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ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SuitedDx, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Anymore pictures of the Charlton?
     
  2. bearwithme

    bearwithme Member

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    +1
    If you ask, they'll also enable your account to see samples and subs which often go for quite a bit cheaper.
     
  3. Afinepairofshoes

    Afinepairofshoes Senior member

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    Yes, we will also be adding to this samples and subs area fairly regularly, so worth keeping an eye on it.
     
  4. Jmm722

    Jmm722 Senior member

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    Well with AFPOS sale I'm looking at AS Hunt wingtips. For sizing, I'm a a 9D in AE 65 and 333 last. Should I just go UK 8?
     
  5. Dembowski

    Dembowski Senior member

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    Hello,

    both last are great - they are very similar. However 742 in my case seems to be little bit smaller and due to this fact I prefer this one.

    Anyway you can not go wrong with any of them
     
  6. gyasih

    gyasih Senior member

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    Wilson and Charlton on their way to me, thanks AFPOS, especially Sarah.
     
  7. Topaze

    Topaze Well-Known Member

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    Quote: I've just been to a quite nice shoe store that stocks several AS models, so I had a chance to compare them.

    Regarding the fit: my knee-jerk reaction was to write, as some other forum members did above, that AS uses different letters to mark their shoe widths and that might have caused the problem. But then I realized it doesn't make sense: for AS, as well as Church's, Cheaney and many others, F is the standard width, unlike, for example, Crockett and Jones and EG where E is standard. So, unless you ordered a custom pair of AS with the E fitting (would that make it extra narrow?), you probably got a pair with F width, and are comparing it to other makers' (I guess C&J or EG?) E width, which makes sense. As for the fact that AS F width turned out to be wider than others' E, well, I don't really know what to say, except that it may depend on the last. I don't know if AS standard width is generally wider than that of C&J, for example, but I doubt it. Lasts, however, may make a lot of difference.

    As for the leather, I think it really depends on the batch. As I said, I had a chance to compare different models, and while many did not have those cracks (at least at first glance - it would be weird to start inspecting every pair carefully), at least one did. That was Ramsey, and I think there was another one as well, but I may be mistaken. My only conclusion is that if you don't have them right from the beginning or if there are not too many of them, you can probably avoid or fix the problem by using Renovateur. If those cracks are extensive, though, I'd avoid buying the shoes in the first place. When you buy in a store it's easy to check, and if you buy online I guess you can always ask the seller to check the shoes.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2015
  8. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    That seems like a huge pain in the ass when dealing with, what I would consider to be, a fairly high end brand. I'd expect that sort of thing with second quality AEs, but AS is leagues above that. It's been a while since I looked, but I was under the impression that AS was marching up towards the $1,000 price/quality point for their nicer offerings.
     
  9. Topaze

    Topaze Well-Known Member

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    Well, if it's any consolation, I've seen the same lines on a pair of St. Crispin's and EG Beaulieu. In the case of St. Crispin's I was actually told that they were veins and a hallmark of high quality handmade shoes, no less, but, frankly, I'm not totally convinced, especially since I have seen them on much cheaper industry-made shoes. I mean really cheaper - not like AS or anything like that, more like some beater shoes you'd buy at a shopping mall to walk to the grocery store and back.

    Aside from batch-to-batch variation, there can be some other reasons I guess. The leather may have simply dried out if the shoes have been on the shelf for ages and tried on from time to time. I suspect that's what may have happened to the pair of Beaulieu. Other than that, it can be simply the case that high quality of construction and finishing do not always go hand in hand with leather quality.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2015
  10. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Senior member

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    I always like to give my shoes a deep condition prior to the first wear. It seems to be a good policy in my experience. However, I don't buy (or wear) any shoes with that crazy burnishing which people seem to love - I'm not sure how those would hold up to a cleaning/condition.
     
  11. meister

    meister Senior member

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    All good advice.
     
  12. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Does anyone have good info for a size chart for conversion to US Sizes?

    If not, can anyone speak to how their tassle loafers fit compared to AE 5 lasted shoes?
     
  13. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    Ontario, Canada
    I am one size smaller in AS oxfords than the AE 5 last. If your AE5 is loose, and you prefer a snug fit (as a loafer), go 1.5 sizes.

    IMHO only, I have AE5 in 11E (too wide) and 11.5D (too long), and I am wearing 10UK in AS 104 and 99 lasts.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2015
  14. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    I can wear an AE 8.5D fine with laces. I have a few 8E's that are snug but comfy. I'd definitely want to go 8D/E for loafers for the snugness.
     
  15. scurvyfreedman

    scurvyfreedman Senior member

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    If you are ordering from AFPOS Sarah will give very good guidance based upon foot measurements. She will explain the process to you. She's never missed for me regardless of last. Some I wear 7.5UK others I wear 8UK.
     
  16. Topaze

    Topaze Well-Known Member

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    It is good advice, but I think it's in the same category as my father's "Don't buy suede shoes - they're difficult to care for". Which is true to some extent, and I must admit I'm still a bit reluctant when it comes to suede. In general, though, I think that by excluding shoes with burnishing, museum calf, mottled effect and so on, for fear that they might be too difficult to clean or condition, you do minimize maintenance, but also deprive yourself of some of the most stunning products out there.
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2015
  17. Macs

    Macs Senior member

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    Switzerland
    At the end of last week I got my shoes back from AS.
    They are a pair of Wildsmith Brunswick in suede and were manufactured by AS.
    After a year of use they desperately needed a resole (I had a hole in the left sole showing the cork, quite strange after such a short time), so I sent them in to AS asking for a full resole with oak bark tanned soles and two rows of brass nails at the toe, plus I asked for replacement laces for this pair and for another pair I own.
    Everything went smooth and the final result is top quality, I am very happy and will keep shopping AS in the future.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. eljimberino

    eljimberino Senior member

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    Fremantle.
  19. scurvyfreedman

    scurvyfreedman Senior member

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    I chose the Hannover b/c I think casual shoes/boots should be brown and not black, but that's personal preference. I also liked the country grained leather rather than smooth leather for boots. I've become a bit of a texture-fan. B/w my balmoral boots with suede uppers, suede NST Charlstons, and natural grained water buffalo slip-ons, I reserve smooth leather for dress shoes.
     
  20. Bahljs

    Bahljs Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    Hey all, looking to scoop these up for some personal wear. I heard somewhere that Harrods was made by AS, is this true? These look very well made. Thanks for any input on this!
     

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