ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SuitedDx, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. nickrut

    nickrut Senior member

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    The shoes on sale CAN be shipped to the US. Email them.
     
  2. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    Leffot, Wingtip (I think), Paul Stuart, and J. Crew carry some variation of AS shoes. The prices are comparable to those inclusive of VAT.
     
  3. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    How does AS exclusive measure up quality wise against vass? I know Vass are hand welted and AS are gemmed I assume. Also understand it's a bit subjective but i've got a pair of Vass that I really like but I am eying a pair or AS Exclusive Moore and would like some more info about quality.
     
  4. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    I am yet to have my first Vass delivered, expected around 20 March, but I own four pairs of AS Exclusives. Direct comparison not possible then but I am very satiesfied with the AS. A very good shoe at an attractive price. Just pull the trigger, you won't be disappointed.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
  5. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    I figure you will get a number of responses on the Vass thread so I will comment here. Construction will be the first thing with Vass being hand-welted and AS Goodyear but this issue has been discussed in numerous threads so assuming you are willing to control for these factors and look at other variables, I think they are pretty close.

    Vass makes a sturdier shoe with preferences for H/A/F soles and a substantial foundation. In contrast, AS makes a thinner, finer sole. Honestly for me, after this point, the rest seems a wash. Both leather calf uppers are good but I would give AS an edge with the finishing/burnishing. Stitching and construction of uppers are both good. Vass has a wider variety of styles and flexibility of design (which can be a double-edged sword) whereas AS makes very nice stock styles.

    Since my preference is for lighter (but not Blake-light) constructed shoes but still recraftable, in addition to availability, style, costs, ease of obtaining, and last shape (most important for me), my preference have been a couple of UK makers (Goodyear) for smart shoes and Alden (also Goodyear) for casual footwear. I think Vass is excellent but their Italian lasts just do not fit me as well as some UK/US makers. I accept the construction of the latter is not as substantial as handwelted shoes like Vass, but after taking all this into account, I still primarily choose other makers for my personal reasons which I stated eralier.

    You cannot go wrong with either brand and hopefully you will own a pair and decide which one fits your disires better.
     
  6. Swede66

    Swede66 Senior member

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    Last edited: Mar 1, 2013
  7. RogerP

    RogerP Senior member

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    DD - that was a thoughtful and informative response.
     
  8. dlind

    dlind Senior member

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    Thank you very much for your informative replies, fairly sure I will go with the AS as I will then have one of each and can compare.
     
  9. scurvyfreedman

    scurvyfreedman Senior member

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    I have the Charlton in Pinner suede with a dainite sole. I'm very fond. No photos yet, I'll try to take some if I wear them next week. They're part of the country collection, so AFPOS can ship them to the US. They have them in country calf and Pinner suede.
     
  10. nickrut

    nickrut Senior member

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    Well damnit...bought some Handgrade AS's but they don't fit. That's what I get for jumping at a deal and being aggressive with the sizing. BST here I come.
     
  11. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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  12. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    Thanks, hopes to provide some tempered answer.

    VR, wow! :). Also, excellent piece re DWFII; best wishes with the expansion.

    Oh, anyone own the Wilson? I'm curious to see in vivo pics. Anyone can comment on the 104 last? From measurements I received from sellers, they seem to run a little on the longer side compared to, say the 99.
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2013
  13. PhiloVance

    PhiloVance Senior member

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  14. dg626

    dg626 Member

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    Hi Everyone,

    I'm new to UK footwear, and am interested in purchasing AS Moore. As I understand, the Moore is available in Black, Cherry and Chestnut. I am mainly after a dark brown shoe, so was wondering if you would describe Moore Cherry being close to dark brown, burgendy or red. There are so many pictures on the internet, all taken under different lighting, so it is difficult to tell.

    I really like the colour of AS Hunt Antique Mahogony (dark brown to my eye), but not really after a wingtip design. I prefer the simplicity of the Moore, but afraid to pull the trigger as I am unsure of colour.

    Finally, in regards to sizing, I am Size 7 in Loake 1880 Strand (Capital Last). This shoe fits very well. Safe to say I'll be a size 7 in AS too?

    Thanks in advance!
     
  15. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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