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ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc.

George Mason

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AFPOS was the one and only source for my five pairs of AS.
I frankly cannot understand the marketing politic of AS, which now is apparently only selling its shoes through the Bowen shops and with that brand - except for a few pairs which still sport the AS label.
I did not check their quality though.
I'm puzzled by AS, too. Other than a few limited models that can be obtained via Herring (I know nothing of Bowen), it seems impossible to buy AS retail. Buying direct from the AS website looks like something right of the antiquated early days of internet commerce...
 

clee1982

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yup, the only thing I can think of is might be AFPOS did too many discount?
 

Luigi_M

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I'd not say that the discount politics of AFPOS are the culprit.
Herring Shoes and Pediwear too (along with other retailers) used to have a good selection of AS, and now none of them keeps the brand anymore.
Bowen is the new owner of Alfred Sargent and I guess they dictate this politic.
Pity :-(
 

JUAN MANUEL

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I'm puzzled by AS, too. Other than a few limited models that can be obtained via Herring (I know nothing of Bowen), it seems impossible to buy AS retail. Buying direct from the AS website looks like something right of the antiquated early days of internet commerce...
I can't understand AS, with clear pricing policies independent retailers are very helpfull. I am sure that there are few people that can be as accurate in "remote" sizing advice as Sarah from AFPOS.

For the exact product I rather buying from independent retailers than directly from the factory, even if the price is a tad higher.
 

ducatiti

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This is the BB version of Alfred Sargent's Bexley model in the 87 last. At one point BB was selling them for double the cost of what British retailers (such as A Fine Pair of Shoes) were selling them. I also think they were slightly modified by AS for BB, and some comments from customers on the BB website indicated displeasure.

I have a mahogany version of the Bexley purchased from AFPOS, and love them - a great casual chukka that can dress up a bit. Wish AS still sold to retailers...
Thanks for the info.. First pair of AS and not really familiar with the brand. How does it compare to C&J in terms of retail price and value? I noticed that waist is slim though.
 
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gmehra

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I can't understand AS, with clear pricing policies independent retailers are very helpfull. I am sure that there are few people that can be as accurate in "remote" sizing advice as Sarah from AFPOS.

For the exact product I rather buying from independent retailers than directly from the factory, even if the price is a tad higher.
just curious why you prefer buying from a retailer over the factory?
 

JUAN MANUEL

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just curious why you prefer buying from a retailer over the factory?
In general I believe that cutting the middleman is not always the best for any industry or trade. Retailers contribute to the well being of the market.

In this specific case and in my experience in shoes with AFPOS, Herrings, Pediwear and Robinson:

- Retailers have experience with several brands and can help with sizing advice using other brand size and lasts as reference. I.E. I have requested side by side pictures of Loake Aldwych in 10.5UK to compare with Trickers Stow in 10.5UK.
- Retailers are more flexible. I had requested several times "delay shipment" since I travel a lot and there was nobody in my house who can recieve the parcel. I have also requested some retailers to spare some shoes for a couple of weeks.
- When dealing with independent retailers you can get access to the owner if is needed.
- The people that work in retailers are generally more friendly.
- I like to put my money where it feels welcome.

Cheers
 

clee1982

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I think factory direct can be good idea, if you know what you want (this shoe this size, just want cheapest possible, ship to me right away), otherwise retailer does provide value in flexibility and I find retailer more willing to take stuff back.
 

monkey66

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I raised this on the Trickers thread but didn't see this thread until now. I have this lovely pair of AS Exclusive Derby's. I bought them on eBay several years ago much earlier in my journey. I really love them and are a mainstay of my rotation. Would be interested in anyone recognises them and can share some information. The only marking inside is handwritten "DARREN JOHNS". The shoes were flat brown and I have added the burnishing with polish. The leather is butter soft and remarkably good condition a couple of years in. Fiddled spine and Dainite sole.
View attachment 1436851
View attachment 1436852

View attachment 1436853
Bump again if anyone can shed some light?
 

obc28.5

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Bump again if anyone can shed some light?
Likely an MTO, the name inside is likely the original owner, as well as the lack of size figures or model name. AS Exclusive line typically has single oak bark leather soles with hidden channels- not the split reverse welt and rubber dainite of your model, which suggests a more "country" style last. You mention a "fiddled spine"- could you provide a pic of said, it is not usual to do that with a dainite sole, and the side profile suggests a normal waist, rather than the beveled swoop you would see on a fiddle back construction.
 

Trusar

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I would be very careful with Saphir cognac because it has quite a lot of red pigment in it. In the beginning I would only use several thin layers of neutral shoe cream. I would wait on using coloured cream until the leather isn't so dried out anymore . When new, these quality leathers have a tendency to absorb anything you will put on them so I would be careful with pigmented creams. AS doesn't put a heavy finishing on its shoes but you need to go slowly on them in order to develop a nice patina.
What happens if I put coloured creams on while the leather is still thirsty? Will it not develop a patina?
 

wurger

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just wondering is it better to close the lace v gap before putting the lasted shoe tree in? This way the shape of the shoe molds to the lasted shoe tree?
Doesn't make a difference, trees pushs back the crease behind the toes, that's about it.
 

clee1982

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yup, it's not like you're re lasting your shoe every night...
 

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