• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Status
Not open for further replies.

vmss

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2015
Messages
1,236
Reaction score
738

I think the "you could almost wear it as a pump substitute" argument is misplaced in this discussion of relative formality for at least two reasons.  First, a sleek, high polished stitch cap would be at least as good a substitute with a tux as the type of plain toe the Carlyle is.   Second, the models mentioned are all business dress shoes and ought to be ranked in that context, not formal wear.

I would rearrange them thus, assuming all are black:

1. Plain stitchcap (e.g. PA/Hopkinson)
2. Punch cap (e.g. 5th Ave.)
2. (tie)  whatever the Carlyle is
4. Cornwallis
5. Semi-brogue (e.g. Strand)
6. Full brogue (e.g. Mac)

BTW, I'm not sure if you mean the 5th Ave is a business casual shoe or it is a shoe that one can get away wearing with business casual clothes.  I would definitely respectfully disagree with the former and probably disagree with the latter as well.  A punch cap is, to me, almost the equal of a stitch cap in how and where it is worn.  A black or dark brown punch cap is a pretty darn formal shoe in the context of business dress and I think there are better options for what I think of as business casual.

Just my opinion.  It's worth what you paid me for it. :)


Where would you rank a double monks plain cap toe and a split toe design?
 
Last edited:

Shoes4play

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2014
Messages
698
Reaction score
3,493

peppercorn78

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
8,097
Reaction score
9,602

My father have worn uniform boots similar to these. They look good to me.
Those are awesome. I think AE should make something exactly like this. It's perfect!
I was just having a little fun. Of course I am all for showing the proper amount of respect for whatever situation you happen to be in, and one way to do so is by wearing appropriate attire. It does, however, make me glad that I am not bound by a particular dress code on a day-to-day basis especially in an environment where I would be judged by zealots who think they know more about what's appropriate and what's not than I do. I think if it's clear that you're showing the appropriate amount of respect for the situation you're in, then that should be good enough... generally speaking.
Cheerio and all that. I dunno, someone asked a question this morning specifically about Leeds with a suit and a bunch of guys answered. Then someone else asked about the formality level of carlyles and Cornwallis, then a bunch of guys answered. I don't think specific questions being discussed constitutes sticklerism, especially compared to how rigid folks were when I joined SF 5 years ago when Manton was ruling the roost here instead of in the White House. I was just a little surprised to see some pushback. I learned so much from getting schooled here in those days. Just like on the bandstand when I was a young musician. Maybe that's why I can't imagine others not taking the same level of interest. I have many "workplaces," but the biggest chunk of my professional life now takes place in a rather hippyish fancy private school in Manhattan. When I first started working there (fresh off a position in higher education), I wore odd jacket and trouser combos with tie, etc. I was given askance looks by other faculty, teased by students, and eventually taken aside and asked why I was "wearing suits" every day. Lol. So since then, it's been jeans and chinos with sport shirts. I still get to wear my sharper stuff (well the clothing items that my now larger belly doesn't preclude me from wearing) during private engagements and concerts. But anyway, we agree: it's all about being appropriately dressed. There's a reason why we think somethings a little off about black park aves with torn faded blue jeans, and it's all because of context created by these much-maligned "rules."
 
Last edited:

amphillips79

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
529
Reaction score
651
I think when we discuss rules of dress there are a myriad of factors to consider:

1. Traditional rules vs clothing style being worn. For example, am I wearing a traditional cut suit or a modern cut.
2. Industry/Environment. As others have pointed out, it really depends on situation though sometimes those rules can be broken particularly in light of the next item. Some rules shouldn't be though such as funeral attire.
3. An individual's personality and confidence level plays a huge part in what you can rock. I've seen some great suits in very conservative and traditional settings where the suit was a high quality modern cut rocking an Oxblood wingtip and no one even batted an eye because the person wearing the suit was so confident that no one even gave it a second thought.
4. If at a work environment, position/title really does matter but you should always dress for the job you want and not the job you have.
5. Time of day.

So, rules exist, but can easily be broken based on many factors.
 
Last edited:

St Hubbins

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2016
Messages
4,293
Reaction score
17,133

400


Got my $50 Strands in today :) pretty sure these are Walnut, but they are a lot darker than my last pair of Strands in the same color. Anyone else notice a variation in color between shoes like that? Also, what colo creams/polishes have you all experimented on Walnut with? Any pictures?


It's my understanding that Walnut in more recent times is darker with more orange tones than the previous lightish tan. And with anything, some prefer one over the other. I happen to like the newer look of it, such as my Madison Parks, but also wouldn't mind having a pair of the older, lighter Walnut for variety.

Those Strands look awesome for any price, but especially for $50. Congrats on that score!
 
Last edited:

quickonthetree

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2016
Messages
267
Reaction score
411
I don't know if I was looked down on or not but last Friday evening it was raining. I wore a charcoal Isaia suit with Black Shaker heights and thought it looked excellent considering the weather. Saturday I went with a charcoal pinstriped Brooks Brothers suit with black Park Avenues that I polished for 2 hours the night before and they were gorgeous. I know there are situations that call for formal by the book but I thought my Shakers looked as appropriate as the Park Aves did.
Since then Sunday was casual so it was a pair of tan Boulders all day. Monday was snuff Dundee 2.0's and today I went with Dark Chili Daltons featuring Gaurded Goods laces.
Not sure whether to go Walnut or Wingtip tomorrow. Maybe I'll wear Walnut Wingtips lol.
 
Last edited:

rumjt

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
503
Reaction score
660
I have them. They look pretty nice. Unfortunately, when I had mine refinished recently (screwed up the color because of my ignorance of the AE Conditioner Cleaner) the new burnishing left some darker marks that now highlight the creases. It doesn't look bad, but I would prefer they not be there. The color though, is much improved and looks closer to when I first got them.

Thanks for that. Helped me to pull the trigger on a pair of those.
 

rumjt

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
503
Reaction score
660
I think when we discuss rules of dress there are a myriad of factors to consider:

1. Traditional rules vs clothing style being worn. For example, am I wearing a traditional cut suit or a modern cut.
2. Industry/Environment. As others have pointed out, it really depends on situation though sometimes those rules can be broken particularly in light of the next item. Some rules shouldn't be though such as funeral attire.
3. An individual's personality and confidence level plays a huge part in what you can rock. I've seen some great suits in very conservative and traditional settings where the suit was a high quality modern cut rocking an Oxblood wingtip and no one even batted an eye because the person wearing the suit was so confident that no one even gave it a second thought.
4. If at a work environment, position/title really does matter but you should always dress for the job you want and not the job you have.
5. Time of day.

So, rules exist, but can easily be broken based on many factors.
IDK about you guys, but I'm diggin' this discussion. I feel like I've learned a lot and am still thirsty for more.
 

quickonthetree

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 3, 2016
Messages
267
Reaction score
411
I found all of the Bourbon Daltons. Someone must have a deal with an SA or they watch it non stop because a seller just posted like 12 pair of Bourbon Daltons in all different sizes. I'm trying to work a deal out on them as I'm not paying $250 for a shoe that cost $159.
 

BackInTheJox

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 6, 2011
Messages
5,028
Reaction score
13,398
In surgery for most of today, so unfortunately no walnut wingtip Wednesday for me. I don't think these are AE.

400
 

MattRiv

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2015
Messages
1,207
Reaction score
965
PSA for you big, wide footed types: There is a pair of brown shell Daltons being listed by our favorite retailer in 12 E. They are listed as NO WARRANTY of course, but look like they are 1st quality.
 

Middlife

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Messages
558
Reaction score
665
I don't think specific questions being discussed constitutes sticklerism, especially compared to how rigid folks were when I joined SF 5 years ago when Manton was ruling the roost here instead of in the White House.
I started stalking the forums about a year and a half ago and I remember someone posting Manton's streamlined 6 shoe wardrobe and thinking okay perfect, I'll just follow his advice and limit myself to only 6 pairs
laugh.gif


http://www.styleforum.net/t/338954/streamlined-shoe-wardrobe/0_30

This was a great starting point to help understand how to start putting together a rotation. Looking back at this now, I realize that I've broken some rules with my calf Merlot McAllisters as well as by wearing shell and suede outside of just winter/fall.
 

peppercorn78

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 7, 2013
Messages
8,097
Reaction score
9,602

I started stalking the forums about a year and a half ago and I remember someone posting Manton's streamlined 6 shoe wardrobe and thinking okay perfect, I'll just follow his advice and limit myself to only 6 pairs :laugh:

http://www.styleforum.net/t/338954/streamlined-shoe-wardrobe/0_30

This was a great starting point to help understand how to start putting together a rotation. Looking back at this now, I realize that I've broken some rules with my calf Merlot McAllisters as well as by wearing shell and suede outside of just winter/fall.


I think honestly once you've moved beyond:

Black Oxford
Brown Oxford
Brown or tan derby
Loafer

Then you're adding pairs simply because it's fun, not necessary, or you have occupational or seasonal needs based on climate of workplace. But, ain't nothing wrong with that! (Says a man with 24 pairs)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 85 37.4%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 87 38.3%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 24 10.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 35 15.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 36 15.9%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,459
Messages
10,589,500
Members
224,249
Latest member
bolithoine
Top