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Alfred Sargent Exclusive Collection vs Crockett and Jones Handgrade

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by strictly-4-my-pimps, Nov 8, 2011.

  1. strictly-4-my-pimps

    strictly-4-my-pimps Active Member

    Messages:
    28
    Joined:
    May 31, 2011
    I am in the process of buying a new pair of brogues in either tan, chestnut, brown etc... I have narrowed my choices down to two pairs. One AS Exclusive collection Brogue named Hunt and C&J Clifford. I know a bit about the C&J hand grades reading the forums but I don't know anything about the AS Exclusive collection. How do they compare? Does anyone have AS Exclusives? Also the Clifford's retail for 425 pounds inc VAT while the Hunt's go for 365 pounds. Thats a considerable difference. Does this mean that the Clifford's are a step above the Hunt's or does that mean AS are a really good buy?

    Here are some pics:

    Alfred Sargent Hunt
    [​IMG]

    Crockett and Jones Clifford
    [​IMG]

    Finally what shoe should I buy based on 1. Quality 2. Looks?

    Thank you. Any feedback will be appreciated.
     
  2. onix

    onix Senior member

    Messages:
    3,847
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2009
    Most aspects are the same, including full leather lining, channeled soles. Some claim that C&J HG has better upper finish, while AS Exclusive has nicer fiddle waists. The most crucial part of choosing is fit; some shoes may look nice but fit horrible on certain feet.
     
  3. Verniza

    Verniza Senior member

    Messages:
    294
    Joined:
    May 30, 2011
    +1 to fit.

    If both fits well, follow your heart.

    Quality wise, I assume they are on par but I've yet to receive my AS exclusives yet so I can't really comment much.

    If it's of any importance to you, AS exclusives are AS's benchgrades.
     
  4. Liquidus

    Liquidus Senior member

    Messages:
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    Mar 7, 2009
    Location:
    San Francisco, California
    Are any AS lasts similar to the 337?
     
  5. strictly-4-my-pimps

    strictly-4-my-pimps Active Member

    Messages:
    28
    Joined:
    May 31, 2011
    Compared to Church's or Tricker's are the Alfred Sargent Exclusive range superior? Or are they about the same. My feeling is they may be superior, but this is subjective.
     
  6. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,880
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    Oct 26, 2009
    the sole and waist treatment is superior and the heel slightly higher on the AS. The clifford on the 337 looks a little sleeker to me, the AS 109 toe just a little blobby but I prefer the Hunt styling and colour. Otherwise I'd say get what fits. IMO of the 2 styles above go the AS
     
  7. onix

    onix Senior member

    Messages:
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    AS Exclusive is better than Church's (especially nowadays Church's). I never own a pair of Tricker's so can't comment on that front.
     
  8. bullswin

    bullswin Senior member

    Messages:
    467
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    Apr 16, 2011
    I know the OP didn't reference them, but just curious... where do Cheaney Imperial fall into this mix (especially relative to AS exclusive)?
     
  9. Northampton Novice

    Northampton Novice Senior member

    Messages:
    682
    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2010
    

    I have a pair of AS Ramsey in espresso and also a pair of Cheaney Imperial Holyrood in espresso bronze. Both are double monks and make for a good comparison between these two fine brands.

    The finishing on the AS is generally better and the presentation box, dust bags and complimentary Saphir was very nice in comparison to the Cheaneys which arrived in just a humble box. After some months of wear however I am finding the Cheaney to be ageing better and IMHO I find the Cheaney to be a sleeker shoe, I certainly do get complimented on them far more than the AS.

    The only thing I now prefer on the AS is their more conservative fiddle waist, it's less pronounced than the Cheaney which protrudes more fin like.

    Given the choice I would always buy C&J handgrade above AS exclusive. The choice between AS exclusive and Cheaney Imperial is more difficult and varies from model to model.
     
  10. le.gentleman

    le.gentleman Senior member

    Messages:
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    Jun 7, 2005
    Location:
    St. Paul, MN
  11. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Senior member

    Messages:
    836
    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2012
    Location:
    Tokyo
    I`ve been a C&J wearer almost since they came out, and recently was persuaded into the AS Handgrade. What a mistake. The AS look great new, but there is a huge problem - the lower part of the tongue on the inside is so thick and dry that it eats into the top part of my foot every time the shoe bends. Also, the leather on the AS looks great in the box, but is generally a drier leather and does not respond well to nourishing. After a few weeks wear the shoe drops in looks, and the discomfort for me started on day two.
     

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