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Alfred Sargent Handgrade - Pictures

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by clintonf, Feb 22, 2010.

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  1. clintonf

    clintonf Senior member

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    You are correct, Clint. Happy Holidays to you as well. I hope to post up my new shoes soon.

    Look forward to seeing your new shoes. In fact, I believe that Groover suggested more and when I get some more funds together, I've got a few in my mind's eye.

    Haters gonna hate.

    all the best,

    Clint
     


  2. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well here they are - I went for the AS 48, added a medallion, and went for a red-brown colour. I couldn't be more impressed - so cheers for the inspiration.

    [​IMG]

    They're in a better class than any other shoes Ive handled - e.g. C&J, Vass, EG RTW. I'm not knowledgeable on construction but the look and feel of these shoes has to be experienced first hand. The leather is flawless, thick and supple; the colouring is rich and lustrous and brings out the grain and texture. The stitching is perfectly aligned and robust. The last and general shape is sleek without being delicate, a perfect balance front and back, and I especially like the low cut quarter. (the shoes also fit v well); and the soles are beautifully beveled and waisted and cut very close to the upper, making the shoes much sleeker than any other double-soled double monk I've seen.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    And Chay Cooper is a real gent.


    these are quite nice thro pity about the seam in the back the make a great shoe rather plain
     


  3. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    these are quite nice thro pity about the seam in the back the make a great shoe rather plain

    it's a personal preference due these are MTO.

    it's compareable to your seamless love.
     


  4. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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    it's a personal preference due these are MTO.

    it's compareable to your seamless love.


    Yeah, +1... I don't really get the fascination with a seamless back. Strange to say that a seam makes a great shoe plain. Who sees a seam? Who cares about it? Let's be real.
     


  5. cdmoore1855

    cdmoore1855 Senior member

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    Yeah, +1... I don't really get the fascination with a seamless back. Strange to say that a seam makes a great shoe plain. Who sees a seam? Who cares about it? Let's be real.

    He is obsessed with seamless shoes.
     


  6. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    He is obsessed with seamless shoes.

    we know that or should i say? we learned it the hard way... [​IMG]
     


  7. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    it's a personal preference due these are MTO.

    it's compareable to your seamless love.


    i somehow think he would not have a choice on HOW these were cut, but are these just sorta like the Vale from JLP, i guess adding the seam would make it less likely to be a dirrect copy od interlectual rights etc

    He is obsessed with seamless shoes.

    we know that or should i say? we learned it the hard way... [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     


  8. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    i somehow think he would not have a choice on HOW these were cut, but are these just sorta like the Vale from JLP, i guess adding the seam would make it less likely to be a dirrect copy od interlectual rights etc...
    i dunno either, though he doesn't care for construction options. in fact it's a very traditional british way to do it. [​IMG] for being a good sports on the seamless analogy.
     


  9. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    these are quite nice thro pity about the seam in the back the make a great shoe rather plain
    thank you. re: seam - I will just have to live with the plainness [​IMG] (note to self: stop walking backwards)
    .. if they called it 'Vale' or 'Chapel' maybe, but even then I doubt it. There are no IP rights on swept monks - double or single, with or without seams - and a tragedy for us all if there were. It'd kill bespoke and MTO for a start! As Fritzl suggests, it's prob an English thing. Waste not want not.
     


  10. luk-cha

    luk-cha Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    thank you. re: seam - I will just have to live with the plainness [​IMG] (note to self: stop walking backwards)


    .. if they called it 'Vale' or 'Chapel' maybe, but even then I doubt it. There are no IP rights on swept monks - double or single, with or without seams - and a tragedy for us all if there were. It'd kill bespoke and MTO for a start! As Fritzl suggests, it's prob an English thing. Waste not want not.


    lol, i guess i think it is these small details that make the difference esp when there is a premium paid

    but enjoy the shoes they are nice
     


  11. Burton

    Burton Senior member

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    lol, i guess i think it is these small details that make the difference esp when there is a premium paid

    but enjoy the shoes they are nice


    In the ranges in which AS competes this is the standard method of construction. EG & GG and the others use this similar method. I think these things are important to make sure we don't compare apples and oranges.
     


  12. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    these are quite nice thro pity about the seam in the back the make a great shoe rather plain

    Vass Monk back seam left, AS monk right:

    [​IMG]

    These back-seamed monks and a London 5 eyelet are the only Vass I have with this feature.
     


  13. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Luk I've looked at both the Vass and the AS monks more closely, and it appears to be in the nature of monks (the way the strap has to come over the upper) that the uppers must be made of at least 2 pieces of leather. And therefore at least 2 seams. Vass chooses to use 3 pieces - yes 3 - for the single monk upper, and places 3 seams - one at heel pictured, and one on each side. AS manages to make the upper with only 2 pieces of leather, and therefore 2 seams. Where they are joined is a question of aesthetics. In order to ensure the long unbroken line from toe to heel on the outer side of each shoe AS has place the joins at the heel and at the instep. (below) [​IMG] IMO this is a more elegant and leaner solution than Vass's 3 seams - much as I love the Vass.
     


  14. fritzl

    fritzl Senior member

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    Vass chooses to use 3 pieces - yes 3 - for the single monk upper, and places 3 seams - one at heel pictured, and one on each side.
    AS manages to make the upper with only 2 pieces of leather, and therefore 2 seams.
    IMO this is a more elegant and leaner solution than Vass's 3 seams - much as I love the Vass.


    i'm not sure, i can follow your description.
     


  15. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Vass chooses to use 3 pieces - yes 3 - for the single monk upper, and places 3 seams - one at heel pictured, and one on each side.
    AS manages to make the upper with only 2 pieces of leather, and therefore 2 seams.


    i'm not sure, i can follow your description.

    Vass uses a vamp and two quarters (inside and outside sections have their own quarter) = 3 pieces.

    AS does not use a separate quarter for the outside section. The outside goes through from toe to heel = 2 pieces.
     


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