I'm a curious type, not insinuating inferior materials. Though, I can see how my comment may be construed that way, so I appreciate your reframe! I would like to know more about the semi-corrected nature of cxl you mentioned. I'm not a tannage process guru and, as I said earlier, I've a curious mind. If you've the time to post about it, I'd appreciate it!
They come really close to saying it on their website. There is a very detailed account of how they combination tan and hot stuff the leather. They say they need to correct for scars, insect bites, and brand marks. I wrote to them asking about how they achieve their corrections. They were very straight forward and wrote back that they lightly polish, buff, and in some cases sand the areas. Only those areas. There are a lot of different types of CXL and in some cases they actually have to simulate some scarring and bite marks for sone of the finishes. They actually make a CXL version of KUDU leather. Not to be confused with African antelope KUDU. Making CXL is a lot more complicated than doing a straight veg tan. It is kind of like the difference of making a pilsner beer vs. a Stout beer.
 

Count de Monet

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Open question:
Of the boots and shoes available, which models, in ranking order of both personal preference and as objective as possible, do you believe make more sense to prioritize getting in shell over calf? Also pretend the horror: you have an empty shoe closet.
...

Given your hypothetical, especially given you plan to get chili, it makes way more sense to me to get a casual boot over any dress shoe or dress boot.

So, a chili Bayfield or Dundee.
 

Shoenut

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When I was polishing these, I realized they are quite different shades despite being the same style number (merlot).
View attachment 1229849
I am not, nor will I ever be a style number guru, but did AE change the style number on Bourbon when they shifted from using a base Walnut leather that they hand burnished to Bourbon to an actual base Bourbon color from the tannery that they just finished? I miss the greenish tones of those seconds. Great pickups for an issue that is so easily corrected.
 
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