Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2016 - News, Pictures, Sizing, Accessories, Clothing, etc

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by watchidiot, Feb 12, 2016.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
  1. pmestrad

    pmestrad Senior member

    Messages:
    116
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2014
    Any thoughts on the northland moc in red? I plan to wear them informally with shorts. Most of my shorts are a shade of blue or navy which is why I think red would be a good fit. Fwiw I already have a pair of brown suede sperrys
     


  2. Uncle

    Uncle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    76
    Likes Received:
    37
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2016
    Location:
    NY/NJ Metro Area
    
    Agree with Neo. I am a perfect 10C in the 5 last and find the Randolf in 10 B to be spot on.
     


  3. smfdoc

    smfdoc Senior member

    Messages:
    2,392
    Likes Received:
    3,620
    Joined:
    May 25, 2015
    Location:
    Los Angeles. "Swimmin' pools; movie stars."
    Comparison of the shell Plain Toe Bluchers (PTB)

    I have been asked several questions so I wanted to compare the two shell cordovan plain toe bluchers offered by Allen Edmonds and Alden. Both are desirable shoes are remarkably similar in many respects. There are, however, subtle differences that could affect your purchase decision. First, an overview of the two shoes:

    Alden’s 990 #8 color, size 11 EEE

    Weight for the pair, 3 lbs. 8 oz
    Width 4.75 inches
    Channel stitched sole
    Split reverse welt
    Double oak sole, 12 mm thick
    Wheeled edge
    Retail price $694

    [​IMG]

    AE Leeds in burgundy, 12B

    Weight for the pair, 2 lbs. 11oz
    Width 4.5 inches
    Channel stitched sole
    Split reverse or storm welt
    Double oak sole, 11 mm thick
    No wheeling on the edge of the sole
    Retail price $650, used for this shoe is $175.

    [​IMG]

    Color: Alden uses #8 as the term for their color, which is the same as used by Horween. AE refers to theirs as burgundy. The exact shade of burgundy or #8 will vary in brighter lit rooms or outside. Both are susceptible to gradual lightening in color after exposure to the sun. Both shoes also are available in black.

    Finish: Externally, the shoes are quite similar and the feel of the shell is usually the same. The thickness of the tongue and walls of the Alden seems a tad thicker to the touch. Alden also supplies wheeling on the edge of the sole, a feature usually only found on the Independence line for AE. Other forum members recently were wondering why AE did not use wheeling on their cordovan shoes since this was the top of their line in cost. Alden on top or left image and AE on the other.

    [​IMG][​IMG]


    Construction: Both shoes are made of Horween leather, but AE uses the JR sole, which is known for its durability. Both use a 360 Goodyear welt, but the 990 also uses a side stitching as seen in the heel. Alden on top or left image and AE on the other.

    [​IMG][​IMG]



    Fit: The Leeds is built on the 511 last and Alden uses the Barrie last. Barrie is generally considered to run about ½ size large. I normally wear 11 EEE and the Leeds was returned as too tight. The 990 in 11 EEE from Alden fit really well and even allowed me to insert a thin sole insert for cushioning. AE provides the Leeds in the normal range of 6 to 16 and B through EEE. The 990 is available from size 8-13 and normally in C, D & E widths. However, some of the retailers will place an order for a group of shoes in a wider width, which is how I was able to locate EEE for myself. You will have to make calls and write emails to locate a dealer who can supply a wider width.

    Availability. Cordovan Leeds are made when they are ordered and the current delivery time is estimated to be 8 weeks on the website. AE is said to produce approximately 2000 pairs in all styles per day and Alden is a small fraction of this volume. I was fortunate and found a retailer with the 11 EEE in stock because of an earlier order. Problem solved. Had they been out, the retailer would need to submit an order for a small run in the larger widths. The factory would then hold the order until they were making a run of shell 990s and merge the two together. If the timing is off, one can literally wait 6-9 months for the delivery of such a special order.
    AE outlets coordinate their inventory and one location can determine if any shoes are available in their system. The stores and the outlets provide multiple locations for examining the shoes on a retail level. Alden is far smaller and their company stores are only located in SF, DC and Manhattan. Scattered retailers carry some shoes and I would recommend theshoemart.com as a great starting point. In my experience, you should make the purchase when you find the shoe. Shoes do go out of stock and it could be up to a year to replenish.

    I have tried both shoes and I went with the Alden for the simple reason that it fit when the Leeds did not. Both are excellent and make a great shoe. Shell continues to rise in price and is less available than some years back. One should get them when they find a deal or the right shoe, especially if choosing the Alden because of irregular availability.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016


  4. coolarrow

    coolarrow Senior member

    Messages:
    1,761
    Likes Received:
    1,358
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2012
    333 last FTW! [​IMG]
     


  5. ProfilaBinding

    ProfilaBinding Senior member

    Messages:
    1,791
    Likes Received:
    1,139
    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2016
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Jealous.


    Oh well, at least I have a solid 7-man rotation.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016


  6. ace13x

    ace13x Senior member

    Messages:
    2,411
    Likes Received:
    1,821
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2015
    I have the same exact pair. Got it them in April, and love them. As others have said, fear not the durability of the Dainite. I'm not that picky, though I generally prefer leather soles on most of my shoes, but on the Daltons they are totally appropriate. TOTAL KEEP IMO.

    Edit: Also, keep in mind the Sauks are on a different last. Another reason to keep if these fit really well.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016


  7. harlequin782

    harlequin782 Senior member

    Messages:
    518
    Likes Received:
    132
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2012
    It's wierd...i noticed no one here really shows love to the 333 last unless the shoe is a closed lace balmoral - and even then, typically the only acceptable 333 lasted shoe here is the Rutledge (occasionally some will react favorably to the University). But I noticed the only negative opinions of the 333 really only come as a reaction to the bluchers made on the last. (larchmont, flatiron, boca raton etc.) ...I never understood that. You would think that if the 333 last was unappealing in the blucher, it would likely be unappealing as a balmoral as well...but that doesn't seem to be the case...maybe theres a difference in fittment or something..go figure.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016


  8. ace13x

    ace13x Senior member

    Messages:
    2,411
    Likes Received:
    1,821
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2015
    I really like the subdued broguing on these and a few of the other older AE's.
     


  9. ace13x

    ace13x Senior member

    Messages:
    2,411
    Likes Received:
    1,821
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2015
    McT's for the win! Though your's look better than mine. Did you do something to them? or is it the lighting and amp?

    Edit: A little chilly for iced coffee in NYC today. no?
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016


  10. ace13x

    ace13x Senior member

    Messages:
    2,411
    Likes Received:
    1,821
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2015
    Tying in the cost of shell and @Dd1101 mentioning getting a pair of Dalton's for his wife? Possible fit?


    [​IMG]

    On the bay right now.
     
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2016


  11. naspratt

    naspratt Senior member

    Messages:
    959
    Likes Received:
    676
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2014
    
    When I first started looking to buy nicer (read: non-JM and CH) shoes, I was immediately attracted to round and almond-toed shoes. I liked the look of the Flatiron, but was wary of chisel toes, as they brought back painful memories of black bicycle-toed, rubber-soled, corrected-grain, and I wanted to get as far away from that as possible. I only bought the Rutledges because they were too inexpensive not to (and Earl talked me into it). Once I realized how well I liked the fit, the University was on deep discount. Sadly, the Flatiron was long gone. As far as the Larchmont, I like it better than the typical gunboat (if I'm getting something thick and heavy, I'd rather go over the top and get a budapester from Vass or Dinkelacker), but not as much as the Williams, which again, I was sadly too late for except in black.
     


  12. JLC2

    JLC2 Senior member

    Messages:
    121
    Likes Received:
    34
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2016
    It's seems as though the recommendation from this thread is to not use conditioner-cleaner on burnished shoes.

    I have the McAllister in merlot and the Strand in walnut - both are burnished.

    What is the new/current recommended approach to caring for these? Stick with lotion and light polish?

    They look great and I'd like to retain that as long as possible.
     
    Last edited: Jun 8, 2016


  13. Odd I/O

    Odd I/O Senior member

    Messages:
    1,027
    Likes Received:
    67
    Joined:
    Aug 17, 2009
    Has anyone ever had Allen Edmonds refuse to recraft/resole their shoes? And what reason did they give for turning down the request? I want to topy just the tip of my shoes to slow down the wear and was curious if this would be okay or not.
     


  14. RTD1

    RTD1 Senior member

    Messages:
    144
    Likes Received:
    69
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2015
    I wouldn't worry about the Merlot too much, just use the appropriate color polish and you should be fine.

    On the walnut, just understand that if you want to maintain the look, you'll need to use walnut polish on the main part of the shoe and brown on the burnished parts like the toe and seam.

    The main complaint has been with Bourbon, where the burnishing isn't simply burnishing, it's integral to the color of Bourbon and removing it leaves you with Walnut.

    Stay away from the AE conditioner cleaner though, unless you want to remove the old polish. The AE cream polishes have enough conditioner in them, there's no need for separate conditioning in most cases anyway.

    All shoes, burnished or not, will change color over time from exposure to the elements and application of polishes and other product. If you overuse product, you just hasten that process.
     


  15. M635Guy

    M635Guy Senior member

    Messages:
    2,606
    Likes Received:
    1,838
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2015
    Location:
    Cary, NC
    [​IMG]

    Please do that

    [​IMG]
     


Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by