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ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SuitedDx, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. beargonefishing

    beargonefishing Distinguished Member

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    I concur with most others. I'm 13US and wear 12UK in AS.
     

  2. WilYa

    WilYa Senior Member

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    I was in the London Bowen store recently and I asked the same question. Here are the answers from the French side:
    1. AS branded shoes will always be there but there will be no lines differentiation, meaning future AS shoes will be the ones that have been offered by Bowen (high end models are almost identical to The Exclusives anyway)
    2. AS is going strong, especially in France, remember there is the one and only AS store in Paris.
    3. Handgrade is still doable directly with AS. They even had a trunk show in the Paris store recently. I got the contact card of the AS manager for handgrade order. Just ask me if you need this infos.
     

  3. Luigi_M

    Luigi_M Senior Member

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    British shoes in gallic sauce?? :confused:
     

  4. masernaut

    masernaut Senior Member

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    Thank you for the feedback. I have two pairs of AS that were made for Hardy Amies (Cambridge and Ramsey) and both are labelled as 9 UK and fit like a 9.5 US. The pairs made for JCrew are generally labelled 7.5 UK / 8 US or 10 UK / 10.5 US.

    I can't imagine AS uses different lasts when making footwear for third-party brands, so it leaves me very confused.
     

  5. UNOAIMX

    UNOAIMX Senior Member

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    @WilYa your No 3. Regarding Alfred Sargent Handgrades still being available thru direct order? That’s ground breaking news, can you confirm again because we hear again and again from AFPOS and others even a few months back that Handgrades are dead and not coming back, please post the quoted managers name here for handgrade orders, I’m sure a lot of folks would be interested
     

  6. othertravel

    othertravel Distinguished Member

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    Why don't we start a gmto if this pans out?
     

  7. WilYa

    WilYa Senior Member

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    @UNOAIMX @othertravel
    sorry guys don't get too excited...I cannot confirm and also I am not convinced yet.
    That was at least what the SA said to me but I have concerns if she truly understands the Handgrade line. Maybe she just meant we could do MTO directly with AS, what we have to do is to call up one of the Thierry brothers who is UK based. I will PM you the number if needed.
     

  8. brotherender

    brotherender Active Member

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    [QUOTE="I can't imagine AS uses different lasts when making footwear for third-party brands, so it leaves me very confused.[/QUOTE]


    Occasionally AS has used custom lasts in their production for other retailers. Examples are, to my knowledge, Cleverley or Foster and Son or Sid Mashburn.
     

  9. jssdc

    jssdc Senior Member

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    Well if the business is as strong as the SA claims then I certainly understand why they got out of their own game. Consider the shoe below, which is more or less a Ramsey:

    upload_2019-1-29_21-21-48.png

    Double monk. Could be the 99 last (although Bowen doesn’t detail). The sole looks more like C&J main line than AS Exclusive (not a particularly close waist for eg). No bottom picture so no way to tell if the channels are closed. And with the above differences one would have to take something of a leap to assume the leather quality was the same.

    This one is on sale for €476. Regular price (currently in black and tan) is €600. So their sale price is similar to the Ramsey’s £430 non-sale price at AFPOS or Pediwear, but the latter come with trees and are a demonstrably higher quality product.

    Again, a damned shame they got out of marketing their own shoes, and I wish that I had bought more than the four pairs I own (fucking fiscal probity), but I certainly understand where they’re coming from.
     

  10. mxgreen

    mxgreen Senior Member

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    It depends on the last. I am US12D. I wear UK11E in AS 109 (Armfield) and 87 (Cambridge) lasts. I wear UK11.5E in AS 99 (Ramsey).

    You are correct about how the AS for JCrew shoes are labeled. But, in trying the shoes on I paid attention to the UK size and ignored the US size.
     

  11. masernaut

    masernaut Senior Member

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    That makes sense then! A little weird - but helps answer my mystery.


    [/QUOTE]

    I am the same size in 87 + 99. Thanks for all the feedback. It helps me to take a risk and buy a 8.5 UK pair and hope that it fits my 9.5 US foot :)
     

  12. Reiver

    Reiver Senior Member

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    Has anyone experienced these boots? I believe they are made by Alfred Sargent for Tredders shop.

    https://www.tredders.com/mens/tredders-20094-2-boot-brown.html

    56A7FC95-FC82-45CF-A274-9CEAFC7EDAB3.jpeg

    I am considering these for proper outdoor use and would think they should be up to the job.

    I’m also interested in the Alfred Sargent Kelso Veldtschoen boots if anybody here has any opinions on them.

    Thanks for any advice
     

  13. stephenaf2003

    stephenaf2003 Distinguished Member

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    Really like these Navy Cambridge’s
    696830FC-3346-48EE-A453-D2CE16961541.jpeg

    E138C0A2-E92F-40B3-8E24-3F923652BB62.jpeg
     

  14. gzheydey

    gzheydey Member

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  15. flylikeneagle

    flylikeneagle Senior Member

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