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ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc.

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Hoping someone can help me. I've been searching high and low for years for a pair of dark brown oxfords in their 109 F last, and I can't seem to find it. Can anyone assist me or point me in the right direction? I've tried Carminas, C&J Connaught, TLB Mallorca's Artista range, and nothing fits my foot as perfectly as the 109 F last does.
 

LPMIII

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Have you tried emailing AS and asking if they have any in stock? I know they've sold seconds through email before.
 

dukenukem4ever

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I don't think they make the dark brown versions anymore unfortunately. Also Herring Shoes (I think their version is called CHARLES II it's made by Alfred Sargent) might be your best bet, they have a Armfield version that is 109 last and multiple sizes. Have a look at them.
 
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I don't think they make the dark brown versions anymore unfortunately. Also Herring Shoes (I think their version is called CHARLES II it's made by Alfred Sargent) might be your best bet, they have a Armfield version that is 109 last and multiple sizes. Have a look at them.
I thought of that, but as I understand it—albeit there’s still more I’d like to know about the differences—Herring’s Charles II isn’t on the same level quality-wise as AS Exclusive. For instance, they don’t use oak bark soles on the Charles II. Do you know of any other differences between the two? The leather quality, stitching + finishing, etc?
 

dukenukem4ever

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Other than non oak bark soles + open channel stitching, comparing the two side by side (I have armfield and Charles II) i would say both are beautiful beautiful beautiful shoes. I love my charles II shoes btw they were cheaper and leather quality subjectively is same (as far as i know, it is manufactured by Alfred Sargent, they are using the same materials for the upper, only the leather soles are not closed channels).

Since AS no longer makes Dark Brown 109F armfields, your best bet is the Charles II which honestly i would not say is a step below, simply just different finishing decisions (leather sole not being oak bark i guess and open channel stitching and no swan neck detail).
 

Schweino

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Hoping someone can help me. I've been searching high and low for years for a pair of dark brown oxfords in their 109 F last, and I can't seem to find it. Can anyone assist me or point me in the right direction? I've tried Carminas, C&J Connaught, TLB Mallorca's Artista range, and nothing fits my foot as perfectly as the 109 F last does.
You might be in luck if you're a size 8:
 

Luigi_M

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^ Nice find!
But, didn't Armfields have a closed channel sole?
 

RonnyK

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^ Nice find!
But, didn't Armfields have a closed channel sole?
Yes, the Exclusive range have oak barked soles with closed channel. I have seen subs of the Exclusive range with this kind of sole, I assumed they noticed some imperfection and did not finalize the shoe with the more expensive sole. Not sure, but that would be my guess here.For that price I would by them right away even if they are subs.
 

brotherender

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Moore today. Lovely hue brought up even more by the greenery around. How I wish I were able to have them in oak...

On another note, AS seems to have restarted their production for Wildsmith sold by Herringshoes. Two models on their website scream quality. I hope it's the beginning of exclusive resurrection even if on different lasts.

IMG_20201124_141624.jpg
 

LThomsen

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New to this thread. How do AS compare in terms of fit, materials and finishing to G & G and EG?
 

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