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Alfred Sargent Handgrade - Pictures

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by clintonf, Feb 22, 2010.

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  1. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Shipped on Mon, arrived today: [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012
  2. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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  3. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    Wear these in good health. Should be careful with the pull tabs. See G&G thread.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012
  4. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

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    Just fantastic !!
     
  5. marburymadison

    marburymadison Well-Known Member

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    How does AS compare with C & J?
     
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  6. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    Those boots have one naughty shaft. Hopefully the pull tabs will last, several members have had theirs broken. Apparently shell doesn't last very well due to the tab's horizontal stitching, they become like metro ticket corners.
     
  7. culverwood

    culverwood Senior member

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    Those were in the G&G thread but no doubt the same principle applies to all manufacturers.
     
  8. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Hence why RM Williams has always put the pull tabs inside the boot heel spine.
     
  9. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    R.M Williams are really very solid and functional. Trickers does this too. Actually, I once asked for suede pulls, and they absolutely refused, on the basis that they would be too fragile. Leather does not take some types of pressure nearly as well as does, for example, nylon or silk. I really like Alfred Sargent boots, and wear them, but they are not really meant to be functional field boots.
     
  10. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Thanks guys.

    And thanks for the warning about pull tabs tearing. On the one hand, I've had a pair of calfskin AS Miller boots for a couple years now, and the pull tabs have held up well, despite my straining them so much I've ripped a couple pairs laces trying to get them on. And since these are blutcher boots with a generous amt of hooks, I think there's less strain on/off. On the other hand, Myron Glaser of Glaser Designs once showed me how shell -- for all its abrasion and puncture resistance -- is easy to tear once it gets a cut. And your pt about perforations makes sense, VRavio. So I'll try to be careful w/ them.
     
  11. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    M,

    Chances are the pull tabs on your calfskin boots were doubled over and reinforced with a hidden strap of nylon. Don't try folding cordovan....it can be done but it's not often pretty.
     
  12. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Hi DW, They were just a plain loop of calfskin. The only difference between the two is the stitching's a bit more widely-spaced on the cordovan, which is probably better given the possibility of tearing. Here's a couple pics of both. [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  13. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    M,

    Yes,I see that. I would have split and folded the calfskin, as I indicated. Oh well, different strokes, I guess.

    I just don't understand why they would stitch straight across...I would have stitched a curved "V", or, more likely, an inverted "V" (what I call a "gothic arch" pattern).

    The tab would not rip if done that way.
     
  14. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Exactly.... but as Mum used to say "Old dogs for hard roads and puppies for footpaths".
     
  15. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    Very interesting and helpful, DW. As always, I appreciate your wisdom.

    Do you think a single layer of shell cordovan sewn in an arch shape would not rip? How were the G&G boots that tore sewn? Doubled loops would definitely be strong. For tall boots, they'd be great. For short boots, I think they'd be more likely to catch on one's pant cuffs. But nylon reinforcement might be a good compromise.
     
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2012
  16. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    The G&G's were sewn straight across. Cordovan is really not all that strong in terms of tensile strength. But yes, I think the arch shape would have prevented ripping and since the stitch down of the strap is well below the topline on the Alfred Sargent's (I can't remember on the G&G), I don't see why a straight line of stitching was even contemplated. No reason...even aesthetically.

    Again, you can't really fold cordovan much less split it. I suppose you could back it with something of a similar colour and sandwich a reinforcing strip in-between--that might be the way I'd do it if I just had to have a straight line of stitching. .

    As far as folded straps go...they would be no more likely to catch your pant cuff than an unfolded one...unless the job was done with thick fingers.
     
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  17. NAMOR

    NAMOR Senior member

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    wow. these are bangin
     
  18. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    I saw this on the front page and instantly missed vox :sad:
     
  19. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    ^How did they remind you of Vox, B? I posted the shot of the loafer's sole, w/ you in mind. Did you get to the trunk show at Leffot last week?
     
  20. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

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    Looks like my AS Hunt Handgrades are nearing completion......:thumbs-up: [​IMG]
     
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