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ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SuitedDx, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    Ontario, Canada
    Planning a trip to New York in March, and wonder if anyone has store recommendations on who is selling Alfred Sargent shoes. I am aware of Leffot (may not carry them anymore) and No Man Walks Alone. What about the big department stores? Anything else?

    Appreciated.
     
  2. Fred G. Unn

    Fred G. Unn Senior member

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    Paul Stuart has a few. They have lots of makers so you'll have to sort them out, but I saw a great Alfred Sargent single monk there yesterday. (Not on the PS website unfortunately.) More of their "Made in England" shoes are by C&J, and the much higher priced shoes are G&G, but there were a few AS there.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Schweino

    Schweino Senior member

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    Location:
    Netherlands
    X-post from the shoe damage thread:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    From left to right:

    AS Miller (antique oak calf & espresso suede)
    Herring Moriarty by AS (black calf & suede)
    Herring Moriarty by AS (pine calf & milkshake suede)
     
    2 people like this.
  4. NickCarraway

    NickCarraway Senior member

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    Brooks Brothers (next door to Paul Stuart, 346 Madison) has several AS-made shoes under the Peal & Co. brand. Most are on the 87 last.

    I'd you look on the BB website and select the Peal & Co. Collection, you can generally identify an AS shoe by the elongated PEAL & CO font on the heel pad. In comparison, Peal shoes made by Crockett & Jones will have PEAL & CO in a square typeface.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. 02///M3

    02///M3 Senior member

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    Alright resident AS experts - anybody know the model name and/or last of these two chukka boots? Unfortunately all I have to go on are the pictures, but I'm fairly positive they are AS. Thanks in advance.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. DinSko

    DinSko Member

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    I think that the first one is this: http://www.pediwear.co.uk/alfred-sargent/products/5984.php. A discontinued model so the uk7 and 9 on the pediwear site might be last pairs avalible.

    Can't help you with the suede chukkas.
     
  7. 02///M3

    02///M3 Senior member

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    Thanks @DinSko. Looks like you're right. Unfortunately I'm generally a 10.5UK. If anyone knows what the suede one is don't be shy. I'm desparately looking for a snuff suede
    chukka on a last somewhere inbetween the C&J Chiltern (too round) and the Tetbury (too sleek).
     
  8. Afinepairofshoes

    Afinepairofshoes Senior member

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  9. DinSko

    DinSko Member

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    Funny I didn't recognice the bexhill, I have that one in country grain. Great pair, and with free shipping, free trees and 10% off it's a no-brainer.
     
  10. 02///M3

    02///M3 Senior member

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    Thanks @Afinepairofshoes. I thought it might be those. Can you (or @DinSko) comment on the fit of the 87 last? It looks pretty sleek/elongated in pictures, but I think I read that it's somewhat wide with a pretty round toe. Any experience with how it compares to the 89 last? Thanks and sorry for hijacking the thread with this. Promise to post pictures if I do pick them up!
     
  11. Afinepairofshoes

    Afinepairofshoes Senior member

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    Our pleasure, I have the 89 last in a chukka, and I find this quite generous in the width, whereas the the 87 is a neater fitting last, but considered to be standard. The 87 is used across the AS Country range in the Hannover, Cambridge and Bexhill and is a really nicely balanced last in my humble opinion. Perfect for this boot to be sleek, but not too sleek. Hope this helps.
     
  12. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    Hey guys,

    Will the 109 last accommodate a low instep?
     
  13. labravajazz

    labravajazz Senior member

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    Well, I do have a pair here on 109 but I don't know if I am high or low instep, have no idea on how to tell!
    But I have a question in case anyone can answer
    These are Aldwych on 109 last which is handwritten inside shoes
    My question is just because I am going to list them on B and S can anyone tell me are these double leather soles or HAF?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Topaze

    Topaze Well-Known Member

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    OK, I'm getting conflicting reports on this so I'll just ask here.

    Can anyone tell me how AS exclusive models (right now I'm specifically interested in Armfield) actually age/hold up? I know most of them look beautiful in pictures and probably in the box as well. I'm not questioning construction quality either - I'm sure it's extremely good for the price. What I want to know about is the leather quality. I have only one model and, although it looked stunning when new, and still looks very beautiful thanks to the design, construction etc., I can't help but notice that the leather AS used was a bit dry in the first place and started looking somewhat noticeably worse with wear. This does not have to be like that - I have shoes from other manufacturers that, for all the small nicks on the leather and the creases they developed with wear, look perhaps even more attractive than when I bought them, in a way. I've read some other reports that AS has this issue. On the other hand, there are quite a few happy customers.

    So, those of you who have had their AS Exclusive shoes for a long time now, can you share your experience? How do your shoes look like now, assuming you've worn them more or less regularly?
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2015
  15. labravajazz

    labravajazz Senior member

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    Just fwiw the shoes in previous post are some years old and they are not even premium model but have worn very well, still look great. One thing I wonder is about the different levels of AS, I know there is exclusive etc, but how can you tell which is which? I know some have size and last in a little oval inlay like Edward Green.
    I have one other pair of AS that has regular printed size on the inside wall and these in the previous photos above have hand written size and lst on the inside wall? Anyone know? Both my pairs have worn Every bit as well as CJ, JL, EG - btw premium models in general don't necessarily wear any better than standard models but just have finer details and possibly more refined fit IMO
     
  16. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    AS Exclusive, IMHO, is above normal benchgrade C&J, but below EG.

    The AS uses great leathers, and the attention to the waist and sole (closed channel, narrow fiddleback waist) is incredible. All of this is handwork.

    If they have open channel stitches in the sole (like C&J or Herrings by AS) then they are one grade lower.
     
  17. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I have some of the oldest exclusives (5-6 yrs old) and perhaps the very first pair of hand grades (an experimental pair) -- each worn maybe 130-150 times -- and they're all doing great. I'd agree w/ MDeK's comparisons above. Wish I'd ordered a couple more MTO's when they were still doing one-offs.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2015
  18. Topaze

    Topaze Well-Known Member

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    Actually, the 1966 line made for Herring by AS has channeled soles. My shoes (Drake) definitely do. Those models are priced even higher than regular AS exclusives.
     
  19. MDeKelver

    MDeKelver Senior member

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    There are two lines at Herrings, and that 1966 line is very very nice true. How do you like the 1966 last?
     
  20. Topaze

    Topaze Well-Known Member

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    Well, at that time I was also considering Moore in Cherry, but chose Drake because of the color (to me, oxblood looks both richer and more conservative), design (Drake has less broguing) and the overall shape. They're very similar, but 1966 last looked decidedly softer to me, with smoother lines. Still, it's a rather sharp-looking last. It also seems to accommodate slightly wider feet nicely (only available in F fitting, though). In fact, if I was trying hard to find fault with the last, this is a point I'd use. I think Carmina, when making the Rain last, somehow did a better job at creating a last that nicely accommodates slightly wider feet and has a sleek chiseled toe. There is a bit more harmony in how Carmina's Rain looks, in other words. That's, of course highly subjective.

    Still, Drake is a stunning shoe, and I really love it.
     
    Last edited: Feb 27, 2015

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